Dual way LED Circuit board

Thread Starter

abhinavguptakorba

Joined Feb 16, 2021
3
Hello everyone.
Greetings

My Name is Abhinav. I am very much unaware of circuit boards but have a huge interest in LED circuits. I want to prepare DRL cum indicator lights for my car. What I want is two different set of colour LED'S running on one single board. White LED'S for DRL and Amber LED for Indicator flasher. DRL LED'S should be ON all the time but when i turn on Side indicator white LED should go off and amber should start blinking as it will be connected to old indicator wiring of the car. When i turn off the indicator the DRL LED'S should turn on again. Please help me with simple method to do it with diagrams and the bare minimum components i will be needing for the job. I plan to use 3 watt white LED'S for DRL. Attached is the pic of LED'S i plan to use on Aluminium plate that will work as heat sink.

Please Pardon my knowledge on the subject and help me to build this thing. Any help is highly appreciated.
Thanks and Regards
Abhinav
 

Attachments

Thread Starter

abhinavguptakorba

Joined Feb 16, 2021
3
Thank you PowellRog for your promt reply but the video link that you posted is about changing the bulb from regular filament type to LED bulb. My question was about developing a complete new LED circuit board with two colour LED diodes and wiring them in such a way that White DRL LED'S should be ON all the time but when i turn on Side indicator white LED should go off and amber should start blinking. When i turn off the indicator the DRL LED'S should turn on again. Kindly suggest the wiring for this scenario.

Thanks and Regards.
Abhinav
 

LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
502
Daytime Running Lights require substantial POWER to be seen during the Daytime.
Using White LEDs, this is probably going to require ~15 Watts total LED Power per side.
Switching to Yellow/Amber requires using both Red and Green LEDs at the same time.
Then at Night, with the Headlights on, the Yellow/Amber Lights must come back on, but at a lower output level.
So, the White DLRs must turn off, and stay off, during Turn-Signal operation, AND,
Emergency-Flasher operation, AND,
anytime the Headlights are manually turned on.

This can certainly be done,
but it depends on how much money and time you have to throw at it.
Right now, I won't spend the 6 to 8 hours to design this for you, for free,
maybe some other day when I have plenty of time to kill.

LEDs MUST HAVE Current-Regulation, so that's 4- 2-Amp Current-Regulators, minimum.
The Current-Regulators may be "Switch-Mode",
which can be very compact, but is more complex and expensive,
or they can be "Linear", which is more simple,
but requires bulky Heat-Sinks and large Power-Resistors for each Regulator.
NONE of this can be mounted in the Engine Compartment, it is just too hot to be practical.

Then you need to PWM the Regulated Current from each Regulator,
in order to switch each one on-and-off, and for brightness control.

Then, there is the matter of making your car's Body-Computer,
and Turn-Signal-Flasher-System,
and Emergency-Flasher-System,
happy about the changes in electrical loads that will be detected,
so that you don't get any Warning-Lights on your Dash.

You will need a proper Wiring Schematic for your car to begin the design process.

A single "Star-LED" is too focused, and will not illuminate your car's entire Turn-Signal-Lens evenly,
it will create a ~1 to ~2 inch "spot" right in the middle of the Lens,
unless you build "groups" like this ...........
.
.
.LED Bulb Replacement Structure 1 .PNG
 

Thread Starter

abhinavguptakorba

Joined Feb 16, 2021
3
Thankyou LowQCab for your descriptive reply and thanyou for giving your precious time for my query. I also wanted to know if there is a relay that i can hook to both these LEDS in such a way that i when i run current to amber LED, current to white LED'S gets disconnected and when i turn of the current to amber LED current goes back to white LED,S.
 

eetech00

Joined Jun 8, 2013
2,349
Daytime Running Lights require substantial POWER to be seen during the Daytime.
Using White LEDs, this is probably going to require ~15 Watts total LED Power per side.
Switching to Yellow/Amber requires using both Red and Green LEDs at the same time.
Then at Night, with the Headlights on, the Yellow/Amber Lights must come back on, but at a lower output level.
So, the White DLRs must turn off, and stay off, during Turn-Signal operation, AND,
Emergency-Flasher operation, AND,
anytime the Headlights are manually turned on.

This can certainly be done,
but it depends on how much money and time you have to throw at it.
Right now, I won't spend the 6 to 8 hours to design this for you, for free,
maybe some other day when I have plenty of time to kill.

LEDs MUST HAVE Current-Regulation, so that's 4- 2-Amp Current-Regulators, minimum.
The Current-Regulators may be "Switch-Mode",
which can be very compact, but is more complex and expensive,
or they can be "Linear", which is more simple,
but requires bulky Heat-Sinks and large Power-Resistors for each Regulator.
NONE of this can be mounted in the Engine Compartment, it is just too hot to be practical.

Then you need to PWM the Regulated Current from each Regulator,
in order to switch each one on-and-off, and for brightness control.

Then, there is the matter of making your car's Body-Computer,
and Turn-Signal-Flasher-System,
and Emergency-Flasher-System,
happy about the changes in electrical loads that will be detected,
so that you don't get any Warning-Lights on your Dash.

You will need a proper Wiring Schematic for your car to begin the design process.

A single "Star-LED" is too focused, and will not illuminate your car's entire Turn-Signal-Lens evenly,
it will create a ~1 to ~2 inch "spot" right in the middle of the Lens,
unless you build "groups" like this ...........
.
.
.View attachment 230647
I've already designed a 2-DRL with PWM drive similar to the description in this thread. Works great. Design is not too difficult.
The industry does sell wht/amber bi-color 1157 bulbs.
 

LowQCab

Joined Nov 6, 2012
502
Maybe the definitions of some terms are in order .........
DRL, or Daytime Running Lights, generally refers to using the "High-Beam" Filament of a Headlight Bulb
running at, or around, ~10-Volts, instead of ~12 to ~14 Volts.
This Light Level, even though reduced from its normal power, is still a serious amount of Light.

This amount of Light is not even remotely available from generic LED 1157 Bulb Replacements.

It would appear that abhinavguptakorba is wanting to change his Turn Signals into DRLs by
installing High-Power, ~3-Watt, "Star-LEDs".
Which is a very cool idea ........
I personally spent quite a bit of time and research into figuring out how
this could be done several years ago, and it's certainly NOT as easy as adding a couple of Relays.

For High Power LEDs you MUST HAVE Active-Current-Regulation,
whether Switch-Mode, or Linear-Mode,
and you MUST HAVE adequate Heat-Sinking for the LEDs as well.
So, if you are going to design Active Current Regulators,
the Relays become silly and redundant,
since it is very easy to add that Relay Switching Functionality to the Current Regulator Circuitry.

Here are some Ideas ...........
.
.
.LED Multiple Current Source 1 .PNGFade Up Fade Down .png3A 50V Current Source .pngLED Power Supply System 2 .png
 

PowellRog

Joined Feb 11, 2021
6
Thank you PowellRog for your promt reply but the video link that you posted is about changing the bulb from regular filament type to LED bulb. My question was about developing a complete new LED circuit board with two colour LED diodes and wiring them in such a way that White DRL LED'S should be ON all the time but when i turn on Side indicator white LED should go off and amber should start blinking. When i turn off the indicator the DRL LED'S should turn on again. Kindly suggest the wiring for this scenario.

Thanks and Regards.
Abhinav
Sorry, I didn't get it right the first time
 
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