Hi,

I'm here seeking some knowledge on diodes. What it is, I need to connect a universal central locking indicator wire (brown) to car's hazard wire. So I'd think I must use a diode to new wire, to stop voltage going to the locking main board each time I make a left/right turn?

Car voltage = 12V
Indicator bulb watt = 35W
Amp = (35/12) say 3A?

I'm from the UK and when I googled to find out the required diode, it confused me!

1. Semiconductor and zener diode, what is the difference?
semiconductor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SA12A-Fai...9&clk_rvr_id=1217574374649&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
zener diode: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1n5352-brl-15-v-330ma-zener-diode-ay72p

2. How do I pick a diode for a relevant voltage and amp based on SA12A numbering or 1NXXXX numbering (do these number represent anything like v, A,W etc) ?

I'd highly appreciate if anyone could explain the above and guide me...

Cheers

 

Zener diodes are used to regulate a voltage - not what you need.
If this wire is feeding the car hazard lights, then are four bulbs, total 12A in which case you need a diode rated at more than 12A. That's a fairly mighty diode and might need a heatsink. The voltage rating should be 100V or greater to withstand voltage spikes which are fairly common in automotive systems.

 

Try a 1N5401 for starters, otherwise 15Sq045s....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/?iid=36176...34428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1217596381268&chn=ps

 

Thanks

I want to connect it to hazard light switch on the dashboard, rather than connecting to indicator output line (2 lines left and right)

 

Will the wire be giving out a pulsed 12v to drive lights or a relay?

 

Hi,

I'm here seeking some knowledge on diodes. What it is, I need to connect a universal central locking indicator wire (brown) to car's hazard wire. So I'd think I must use a diode to new wire, to stop voltage going to the locking main board each time I make a left/right turn?

Car voltage = 12V
Indicator bulb watt = 35W
Amp = (35/12) say 3A?

I'm from the UK and when I googled to find out the required diode, it confused me!

1. Semiconductor and zener diode, what is the difference?
semiconductor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SA12A-Fai...9&clk_rvr_id=1217574374649&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true
zener diode: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1n5352-brl-15-v-330ma-zener-diode-ay72p

2. How do I pick a diode for a relevant voltage and amp based on SA12A numbering or 1NXXXX numbering (do these number represent anything like v, A,W etc) ?

I'd highly appreciate if anyone could explain the above and guide me...

Cheers

With a few exceptions, most wire ended diodes are 3A or less - so not much in the way of a safety margin.

You should probably look for something in TO220 package or bigger.

There's usually a couple on the secondary side heat sink in an ATX PSU, but might be better to avoid the Shottky barrier types - they have much lower reverse voltage and may not survive the noisy automotive environment. You can identify SB diodes with a DMM diode check function - they read a fair bit less than 0.7V.

 

Will the wire be giving out a pulsed 12v to drive lights or a relay?

Thanks your replies.

Ian, sorry, these all sound French to me .

Dave, I don't know what pulsed voltage means. I just found out the relay switch for the hazard lights. Wouldn't it be possible to connect directly to wire going from relay to lights?

May I ask...a diode is used to avoid reverse voltage, yeah? So would this central locking unit not already have a diode in the circuit board? the reason I'm asking is, I youtubed for some videos and all of them simply splicing the wire to indicator wire with an insulation tape. So I'd assume that the unit is designed with a diode. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I dont have a diagram for mine and the below diagram is not the correct one- I just googled it and it looks similar. Maybe mine has not wires for indicators. Can I not connect the 'alarm' one instead?

 

The Alarm wire is a feed from your alarm system, this will be High when alarm set, this will lock the doors,.

"Pulsed voltage" means the wire will be giving a positive on and off for a timed period,, instead of just staying positive continously.

 

Oh okay. So those brown wires are for incoming feed from the alarm, not the other way around. Thanks Dave!

As those are for alarm, I need to feed the indicators from blue and green and yes, these blue and green have pulsed voltage - I tried connecting a bulb to it and it flashes only once (reversed polarity - from blub, black to the blue and red to earth/body)

 

I am not 100% sure what your trying to do.

I understand your in the UK and I am in the USA. So unless your cars are different then ours in the ways Door locks hooked up I think there is something that your over thinking.

