Not a big deal, the only risk the OP has is that his connected device will stop working unless he manages to short two splices together or a splice to the frame. In that case, the wet mud will likely keep the bike from bursting into flames.

I was just showing that because in my first post I tried to clarify "properly" as used here and said that its only "proper" for multiple wires in one terminal IF that had been tested and approved by the NRTL for that specific terminal..
And that note shows what I was talking about.. So those butt spliced cannot be used "professionally" with multiple wires in each barrel..
By professionally I mean in a product you will be seeking UL or similar approval on..

Of course that type of thing is also easily overlooked by the UL inspectors.. But every once in a while you will send a product in and get assigned the one inspector that is paying attention and "well I did it last time" ain't gonna fly..
Not that one would ever attempt to slip something past the testing agencies

 

If your gonna quote to me from a pdf I posted then read it well.
There ARE butt splices that ARE UL approved for more than one wire, even though the ones on pg 50 are not.
Just a few more pages past those are the ones that ARE approved.
Let me correct that and say there is no NOTE: saying not approved by UL/CSA.
Besides this is all academic now anyway. The OP seems to be trolling us on this post.

 

Wow! This thread is HUGE. I didn't read the whole thing. I apologize.

Silicone that has acetic acid will corrode.

Heat shrink can come with a sticky inside as was mentioned.

This stuff (Scotch 70) http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/41168O/scotch-self-fusing-silicone-rubber-electrical-tape-70.PDF is incredible and expensive.

 

The OP seems to be trolling us on this post.

Really sorry if you got this impression. I'm not an expert of such things, for this reason I searched for help from more experienced people on this forum. I have many things to do than going "trolling" on forums and make people loosing their time. Really.

I should feel myself guilty 'cause a lot of people have posted here?
Do you love those desertified/nuclearized forums with 2 or 3 laconic messages per thread?
What I should do? Saying to people "please don't post anymore otherwise somebody could be hurted"??? I should not thanks people for their help?

For me the question could be considered closed after the answer of user named "#12". But after that many people have posted interesting aspects/topics that I was not aware to:

- post-soldering vs not post-soldering
- contact oxidation problem
- resistance to pull-out forces
- tools costs and type
- conductivity problems
- etc. etc.

I'm a newbie about crimping, never done before. I know that there are many experts here that can laugh of the ingenuous questions of a newbie. I know that they can be get quickly annoyed by stupid (from their point of view) questions and answers. What I could say about that? Ok man, you have all the knowledge of the world in your pockets, I'm happy for you! Man, you're so wise when compared to me!

I'm not going to post on this thread anymore. Thanks to all the ones that have helped me with their tips. Bye.

 

Yeah, I know that wires brakes always (soldered or crimped) after a while. In my case the connectors are not moving, they have a static (i.e. connected to the electric circuit of the motorcycle). My only concerns are about vibrations and durability against oxidation and (maybe) some water drops.
By following the suggestion/helps received on this forum I will add some kind of sleeve (i.e. with two overlapping heat-shrink tubes, or semi-rigid tubes from 3M) to make the transition crimp-to-wire more smooth as possible.


For me this remains a big problem instead. I could make a soldered-joint but after how I seal it and protect from corrosion and water? Since the connector is not completely hidden int he fairing of the motorcycle, I cannot simply cover it with an unaesthetic "blob" of black silicone

Hi,

What i dont understand here is how can any connector be moisture proof unless it is made to be so in the first place? Are you saying that the original connection (without any modifications yet) is water proof? If so, then you would need to use the same technique they used. If you have to add a connector, then you could use water proof connectors or something, which would already have some way to seal everything up by design. I am wondering if the connector looks like a molex power connector (+12v, +5v, and two grounds) inside a PC computer or something like that.

But really a picture would help the most here. A picture of the connector and maybe with the connector pulled apart with pic's of both sections after separation. I am wondering how many wires we are dealing with here too, one, two, seven, twenty? Several pictures even better.

Also, if you use silicone you must use the type made for electronics because some have a chemical that corrodes wires, unless you already know it is a type that does not harm the metals.

Another idea is to carefully (very carefully) shave some of the insulation off of a 1/2 inch long section of the original wire and then wrap another wire around that section, then solder. That gives you a 'tap' on the original wire. As long as it is not too far from the original connector location it will not overheat anything. You could then seal that with something using a mold perhaps round and flat or square and flat, by first sealing it with a blob and then covering the blob with a molded shape of the same stuff in a form that would not look too bad.

Another idea is to seal the end of the wire with something like varnish. This helps to seal the end of the wire so moisture can not wick up into the wire and corrode the wire under the insulation. Of course that has to dry good before applying any silicone after that.

 

I observed a real world test of crimped vs crimped and soldered connectors yesterday.

I have been spending some spare time wiring a motorcycle for my ne'er do well nephew in the last 2 weeks, but it felt strange trying to guess what he wanted because he didn't answer my emails with the schematics steadily improving as each part was measured for its current needs and connected. I simply proceeded to design and install a safe and reliable wiring harness. When he arrived home after a 2 week cocaine binge, he announced that he didn't want any fuses included and had a complete meltdown. He ripped out all the routing I had temporarily laid out with electricians tape and a couple of wires he had routed with zip ties. He ripped out the wires that were factory crimped, but he couldn't rip out the connectors I crimped and soldered, so he had to cut them off. Sixteen crimped and soldered ends were still bolted to the battery and the frame.

