Cotton Candy Motor

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,577
Time to get back on topic, eh?
Certainly correct. The very fist thing to know is how fat it is supposed to spin. I once had to run one of those machines and they do spin really fast. The thread of molten sugar is supported by the vortex as it accumulates. And that vortex sort of suspend the thread.
So the very first question is "how fast SHOULD it be spinning", followed by "how hot should the sugar heater be."
The one other thing that I recall is that it was was rather important to have some things clean.
So probably the most important part is to understand exactly how it is supposed to be working. Maybe read the instruction book???
 

Thread Starter

Doriw99

Joined Mar 20, 2021
9
I
Certainly correct. The very fist thing to know is how fat it is supposed to spin. I once had to run one of those machines and they do spin really fast. The thread of molten sugar is supported by the vortex as it accumulates. And that vortex sort of suspend the thread.
So the very first question is "how fast SHOULD it be spinning", followed by "how hot should the sugar heater be."
The one other thing that I recall is that it was was rather important to have some things clean.
So probably the most important part is to understand exactly how it is supposed to be working. Maybe read the instruction book???
If it had came with one then I would have read it by now. I have looked online a little bit and found some tips on how to run it better but so far nothing has worked.
 

MrSalts

Joined Apr 2, 2020
2,767
Plug half the holes in the spinner and it will produce at half the speed. But, the sugar will stay in the cup twice as long and more likely to scorch/char
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,237
The rate of productionwa not the issue. The T wa concerned about how fast it was spinning.
Which, if you had read the thread, he is only concerned about because the rate of production is faster than he can keep up with.

...and I can not keep up with the cotton candy and I have never had this problem before.
 
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MrSalts

Joined Apr 2, 2020
2,767
The rate of productionwa not the issue. The T wa concerned about how fast it was spinning.
That’s kind of insulting to the OP People aren’t so stupid that they just look at the spinning head and think, “gee, that’s just too fast. I need to slow that down.”
 

Thread Starter

Doriw99

Joined Mar 20, 2021
9

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
18,108
Thank You I will try different sugar and plugging half the holes. Plugging half the wholes might just work actually so I will try that first. Again thank you
P.S. I am a girl not boy
I wonder if there's a spec for the hole diameter. It wouldn't surprise me that they open up with age. A new rotor with small holes might be superior to a rotor with fewer, larger holes.

Maybe this machine found its way into your hands because it's aging?

If the machine is new, I'd ask the manufacturer for help. Actually, I'd go ahead and ask either way. Somewhere there's an expert that knows exactly what's wrong.
 
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MrSalts

Joined Apr 2, 2020
2,767
New heads are $50 (novelty) to $600 (commercial). They come to end-of-life because of heater failure, not hole enlargement/steel erosion. She said it was a commercial unit and she is not likely using it on a state fair midway so it just has higher capacity than she needs.
 
I just bought one new myself very similar setup. Mine will regulate voltage fine until the heating element gets to certain temperature than it will jump up to full voltage even with the potentiometer is it lowest setting, 70-80 volts sometimes. I find this frustrating and i was wondering if anyone had any potential ideas? It does do it until running for several minute and temperature is high. Any help would be appreciated
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
30,674
Sounds like a component or device has gone temp-sensitive?
Most likely the SCR or Triac being used etc.
This is where a can of Arctic-Air spray is handy to detect these types of device failures.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,577
I just bought one new myself very similar setup. Mine will regulate voltage fine until the heating element gets to certain temperature than it will jump up to full voltage even with the potentiometer is it lowest setting, 70-80 volts sometimes. I find this frustrating and i was wondering if anyone had any potential ideas? It does do it until running for several minute and temperature is high. Any help would be appreciated
My big question is "How hot does the temperature controller get?" If it gets hot then some part may indeed be breaking down. The other possibility is that the heater element may be expanding as it heats and short circuiting such that it bypasses the temperature control. Resistance heaters often do change shape as they heat. And that might even be a shock hazard. Or it may be that there is an issue with the temperature sensor.
 
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