Contact paper with grid

Thread Starter

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
I want contact paper (or self adhesive removable vinyl would be better) with a grid pattern. I want to apply it to a subpanel so I can assemble the subpanel without it getting all scratched up as I walk around on it and drill holes in it. I want the grid pattern on the paper to minimize the amount of measurements I must take. There are so many options of contact paper I get lost. It is hard to search for it because half the contact paper has a grid on it, on the throw-away paper backing. I want the grid printed on the actual product. So far the closest thing I have found is transfer tape used for adhesive vinyl logos (Cricut). This product is 5x -10x the cost of contact paper. It would be more cost effective to buy plain contact paper and draw lines on it.

Can anyone confirm that what I am looking for exists? Maybe provide a lead where I can buy some? I would appreciate it. I feel like I'm wasting time at something that will prove fruitless.
 

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
The only thing that popped into my head is to print whatever grid you want onto the contact paper. That used to be thing years ago but I can’t say I’ve seen it done anytime lately.
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,087
I can't recall seeing small grid contact paper. You can get grid paper at stationary supply stores and spray it with a permanent or repositionable contact adhesive (e.g, Elmers).

If extreme accuracy is not needed, I print on plain paper and then apply that with the spray adhesive. Works on metal and wood. For better accuracy on metal, I use layout fluid or just rely on the DRO of my mill. I have not needed extreme accuracy for wood.

The paper pattern removes easily with a little heat, denatured alcohol, or MEK, etc.
 

KJ6EAD

Joined Apr 30, 2011
1,581
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Thread Starter

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
The grid transfer tape used by graphic artists is what I think you need. You had found this already but what of the pricing? Here are a couple of references. A low or medium tack grid clear plastic would probably work best. Graphic arts and signage companies that cut vinyl letters may be willing to resell some and craft stores may have something.

https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Oasis-Blue-Grid-Transfer-Application/dp/B0186RI0V4

https://www.uscutter.com/TransferRite-Tape?view_all
that is the "transfer tape" that I was referring to. At $14 per 12"x10ft roll, by my math, it's about 12x the cost of the contact paper I bought from Dollar General @ $1.75 per 18"x10ft roll.

This Dollar General "granite" pattern contact paper looks like crap and totally out of place, but it's just a temporary protective barrier that I will remove before shipping the panel. I have a drywall square that I will use to draw the lines that I need. It will take a bit more time, but my SWAG is that it won't take so much time as to justify the extra cost of the transfer tape.

If anyone from 3M et. al. is reading this, you guys need to make contact paper with accurate grid pattern on it. I will buy it by the case.
 

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Thread Starter

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
The only thing that popped into my head is to print whatever grid you want onto the contact paper. That used to be thing years ago but I can’t say I’ve seen it done anytime lately.
That thought never occurred to me. I wonder what kind of printer could be set up to print continuous patterns on roll paper
 

wayneh

Joined Sep 9, 2010
17,496
That thought never occurred to me. I wonder what kind of printer could be set up to print continuous patterns on roll paper
My local FedEx shop has some pretty advanced and elaborate printers for making banners and such. No idea if they would have what you need. And if they do, they'll charge far too much for it.
 

KJ6EAD

Joined Apr 30, 2011
1,581
It would make sense for the panel manufacturer's or an electrical accessories company to "invent" this product if they haven't already; I didn't check.
 

JohnInTX

Joined Jun 26, 2012
4,787
Ahh.. panel boards. What I used to do was create the pattern in CAD and have it printed/plotted on .005" or thicker mylar like we used to use for laying out PCBs with tape. Provide cross-hairs for the hole centers and add index marks/drill sizes for ease of use. Generally there are a few mounting holes present that you can use to index the sheet or just slice it to the size of the panel and tape it down. The first time you center punch through the mylar sheet it will leave a little dimple that will guide you on subsequent panels - one mylar sheet will last a long time. I always spec'd Pelikan ink with ink plotting pens on one side frosty mylar. Any decent repro-house could knock off a few for cheap I would think. If they dot-matrix it and you think the markings will rub off, you can cover them with Krylon Matte spray finish or something like that.

I suppose you could also just carefully lay the template out manually, too. I always liked the CAD approach to avoid mistakes.

A completely different approach would be to use a sample panel as a template. Locate and pilot-drill the holes to some small size. Bolt it to the work and use a (same size as the holes) transfer punch to locate the holes on the work.
upload_2018-6-25_13-2-40.jpeg

Finally, you could make a template out of 1/4" Al with holes sized for drill bushings. That way you don't need the additional step of transfer punching. Just clamp it up and drill away.


Good luck!
 
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shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
contact paper looks like crap and totally out of place, but it's just a temporary protective barrier that I will remove before shipping the panel.
Contact paper must have changed since the last time I used/bought any. Any time I've used it(contact brand) it can hardly be removed, and will leave a film of adhesive in most spots. What is your secret?
 

Thread Starter

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
Contact paper must have changed since the last time I used/bought any. Any time I've used it(contact brand) it can hardly be removed, and will leave a film of adhesive in most spots. What is your secret?
It's going onto slick painted metal, not porous wooden kitchen drawers, so maybe that plays a part? I've used it before for this purpose and don't remember having an issue. But if there is an issue, it will be a big issue, as this is the largest subpanel I've ever assembled. That will be a lot of cleanup. I hope you're wrong...
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,045
It's going onto slick painted metal, not porous wooden kitchen drawers, so maybe that plays a part? I've used it before for this purpose and don't remember having an issue. But if there is an issue, it will be a big issue, as this is the largest subpanel I've ever assembled. That will be a lot of cleanup. I hope you're wrong...

I just used some to make a mask for a high powered PCB. The traces were so wide toner transfer wouldn't cover good enough. Now the contact paper was kind of old, but I had a hell of a time getting it pulled off where I wanted to etch. Ended up using a hair dryer to heat it up so it would come off, but still left a lot of adhesive on the copper.

Before doing it on your panel I'd try it on an old painted surface first.
 

Thread Starter

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,782
I just used some to make a mask for a high powered PCB. The traces were so wide toner transfer wouldn't cover good enough. Now the contact paper was kind of old, but I had a hell of a time getting it pulled off where I wanted to etch. Ended up using a hair dryer to heat it up so it would come off, but still left a lot of adhesive on the copper.

Before doing it on your panel I'd try it on an old painted surface first.
too late. I have peeled back a corner earlier when I drew on it with a sharpie, to make sure the sharpie wasn't bleeding through. Had no issues. I hope it doesn't get more ornery the longer I leave it on there.
 
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