I have an electronic brewing machine for beer. Mechanically, it's great. Electronically, it's very primitive, and the manufacturer is not excited about user-friendliness or customer support.
It runs on 240V single phase. It has a 23-watt impeller pump that moves water around inside it. It has a 2000-watt heating element to heat the contents. It has a temperature probe to guide the heating. All of this goes to a controller. A total of 4 cables go from the controller to the heater, probe, and pump, so it's not complicated. They could just as easily go to a different device.
The controller has the capacity to store a few schedules or "recipes." Example: heat to 155 (F), hold for 60 minutes while pumping water through grain (shutting pump down for 1 minute out of every 15), heat to 170, hold for 15 minutes while pumping water through grain, shut off heat, alert user, boil contents for 60 minutes with alerts at 30 and 15 minutes, shut down and alert user.
The pump and heater are either on or off. No high or low settings.
The controller only allows a user to store a few recipes, which is ridiculous. It requires using up/down buttons to scroll through a billion characters. It limits the temperatures arbitrarily. There is no way to connect it to a PC for the purpose of moving recipes in and out. It is possible to connect it to the maker's website using a $400 wifi adaptor, and you can store recipes in their cloud. You can't use an adaptor from Amazon, and even if you could, the controller only accepts a weird German plug, not regular USB. No one has figured out the pinouts yet, but obviously, the lines going to the probe, motor, and heater are simpler.
Seems to me a person should be able to create either a programmable controller or a controller which can be controlled using a simple program on a laptop connected via Bluetooth or a USB cable.
Or I could spend $3000 on a new machine, which is not backwards-compatible, and hope they got it right this time.
I guess the first question is this: what's the best way to get juice to the heater? The OEM controller has a big heat sink on it. I'm not sure what that's all about. I would think raw AC would go into the element, so the only thing to worry about would be a way of switching it on and off without destructive arcs. I don't see why a heat sink would be needed. Maybe it's just to protect the digital stuff from the heat of the brewing process?
The pump only sucks 23 watts, so it seems like less of a concern.
An external controller would have to turn the heater and pump on and off. The heater would have to go on and off based on a timer and also based on reaching and maintaining temperatures indicated by the probe. The pump would sometimes run at the same time, but at other times, it would have to run separately. It would also be necessary to run the pump and heater manually, independently of each other.
Finally, the whole thing would need a text display and a way to communicate with a PC.
Any ideas about running the heater? Obviously, I am not very sophisticated when it comes to this stuff.
It runs on 240V single phase. It has a 23-watt impeller pump that moves water around inside it. It has a 2000-watt heating element to heat the contents. It has a temperature probe to guide the heating. All of this goes to a controller. A total of 4 cables go from the controller to the heater, probe, and pump, so it's not complicated. They could just as easily go to a different device.
The controller has the capacity to store a few schedules or "recipes." Example: heat to 155 (F), hold for 60 minutes while pumping water through grain (shutting pump down for 1 minute out of every 15), heat to 170, hold for 15 minutes while pumping water through grain, shut off heat, alert user, boil contents for 60 minutes with alerts at 30 and 15 minutes, shut down and alert user.
The pump and heater are either on or off. No high or low settings.
The controller only allows a user to store a few recipes, which is ridiculous. It requires using up/down buttons to scroll through a billion characters. It limits the temperatures arbitrarily. There is no way to connect it to a PC for the purpose of moving recipes in and out. It is possible to connect it to the maker's website using a $400 wifi adaptor, and you can store recipes in their cloud. You can't use an adaptor from Amazon, and even if you could, the controller only accepts a weird German plug, not regular USB. No one has figured out the pinouts yet, but obviously, the lines going to the probe, motor, and heater are simpler.
Seems to me a person should be able to create either a programmable controller or a controller which can be controlled using a simple program on a laptop connected via Bluetooth or a USB cable.
Or I could spend $3000 on a new machine, which is not backwards-compatible, and hope they got it right this time.
I guess the first question is this: what's the best way to get juice to the heater? The OEM controller has a big heat sink on it. I'm not sure what that's all about. I would think raw AC would go into the element, so the only thing to worry about would be a way of switching it on and off without destructive arcs. I don't see why a heat sink would be needed. Maybe it's just to protect the digital stuff from the heat of the brewing process?
The pump only sucks 23 watts, so it seems like less of a concern.
An external controller would have to turn the heater and pump on and off. The heater would have to go on and off based on a timer and also based on reaching and maintaining temperatures indicated by the probe. The pump would sometimes run at the same time, but at other times, it would have to run separately. It would also be necessary to run the pump and heater manually, independently of each other.
Finally, the whole thing would need a text display and a way to communicate with a PC.
Any ideas about running the heater? Obviously, I am not very sophisticated when it comes to this stuff.