First of all. I get from your post there is no wire diagrams? Nothing on the bottom of the unit to help with Install? In some cases there is a Pin out diagram on the bottom of the case of the unit! This could be a sheet of paper that was glued on the bottom to as complex as it being apart of the case it self. So Case is black, There is molded in the case back the pin out? If this isn't the case for your system there.

Do you know the maker of your Door lock system?

IN most systems like this there could be many many different ways to wire them up. As there are Thousands of different companies that make them.

Then we need to know does your system have the 5 Wire Master Actuator and 3 two wire slave Actuators?

There are again many different types. Some are stand alone, some have Keyfob, some are setup to connect to alarms/keyless some are they go on and on.

maybe take the 4 screws out of the case. take picture of both sides of the PCB and post them pictures and maybe we can figure out what does what.

If you know the make and Model you could always look over the manufactures website for the right setup, if they don't have one even an e mail to them could be helpful unless it was from someone that is like DEI where they don't want anyone other then Authorized dealers working with this systems I feel is bad idea really. however it is as it is...

Again I am confused to where or why your trying to tie into your hazards/flasher system on your car. Most times these are just direct connect unless your doing something in areas where it is connected into your cars computer system.

James

 

I am not 100% sure what your trying to do.

Do you know the maker of your Door lock system?

Then we need to know does your system have the 5 Wire Master Actuator and 3 two wire slave Actuators?

maybe take the 4 screws out of the case. take picture of both sides of the PCB and post them pictures and maybe we can figure out what does what.

Again I am confused to where or why your trying to tie into your hazards/flasher system on your car. Most times these are just direct connect unless your doing something in areas where it is connected into your cars computer system.

James

Hi James,

Thanks for your reply.

What it is....I bought this 2003 Kia Sorento three weeks ago and it came with a Chinese central locking fob ( I'd assume the previous owner lost it's original fob or the ETACS is acting up, and buying a fob from the dealer is around £250 per fob). This Chinese one has no make or diagram on the case but there is a number 16370274. I tried my level best to hunt it down on googling but no luck. If you compare the number of wires and colour codes on the pics above, you'll see the diagram (which I googled) makes sense?

They've used this Chinese master actuator to activate car's original master actuator on driver side door, which then powers up rest 4 doors for locking/unlocking (see below pic) BUT it doesn't flash the indicators, so I don't get to know if the car is locking or unlocking when the button is pressed. This is why I need to give a connection to indicators so that it'd flash when I press the lock/unlock button.

Yeah, in the Chinese master actuator there are 5 wires- blue, green, 2 x white and a brown, but only blue and green have connection to the main Chinese unit (see pic below).



I hope this explains everything

Cheers

 

Ok, That sounds easy enough. Not sure that I would have elected to buy a system while there is one in the car already. I would have maybe looked over Ebay or some other type of place that sales used fobs. Maybe your in an area where programming is not able to do it on your own.

With that said. Sadly you went a little far out for what I would have done really.

If there is Power door locks in your car already I would have bought a Aftermarket Keyless Entry or even a Alarm with the missing Fob the older owner may have it and may see the car and find that they like what you have in side. Just saying.... So with an alarm if it was unlocked by anything other then the Alarm fob it would go off..

For your car, It has in the drivers door a 5 wire system already. If you were going to add an aftermarket alarm or Keyless you would get your wires at the Drivers kick panel. For Lock it would be a Ground to a Blue wire. For the Unlock it would be Ground on the White wire in that area. In most cases one would use a pair of Relays to set up door locks on the Alarm or Keyless entry systems. Here is a Cheap under 15USD on ebay that would also offer the ability to pop the trunk or back hatch...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Remote-...4f41ad91343382af00f19b&pid=100506&rk=1&rkt=1&

Then if you was using a Alarm/Keyless system it isn't the Flasher that you would connect into. It is the parking lights. You could do this at this connection for your system that you have if you still choose to install it. It would be at 1 of 2 places to get the wire. At the Dimmer Switch is a Red/Black and would require a + (positive) connection for light flash. Or you could get it at the Headlight switch White wire and would be -(ground)... In most cases this would require a Relay as well. Some systems have the Relays built into the modules.