Of course, several people will object, saying that vandalism or a drug fueled temper tantrum isn't a proper test of crimped connections. Maybe that is correct, but the crimped and soldered connectors survived even this completely unreasonable test.

 

The OP seems to be trolling us on this post.

That's not fair.

It is a widely held assumption that soldering a joint will improve the connection - it is wrong, but widely held nevertheless. I once held this belief as a newly graduated engineer and even ignored written directions to the contrary, because I knew best. The part that I was working on was an active seeker for a missile. Part of the acceptance testing for this seeker included a rigorous 11 G, swept vibration test. ALL OF MY SOLDERED CONNECTIONS FAILED!! Well, the "excrement" hit the fan - and I was the target. I was sat down and made to read (and be tested on) all the reasons NOT to solder a connection. It was a life lesson that stuck.

It is counter-intuitive to be told that a soldered connection is less reliable than a crimp alone (how could it? There's more to love!). Maybe the less experienced will read this post in the future and rethink their perceived assumptions. I believe that the OP now understands why not to solder a crimped connection. Maybe others in the future will come to the same conclusion.

 

Wow! This thread is HUGE. I didn't read the whole thing. I apologize.

Silicone that has acetic acid will corrode.

Heat shrink can come with a sticky inside as was mentioned.

This stuff (Scotch 70) http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/41168O/scotch-self-fusing-silicone-rubber-electrical-tape-70.PDF is incredible and expensive.

This is the stuff we used to seal electrical connectors that were in constant exposure to salt water when I installed systems on ships.

First, Silicone Rubber Fusion Tape then 3M electrical tape on top of that and finally a good painting of Scotchkote™ Electrical Coating.
https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/...ting-p300030?gclid=CN_Eq8ilyMsCFYqPfgodOV4NIQ
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/801269O/3mtm-scotchkotetm-electrical-coating-fd.pdf

 

I agree with Mr Al, There are plenty of automotive waterproof connectors at Mouser. It might be rough getting all of the pieces. So, you COULD splice in a "Y" and add a connector for your box.

The downside is you need a crimper and MAY need a pin extraction tool. I have a favorite that isn't too expensive.

 

The soldered connections need the flux removed.

Proper crimps work, but I have a large number of commercially made crimped BNC connectors fail at the hex crimp. The Hex nut version works better. The pins were resistance soldered.

 

If your gonna quote to me from a pdf I posted then read it well.
There ARE butt splices that ARE UL approved for more than one wire, even though the ones on pg 50 are not.

I went to page 50.. saw the note.. Posted it as fuel to my previous statement..
Nothing more..

 

The soldered connections need the flux removed.

Not if using no-clean flux that has been fully activated

 

Not if using no-clean flux that has been fully activated

No, the soldering flux needs to be cleaned, not due to any fear of corrosion of the joint from the flux, but because of contamination of the mating surfaces.

EDIT: Sorry, I'm thinking of plugable connectors.

 

No, the soldering flux needs to be cleaned, not due to any fear of corrosion of the joint from the flux, but because of contamination of the mating surfaces.

EDIT: Sorry, I'm thinking of plugable connectors.

I'm lost seeing where we even got started talking about flux/soldering again on crimped connections..

 

Brazed? Do you mean those connectors where the part grabbing the wire insulation has a cylindrical shape? If so, they are usually not available on the market for connectors (and housings) for electronics purposes (e.g. TE-Connectivity and other mfgs)

The tags are usually stamped from flat sheet material, they form the bit that holds the wire into a tube form.

The cheap ones don't braze the join - the good ones do.

 

Sixteen crimped and soldered ends were still bolted to the battery and the frame.

Of course, several people will object, saying that vandalism or a drug fueled temper tantrum isn't a proper test of crimped connections. Maybe that is correct, but the crimped and soldered connectors survived even this completely unreasonable test.

That's pretty much been my same conclusions for personal hands on witness to wiring harnesses damaged by physical force. Crimped and soldered tended to either tear the wires apart somewhere else or take the whole connecting block or chunks of it or what ever it was attached to with them.

As for someone else's mention of Alligator clips /test leads when there is a whole different realm movement between that application and a properly constructed and supported/anchored/secured wiring harness. Properly built and secured wiring harness tend to not move much if at all regardless of where wires are connected terminated spliced or whatever..

 

Really sorry if you got this impression.
<snip>
I'm not going to post on this thread anymore. Thanks to all the ones that have helped me with their tips. Bye.

Don't get too offended by what someone says -- it often takes a bit of a thick skin to participate in forums. People infer the wrong thing about what (or why) you said something and then post with that interpretation in mind. Best to either ignore it completely or to try to explain yourself (as I think you did quite well) and move on.

 

It's a motorcycle. Use a Deutsch connector (already weatherproof) with the proper crimper (4 dimples) and connect it. If it is good enough to go into space under the harshest of conditions, it is good enough for a motorcycle that goes through mud puddles. 137 posts????

https://laddinc.com/

Everything you need.

 

Just connect it with silver duct tape and apply some WD-40, that should do the trick.

 

Duct tape is conductive. Not good.