hi ath,
The effective series resistance of the ACS-5 is about 1.2milliOhms, ref image from datasheet,
So a 50% bypass resistor would also be 1.2milliOhm .

That is approx 225mm of 2mmDia Cu wire. ref image.

IF you decide this method I could advise on its construction.
E

If it's gonna work, why not
Thank you so much,

So I have to connect the copper wire to the positive and negative terminals of the ACS712?

 

hi ath,
If your ACS module is like this image, the two way terminal block has the main in and out wires from the Solar panel to the Load.
Connect the bypass shunt wire in parallel with those two wires on the terminal block

When you get the correct length of shunt wire that gives a 50% current reading from the ACS, let me know.

E

 

Thanks for your help
I am going to get the ACS712 and I will make the circuit.
In figure 3 you mentioned the value of Rload = 8.9ohm, why this value? or did you choose it randomly?
I have considered connecting a rheostat as being a load, it will allow me to vary the resistance value to draw the characteristic curve I (V).

hi ath,
If your ACS module is like this image, the two way terminal block has the main in and out wires from the Solar panel to the Load.
Connect the bypass shunt wire in parallel with those two wires on the terminal block

When you get the correct length of shunt wire that gives a 50% current reading from the ACS, let me know.

E

 

hi,
I chose the 8.9R to simulate a maximum 5Amp load on the project.

E

 

hi,
I chose the 8.9R to simulate a maximum 5Amp load on the project.

E

ok
... 44.5/5= 8.9
thanks

 

I've heard that the hall effect current sensors can have an offset that has to be zeroed out. That could be inconvenient. Maybe an ACS725 would perform better.
Another possible gotcha if you're looking for accuracy: microcontroller ADCs aren't necessarily perfect, maybe more so if you have a clone Arduino made with a counterfeit Atmega chip.
Consider using an external ADC like the ADS1115 to read the panel voltage and shunt voltage.

 

hi ath,
The effective series resistance of the ACS-5 is about 1.2milliOhms, ref image from datasheet,
So a 50% bypass resistor would also be 1.2milliOhm .

That is approx 225mm of 2mmDia Cu wire. ref image.

IF you decide this method I could advise on its construction.
E

Hi, here I have a work which consists in measuring a current going from 0 to 10A,
Can I use a pewter wire instead of copper??

 

hi assonia,
What is the diameter of the pewter wire.??
As you may know it is mostly made of Tin.?
E

 

hi assonia,
What is the diameter of the pewter wire.??
As you may know it is mostly made of Tin.?
E
View attachment 241725

The section of my wire is approximately 1.5mm2

 

hi assonia,
I would use a length of that wire, say about 24cms long as a starting length.
Check the the current shown by the ACS module, then adjust the wire length in order give the required current on the ACS.
E

 

salut assonia,
J'utiliserais une longueur de ce fil, disons environ 24 cm de long comme longueur de départ.
Vérifiez le courant affiché par le module ACS, puis ajustez la longueur du fil afin de donner le courant requis sur l'ACS.
E
[/CITATION]

Je prévois en fait d'utiliser une autre méthode (je n'ai pas l'ACS) qui a été proposée par : https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Current-Sensor-for-Arduino/

J'avais le choix entre l'étain et le cuivre, j'ai choisi l'étain car il ne demande pas une grande longueur mais je ne suis pas sûr qu'il puisse supporter l'intensité du courant qui va être imposé (10A)

Mod:Translation.E

I'm actually planning to use another method (I don't have ACS) which was suggested by: https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Current-Sensor-for-Arduino/

I had the choice between tin and copper, I chose tin because it does not require a great length but I am not sure that it can withstand the intensity of the current that will be imposed (10A )

 

actually I plan to use another method (I don't have the ACS) which was proposed by
https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Current-Sensor-for-Arduino/

I had the choice between ethan and copper, I chose ethan because it doesn't need a long length but I'm not sure if it can withstand the current that will be imposed on it.

 

You can buy a 10mΩ shunt for £1 and you know it will be accurace
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/4879169/
What's the point in fiddling around trying to make one that probably won't be?

And really don't try to amplify it with a LM358. Use a proper shunt amplifier like an INA180 or AD8418. Otherwise, input offset voltage will make a bit of a mess of your results.

 

actually I plan to use another method (I don't have the ACS) which was proposed by
https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Current-Sensor-for-Arduino/

I had the choice between ethan and copper, I chose ethan because it doesn't need a long length but I'm not sure if it can withstand the current that will be imposed on it.

Constantan is the proper wire for shunts and if you need more current handling you run several stands in parallel. You can't solder the stuff so you must use a compression joint.