Confused - what/which Diode?

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
Ok Reread the thread and so i can understand better.

1 when you bought the car you got the car with the UNIT that is in the door? Your car didn't come with the Normal OEM Fob but did come with the Fob of this China unit?

So they *Owner before you* took out the Wiring for the Normal door locks and hooked up your cars Drivers door to this Module as a replacement to the OEM fob?

2 System was working when you got it, Just had to use the Fob for the unit to lock and unlock your car? Only thing is that you wanted to have your car Show that it locks or un-locks with blinking your lights?

So everything above right? Unit works? you just want to add Light Flash? If that is the case then there was no need to remove module and take pictures. *Sorry I thought you were trying to get it to wire up to your car to make it work* in your case you can take the working unit and probe the system and take the output from the Doors locking I would think it is one of the Blue or Green wires that would give you a Pulse ground when you send a lock command. Testing this with a DVOM/DMM or test light should tell you that it is what you need when you press lock. Take that and add it to a Relay. This relay would then connect to your Parking lights either at the Light Switch at a White wire and would be a ground input. Or if you were only able to get a Positive input then you could use at the Dimmer the Red/Black wire + connection to the parking lights. Again I advise that you use a Relay this relay could be a 4 or 5 pin. There are many different types of Relays out there and if you were to find one say with a Built in Resistor you wouldn't need to use a Diode. Diode I use in most Alarm/keyless/Remote Start sytems is the IN4001 or IN4004 and at times IN4007 it is just really what I have at hand.

In my case, I would buy something better with functions that I would want to use and remove the system from the car. With any luck I would take out the wiring from the unit and connect back up the wiring that was from Factory and again use the wring at the drivers kick area for lock and unlock of the Alarm/RS system.

To me it would just feel like the car I just bought has some hacked in Keyless system and I wouldn't be able to live with it longer then it would take for something to get get into my hands to install.

I was just off to bed when I came online and found your post. So I will look over the PCB but really every thing you need is there if it is working already just need to choose the Output to connect to for running a Relay to Flash your Lights when you Lock the doors. For me with this mess. I wouldn't even do a light flash for Unlock. Important one is the LOCK.
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
1 when you bought the car you got the car with the UNIT that is in the door? Your car didn't come with the Normal OEM Fob but did come with the Fob of this China unit?

So they *Owner before you* took out the Wiring for the Normal door locks and hooked up your cars Drivers door to this Module as a replacement to the OEM fob?

2 System was working when you got it, Just had to use the Fob for the unit to lock and unlock your car? Only thing is that you wanted to have your car Show that it locks or un-locks with blinking your lights?
Thanks J

1. Yes thats correct
When the Chinese unit is working, the locking/unlocking lever actuates the OEM locking mechanism, which send the signal to ETACS (but no lights flashing) and also, when I lock/unlock the door with the key, the OEM lock centrally locks/unlocks all doors (again no flashing).

2. Correct again- i want the lights to flash when locking, not for unlocking.


As you've asked, to test the wire, I connected bulb +ve to green wire and -ve to body by touching with finger, pressed lock button and it flashed once. Now I understand it feeds +ve pulse. Then as I needed my both hads (not to touch with finger), I connected bulb -ve wire to black door light wire (red light at the bottom side of the door which works when door is opened), bulb kept lighting constant without pressing the lock button. Then I connected it to red wire, and it flashed ones to lock button. I'm confused here- why it kept lighting to black wire without the lock command?

Please could you instruct me with relay pin number and wire colour. I've a 5 pin relay switch and 2 x IN5400 silicon diodes (3A, 50V reverse voltage) each.

85- which wire?
86-ground?
30- 12v constant fused?
87- parking light wire at switch?
 
Last edited:

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
About the Diodes, I think they are fine. I think there is some higher ratings on Resistance and max amps that the IN5400 can handle. However not sure about the extra resistance if that will factor in.

