I'm gonna try and make this short and quick because this is the third time I write it as every time I try to correct something I can't bring the cursor back where i need it. I have a dewalt dw255 type 2 drywall drill that I took the trigger out of it to clean and didn't make a diagram of. I have 2 wires coming from the chord -black and white. 2 wires from the brushes and 2 wires going to the motor. I need am explanation in the most basic language possible. Example-white wire from chord goes here,black wire from chord goes here and so on the switch has forward and reverses only. I will try to put te best pics possible with this. I will apologize ahead of time because this has probably been covered before but I am tired of searching and I need to get this Sheetrock hung and floated to get my wife off my a**. Thanks for any and all help you all will give me.

 

Here is one way, they all need to be in Series to run, when the switch is changed over, the motor will reverse.

 

I really appreciate the answer and I somewhat understand. Couple of questions if you don't mind-(1) what does the L and N represent ? (2) it says bushes/motor but I thought the field coil was the motor? I have a black and white wire coming from the chord. The black wire (hot) goes into the bottom of "trigger" and out the side. Working like a light switch, just breaking the circuit when the trigger is depressed. So from there I have no clue. Thanks again for the reply but could you dumb it down a lil bit more for me lol. Once again thanks for any and all advice.

Here is one way, they all need to be in Series to run, when the switch is changed over, the motor will reverse.


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Couple of questions if you don't mind-(1) what does the L and N represent ? (2) it says bushes/motor but I thought the field coil was the motor?

"L" and "N" are line and neutral. Line is what you're calling "hot",the black wire. Neutral is the white wire or return to the plug.

The motor in the drill is a 'complete system', the field coils are just one part, the brushes and armature make up the other parts of the system. The motor in this type power tool is called a "universal motor", meaning it has brushes, it will run on both AC and DC.

The black wire (hot) goes into the bottom of "trigger" and out the side. Working like a light switch, just breaking the circuit when the trigger is depressed.

It is just the opposite of what you said. The trigger when 'depressed' connects the "line" to the motor, it breaks the connection when not being depressed. But before it does this connection, it goes through both an internal double pole double through switch(this allows reversing of the motor) and a circuit the allows the speed to be controlled.

 

"L" and "N" are line and neutral. Line is what you're calling "hot",the black wire. Neutral is the white wire or return to the plug.

The motor in the drill is a 'complete system', the field coils are just one part, the brushes and armature make up the other parts of the system. The motor in this type power tool is called a "universal motor", meaning it has brushes, it will run on both AC and DC.



It is just the opposite of what you said. The trigger when 'depressed' connects the "line" to the motor, it breaks the connection when not being depressed. But before it does this connection, it goes through both an internal double pole double through switch(this allows reversing of the motor) and a circuit the allows the speed to be controlled.

Ok so I drew a diagram of how I have now. The reverse works perfectly fine but when switched to forward it bogs down and doesn't move what so ever. The black wire from the plug goes thru the trigger and straight to the field coil. The white wire from the chord goes to number 2 on the circuit. The red wire coming out of the field coil goes into number 3 on the circuit. The red wire from the right brush (if your looking at the drill from the back side) goes to number 1 on the circuit. And the white wire coming from the left brush (if your looking at the drill from the back) goes into number 4 on the circuit. This is the way I have it wired now where only reverse works. An explanation or drawing of the right way to wire in this form would be greatly appreciated. And if anyone who has responded to this ever needs any advice on any type of construction or woodworking project I will be more than happy to guide you thru it, my brain is just so over trying to figure this out it's not even funny. For some reason I jut can't make sense of how it should be wired. Once again thanks a bunch for the replies so far and also for the any future responses.

 

Swap over the two red wires between terminals 1 and 3 on the reversing switch. All of the series motors that I have seen in power drills have one field coils in series with each brush so they behave as filter chokes to reduce electrical noise getting back into the power supply.

Les.

 

This is how all my electric drills are wired.

 

The reverse works perfectly fine but when switched to forward it bogs down and doesn't move what so ever.

If this is the original switch in the drill, a well used one, the statement above would make me think that the contacts in the reversing switch are burned out.

