Q2 drawn like this:

10K fine for R5.
470 ohm OK for R4.

 

Q2 is not drawn correctly on the schematic.
A resistor is required between pin6 of the ATtiny and the base of Q1.
Why on the image of the pcb does it shows a TO263-2 for Q2?

Should I still use a 2N7002 instead of the big mosfet to switch on the 5v circuit only at dusk? And run 12v directly to the LEDs and LM393?
Maybe I had a brain fart... LOL

 

A 2N7002 is the wrong type, requires a P channel like a BS250.

 

The only reason I see for Q2 is to save battery current, which you stated wasn't an issue.
Why not use the output of the LM393 to trigger the ATtiny ?

 

A 2N7002 is the wrong type, requires a P channel like a BS250.

I had that IRF9Z shown as an NMOS somehow.. maybe I mirrored it at some point. So back to my question in #322. Do you think I should proceed with that plan, but use a BS250?

 

The only reason I see for Q2 is to save battery current, which you stated wasn't an issue.
Why not use the output of the LM393 to trigger the ATtiny ?

Let me think about that... My brain is fried LOL

 

Use the BS250 to power the 78L05 but leave U2 connected as is.
The BS250 is available in smt.

 

The only reason I see for Q2 is to save battery current, which you stated wasn't an issue.
Why not use the output of the LM393 to trigger the ATtiny ?

So, connect pin 1 from the LM393 to a digital pin on the attiny. A WHILE statement would keep the LEDs off when pin is LOW, otherwise the code would run.... read PIR and run the light sequence or not... Is that the idea?

 

No, the code runs when the output from the LM393 is low.
Digital pin on the tiny would require a internal pullup resistor enable or an external 10K resistor can be added

 

Use the BS250 to power the 78L05 but leave U2 connected as is.
The BS250 is available in smt.

Yes! Good idea. I've been looking at this too long and that never entered my mind. Thx!!
I'll be making all of these changes in the morning.

 

Need to use the other of the LM393 to trigger the ATtiny because of the 12 volts on the LM393 exceeds the input voltage of the ATtiny.
Connect pin5 to pin1 and pin6 to pin2.
Connect pin7 to the digital input of the tiny and enable a pull-up on that pin.

 

hi john,
I am puzzled why you have reverted to the earlier over complex design in using LM393 instead of the ADC input and the MOSFET where a simple reverse voltage diode would work the same, also I have written sketches for the Nano/Tiny which have been to show to work OK.????

E

 

hi john,
I am puzzled why you have reverted to the earlier over complex design in using LM393 instead of the ADC input and the MOSFET where a simple reverse voltage diode would work the same, also I have written sketches for the Nano/Tiny which have been to show to work OK.????

Hi Eric. I explained it on the earlier post of my latest schematic. I still plan to use that approach, but it will take me time to fully understand it and to get it implemented and tested. However, I need working boards with the hysteresis and other circuit improvements now. I expect to utilize the ADC, eliminate the LM393 and it's resistors by spring time.

 

Need to use the other of the LM393 to trigger the ATtiny because of the 12 volts on the LM393 exceeds the input voltage of the ATtiny.
Connect pin5 to pin1 and pin6 to pin2.
Connect pin7 to the digital input of the tiny and enable a pull-up on that pin.

I was planning (brainstorming) last night about using the other comparitor to monitor battery voltage level and have pin 7 trigger a rapid blink sequence on the attiny when voltage fell below 11v. A heads up for needing to recharge the battery.
Won't the BS250 energize the 5v circuit at dusk as we discussed? What would the signal from lm393 pin 7 to attiny initiate? Once energized, the light functions are triggered by the PIR sensor.

 

Is there really a need to activate the 5volt regulator?
Eliminating the BS250.

 

Is there really a need to activate the 5volt regulator?
Eliminating the BS250.

I think so... maybe just preference, but I would like the entire 5v circuit to be de energized during daylight hours. I hope I understood your question...
Here is my revised schematic (.pdf attached also)

 

Looks good.

 

Looks good.

AWESOME!! Moving forward. Can I post my PCB when done for a quick review before I send the gerber files to JLCPCB?

 

I think so... maybe just preference, but I would like the entire 5v circuit to be de energized during daylight hours. I hope I understood your question...

The 78L05 draws 5mA with no load.
The LDD-300L draws 10mA with no load.

The LDD-300L is always active in latest schematic. Is it really worth disabling the 78L05?

Just saying...

 

The 78L05 draws 5mA with no load.
The LDD-300L draws 10mA with no load.

The LDD-300L is always active in latest schematic. Is it really worth disabling the 78L05?

Just saying...

Is this what you are suggesting?