So on the -ve of your output. You could tap that and use as the ground for the Control side of the relay. I am not sure about the ability to have + volts resting on that line so I would Diode isolate it from the 12v feeding into the system over the coil. Then you can wire the switched side of the Relay out to what ever you want to connect to as stated before.

If it was me I would use the White wire on your Light switch for the Ground output from the relay. So then I would connect 30 to a good ground area on the car and pin 87 out to the White wire that would work your parking lights from your light switch. This will give you a flash of the lights when you Press the Lock button on your FOB. However note this would also flash the lights at any time that is triggered if it is really running over the switch, or key cylinder. So that may not be a desired result. However it does give you the flash to confirm that you press the lock.
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
Hi,

I am back again. I'm still stuck. I can't get the relay to work to FOB signal!

I connected the FOB signal wire to 86 and ground to 85 but relay wouldn't click when I press the LOCK button. I changed the polarity and tried it, no result. But for either polarity, the bulb flashes.

Am I right thinking the China unit voltage is not enough for the relay to work? If so, how can I work around this? Please help!

Thanks
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
With a meter or something check that there is ground from one of the green or blue wires when you press the lock button! Once you know what one does that lock ground connect that to the Pin85 and connect pin86 to your cars 12v+ line. Then what will happen when you press the lock button that Ground from either Blue or Green wire will activate the Relay. Then you would make a connection to Pin 87 to the Ground on the car body somewhere close, and then pin 30 would be connected to the wire for your lights on the Ground input. If you were going to make it at the 12v+ input I stated before then wire the right way to access that. For me I would rather use the ground side if it was my car.

James
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
Thanks J

These stuff fascinates me cos I'm learning a lot about car wiring system. If I can get all this to work, I'll be chuffed!

I understand the connection method for 85 and 86. Its to activate the relay coil. Sorry I forgot to add another info to the above reply. What it is, like I did for ground, I also did try connecting constant +12v to 85 and the green to 86, but relay wouldn't click when I press the LOCK button. Retried connecting + to 86, no results.

I'm a bit confused here though..

I'm trying to understand whats happening here, so please correct me if I'm wrong here; parking light only works when a +12v connection is given (like when switch is turned on), yeah? So if I connect 30 to body and 87 to light, then I'm giving a ground connection to light, which already has a ground from body at the holder. I know car bulbs really just completing the circuit - reversed polarity would still light it up, doesn't matter which direction the volts flow, but it's not completing the circuit?
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,050
Is the light that is getting "lit" an led? if so that may be at a lower voltage that won't trigger the relay. There is probably a micro controller in the system so a lower voltage would be present for the led.
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
Is the light that is getting "lit" an led? if so that may be at a lower voltage that won't trigger the relay. There is probably a micro controller in the system so a lower voltage would be present for the led.
No, this if for flashing a car 12v bulb, to work from a door lock trigger from FOB.
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
Ok remember as I was saying before. there are 2 places that you can get the Lights to turn on at.

One is the the Red/Black wire at your dimming area on your dash. that would be a 12v+ connection <----- I wouldn't use that one.

Two there is a White wire at your Light Switch. this wire that is at the back side of your light switch is a Ground when you turn on the parking lights. So what happenes is when you arm your *Lock your car* the Relay sends the right ground to the wire wire at the switch and that will flash your parking lights.

So to make this happen you would set the Body ground on pin 87 or 30 it don't matter really. If you have a 4 Pin relay then the other wire off the other pin say 30 in this case would go to the WHITE wire off your Light switch.

So then I know and sorry I don't know your Module but all the others that I have ever installed always had the Green and Blue as lock and unlock off the Module. However in some cases and maybe in yours this can be changed by a Jumper or pin switch to change to a 12v+ so that was why I was saying make sure you test your WIRES always TEST your wires before hooking things up to be safe.

So lets make sure your Relay is good. Take the relay with a small jumper wire to your cars battery. Place one pin either 86 or 85 on the Ground terminal of your cars battery. With the Jumper wire touch the other pin either 85 or 86 what ever one you didn't already connect to the ground and jumper connected to 12v+ and the Relay should click.

