That I recall, I've been lucky. I never run across the "330" type but always "33". But, good to keep in mind.Right. Note, for low values, e.g., 33pF, the "zero" may be omitted. So, 33 pF could be labeled 33 or 330.
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/caps.htm
John
Thanks everyone. I was sorting my parts bin, and came across these. So are you telling me what I have in my bin may actually be 330pF? I have no way to check them. Just wanted to make sure they wind up in the right cabinet drawer.I have a lot of capacitors around here that are marked 330 that are actually 330pF. That is why I own one of these:
aade.com
There's a current standard for capacitor marking?I agree. When it will make a difference, check -- not unlike confirming the fuel in your airplane. Standards change, and you can never be absolutely certain whether something is labeled according to the most current standard.
John
Good idea. Yes, I have a 20Mhz oscilloscope. Since I'm just now getting started back on electronics and getting my workbence in order, I may check this later. But I think I could use t=RC at which V=70% of peek to confirm this value. Or I could do it by reactance measurements using X=1/(2piFC).You have lots of ways to check them, depending on what you have available. Do you have an oscilloscope? If so, then make a little RC circuit using 1MΩ resistors and measure the time constant. If you have some basic digital parts then you can make any number of oscillator circuits that go into a frequency divider with enough stages to blink an LED as a slow enough rate for you to visually tell the difference between 1Hz and 10Hz, for example.