 

Hi shortbus,
From the drawing in post #5 when the switch is in the forward position (Assuming the TS has shown the path through the switch correctly.) one path (2 to 3) connects the field directly across the power supply and the other path (1 to 4) just shorts the brushes together.

Les.

 

I've already given him a working diagram in post#2, clearly he's not reading them...

 

Hi shortbus,
From the drawing in post #5 when the switch is in the forward position (Assuming the TS has shown the path through the switch correctly.) one path (2 to 3) connects the field directly across the power supply and the other path (1 to 4) just shorts the brushes together.

Les.

I'm pretty sure it works like a normal DPDT reversing switch. Crossing the power from the field to the different brushes to reverse the rotation. The field doesn't need to be reversed just the brushes.

Since the forward direction is used more than reverse, usually, the forward contacts burn out first. I saved a drill that was like that by just swapping the wires, so reverse was then forward. Just had to live without reverse. But it was cheaper than a new switch, and got the drill from a dumpster.

 

I am reading

I've already given him a working diagram in post#2, clearly he's not reading them...

I am reading but like I've stated before I don't understand the drawings that I've seen on here because if I did I would've figured it out by following the diagram that it is printed on top of the switch. That being said also me stating to dumb it down for me even more and an example of how I would understand it would state that I'm reading them. But I'll make it even more clear. I don't understand your drawing. Thanks

 

Can you confirm the following. From your post #5 my unerstanding is that in the forward position of the reversing switch there is continuity between terminals 4 &1 and also between 2 & 3 but not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 4. In the reverse position there is continuity between 1 & 3 and between 2 & 4 but not between 1 & 4 or 2 & 3. Is my understanding correct ?
Are you sure that there are only two connections to the field windings and it is not four wires like I described in the last sentance of post #6 and debe shows in his drawing in post #7
If my understanding about the switch is correct AND there are only two connections to the field windings then swaping over the connections between terminals 1 & 3 of the reversing switch should make it work.

Les.

 

You are correct. And I'm positive there is only 2 wires coming from the front of the drill a black one and a red one. Then a wire from each brush. And 2 wires from the power chord. For a road of 6 wires all together. I got the forward to work by leaving it in the reverse position but swapping 2 of the wires. But if I put it in forward the reverse does the same thing the forward would do when wires te other way. If that's understandable. Also I don't think the contacts are burnt because I have a hammer drill same make same trigger that I took apart to try and look at the wiring but my daughter distracted me and it fell off the table and a few wires came out. When I wore the other trigger the same way it does the exact same thing now so I'm screwed both ways. And dewalt won't send wiring diagrams anymore they want me to drive an hour to Baton Rouge and spend 50 bucks to let a guy open a book and wire it right I refuse to. But that makes me think that the contacts aren't burnt out just something wired wrong somewhere. I got both forwards working but it would be nice to have a reverse again. Thanks again for all the help and I hope this is understandable I'm trying to write this with a 3 year old jumping up and down on me signing as loud as she can thru a karaoke machine the theme song to the movie frozen.

 

It would help people here if you posted pictures of what you have.

 

I got the forward to work by leaving it in the reverse position but swapping 2 of the wires. But if I put it in forward the reverse does the same thing the forward would do when wires te other way. If that's understandable.

That's what I said in post #8. Your switch contacts are toast!

https://www.toolpartsdirect.com/?&u...MI_9WU3uPI2AIV2IqzCh1SAgUTEAAYASAAEgKcovD_BwE

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/power-tool-parts.html

 

Hey th

Can you confirm the following. From your post #5 my unerstanding is that in the forward position of the reversing switch there is continuity between terminals 4 &1 and also between 2 & 3 but not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 4. In the reverse position there is continuity between 1 & 3 and between 2 & 4 but not between 1 & 4 or 2 & 3. Is my understanding correct ?
Are you sure that there are only two connections to the field windings and it is not four wires like I described in the last sentance of post #6 and debe shows in his drawing in post #7
If my understanding about the switch is correct AND there are only two connections to the field windings then swaping over the connections between terminals 1 & 3 of the reversing switch should make it work.

Les.

Thanks for the help I did what u said and switched the #1 and #3 wires and it worked like a charm. Again thanks for the help and sorry for the headache.