If it clicked then you know that part of the Relay is good. Not saying the relay is good. They can go bad.

This is if this was my car.

Find a 12v+ constant Put that on Pin 86
*use test light or DVOM/DMM and test what wire from the Control module for the Door locks provides ground when I press lock* Put that on pin 85.
Pin 30 would go to Ground on Car
Pin 87 would go to White Wire Behind Light Switch *After testing that it is ground when I put on the parking lights*
Tape and loom all the wires where needed and wire tie up the new loom to the underside of the dash keeping all extras away from moving parts. Put the car back to gether and call it a day.

James
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
James, thanks. I now understand the white wire is the ground one. I followed your instruction, but it didn't work - relay wouldn't click!. Something is wrong or I'm doing it wrong way? Okay, this is whats happening with my module/car.....

Yes, there is a green and a blue wire, which are the lock/unlock signal wires, in the China module:

. Using a multimeter, I touched the body with black and green wire with the red one and pressed LOCK, it read a voltage between +9.88 to +11.35v. I then reversed the polarity and it read same but the -ve voltage. So this tells that its feeding a +ve pulse
. To check, I then touched thick green constant +12v wire at the ignition barrel with red and module green wire with black one, it read +11.89. So this tells its feeding -ve constant?
. I then tried the same with module blue wire, the result is same again.

Whats happening with green/blue - I'm all confused whether its -ve OR +ve??
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
Ok that is easy to fix. So ground to body on pin 85 then use the wire that shows 12v when you push lock on 86.

You can use that ground on 85 spot for pin 30 as well. Then87 out to your light wire that should make it work.

Need to get t o sleep now have work in little over 5 and half hours.

James
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
J, I appreciate your time, thanks. I should let you go to your dreamland, but for your information, I tried that as well.

I can feel the relay tried to click but it wouldn't (a low clicking noise). I think the pulse voltage time is not long enough or the voltage is too low, for it to fully click? I connected a bulb to 87 and it didn't flash either.

Sleep tight
 

shortbus

Joined Sep 30, 2009
10,050
Not following the thread too closely so it may have already been said. Most things automotive have the source (V+) directly connected to the item. Then the "brains"/controller only need a 'low side' switch to activate them. So maybe the relay needs to have one side directly to 12V and other to the wire coming from the controller?
 

IMP002017

Joined Jan 28, 2017
192
Yeah I am far past the Point that I would have Replaced this unit with something that would be better for my needs. With how low in cost you can find things on Ebay and other places that deal with such devices.

If you are looking just to have your car doors lock and unlock with light flash there are many many cheap even some lower then 20 that would do 100000% then what you are working with and some with Light Flash option on unit

For me if it was my car I would look for a system that has Light flash, Door lock, unlock with trunk pop. If I was in an area that had high crime I would use a system with a Good quality alarm as well. Sadly most systems that one would buy on the cheap will have issues with false alarms so I would elect to get one in best quality to help. Then if I was in an area where I moved away from and one of the reasons I have Remote Start on my car. However somewhere that the Temps get really high or really low I would get one with RemoteStart. Again you can get one on the cheap in most cases you do get what you pay for. So Mine has the features that I wanted and I paid extra for having the options.

However in most cases and when it don't really matter is for just a Keyless system. Only option that really matters is how far away it will work. I mean if it don't work in the house and you want to make sure that you locked your car before you went to bed then it would suck to have to go out side to get close. So Range matters. Then for your needs Light Flash and locks. I did find a lower nameless unit on ebay for Keyless with Actuators that offered Light flash option as well was 45 USD and for that cost you could get an alarm or better feature keyless entery system
 

Thread Starter

zakmuh

Joined Jul 25, 2016
59
James, and Shortbus, thanks a lot.

Agreed! No point I'm wasting my time trying to fix the problem with this basic unit. Points taken- I'll get an all singing all dancing unit and sort everything from there.

:)

Cheers
 
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