I am thinking of buying this.
I believe its around $75.00 with free shipping.
For a hobbiest, is this a good deal?

If not, what would be better, for under $100.00?

Thanks,
Gary

 

I have an 858D model from I believe the same manufacturer and it has given me very good use for light hobby work for several years now. Yours seems very similar but for the addition of the DC power supply.

What I especially like is replacement parts are available for both the solder iron and the hot air pencil. I obtained both off EBay (the station too I believe). So if you step on your iron and crack it in half you need not worry. The original hot air pencil still works but I have a spare for that day: an associates' pencil gave up the ghost on it's own when the motor seized.

It uses Haako tips in the iron, very good tips if you buy reak Haako and not a clone. A clone will burn out the same day you insert it so pay more for the real deal.

 

I'm leery of the Chineseness of it, but sometimes cheap china works alright. It's really cool (to me) that it has an integral DC power supply. Personally I prefer to spend more, and spend only once. Buying a $400 rework station is cheaper than buying a $100 rework station, and then buying a $400 rework station when the first one bites the dust. I experienced that lesson like 5 times in a row with multimeters until I finally bought a Fluke. BUT, if you're an electronics hobbyist and your hobbyist electronics (rework station) quits, then maybe instead of representing an unrecoverable loss, it represents an exciting new repair project.

 

Thanks for the feedback, particularly about being able to get parts for it.
I think I will get it.

Gary

 

Here's the replacements:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...id=311095136838&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=replacement+Iron+handle+852D++898D

I have not personally used these sellers but have had excellent service from all the Chinese sources I've used.

 

It arrived today.
Very nice...
I thought the heat gun was broken, but I read the instructions, and now it works fine (it has a sensor in the hand grip).

Anyway, I finally have a solution for the solder left in a hole in the board, and how to remove it.

One of the tips is like a finely sharpened pencil.

I just stick that in the vicinity of the clogged hole, and voila, it goes through.
Then on the back side of the board, I use a small brass brush to brush off whatever comes out the back side.

I've done 4 Electrolytic Cap holes so far, and it cleaned them out perfectly.

Thanks for all your input, and especially for the links.

Now all I have to learn how to do is keep my hand from shaking.

I appreciate you guys (and gals).

Gary