So then you have your system. If you didn't want to get one that I feel would be better suited for your needs. You can use the one you have and once you get the locks installed and working. It would be easy to get the cars lights to flash with what you have. However you would need a Relay. This could be any 12v relay and would need 4 Pin but could use a 5 pin Relay. Then what you would do is once you have your Lock wire figured out. I would take a tap off that, and put on the Relay with the output of the relay going to one of the 2 wires I was stated above for the parking lights. Then when you press the door lock to lock the lights would flash for the pulse time of the door lock pulse.

James

 

Nice one J, thanks!

I want to install a good car security system with immobiliser professionally but not at this stage- maybe in a couple of months time. Until then, I just need the indicator lights to flash. I know it'd be an easy connection system, once I know how all these are working

One more thing I wanted to ask, not having much electronic knowledge, diode and relay switch work the same way aren't they? Diode - no reverse voltage and relay - no reverse unless coil is activated? So using a relay, I'd then have to use a diode right after the relay, to stop reverse voltage feeding in from indicator switch, when making a turn? Instead, I can use a diode without a relay switch, can I not?

 

Well the thing is that the relay is being used in place because the Current to run your parking lights.are greater then the wire that would normally control such an event. So the Relay is needed because it will change the current from say 500mA or 250mA to the ability to work them. This is also because most times people elect to use the + side of the Circuit and that can be a very large draw. I have seen as much as 6amps so a 250 to 500ma connection would just burn up the modules ability to work.

So where you would make a connection with the Relay there is no need for a Diode because when the systems lights are on it would just rest on the Relay N/O connection were there is no internal connection unless the relay is pulled closed. Then it wouldn't matter because it is just using the same polarity. If there was some other type of connection going on where there could be a difference in polarity then again one could get away without using a diode because the change could be wired in with a Relay to make the Relay not work when the lights were on if that was going to be a problem.

Now I know your not working with an Alarm right now or Keyless system. So then your thinking well I should be able to use the Modules ability to pass current to the Actuators should be enough to pass to the lights as well. Problem is also with being a Low cost China part. I would almost guess that there is not going to be enough current ability from the path of the door locks to make your lights work as well. So again the Relay is a way to make it so it can pass the current needed to turn on your lights.

Most important thing that I want to say. IN NO WAY SHOULD YOU USE YOUR SYSTEM to your light your lights on the Flasher side of the cars circuit. That is because while the Parking side of a Bulb is around 1/2 amp at each bulb. There would be 4 at a min that would be connected in most times, there could be as many as 10 or more bulbs as well. Blinkers side of the bulb is much greater and would require more current to light them. I know on my bulbs on the blinkers side with only 4 bulbs like would flash could be more, however the normal total current on them would be 10amps. As each bulb fires with 2.25 amps while new. Then you have to factor in the *In-Rush current* and I don't know the real total because I haven't put it on a Scope, tried to find it with a Meter under 20amp side it didn't show because it is really as it sounds Rush and is very fast over current because the Bulbs resistance is higher while cold. Heats really fast. One day I will find the true value my meter wasn't fast enough to get the total.

I don't mean to say what you should or shouldn't do. I am just saying for the normal install as it would be a normal or not normal practice. This is your setup and you can try to wire it as you like. Please remember to double check the Wires your connecting to for proper polarity and that there is enough current able to run the install. *In other words taping into a 5amp fuse* in your fuse box wouldn't work if you draw 20 amps for your setup.

James

 

James, thanks a trillion for making an effort to explain this to me

Now I think I understand it and that's why Dave and Ian advised on higher diodes with heat sink. I will stay away from connecting it to indicators and leave it as it is, as there are no wires given in the kit to connect to.

Do you think I can make the door mirrors to fold/unfold with door lock/unlock or is it no-no as well?

http://tinyurl.com/y9dop92d

Outside this conversation and for my information, is a transistor like relay switch?

Cheers

 

I am not 100%. Again things you want to do can most times be done with an alarm/Keyless system with additions of extra modules if the one you buy don't have the options built into them.

Problem I see with working on mirrors is that you need a system that would be better made for that option. Most times there are programming of the modules to work for a set time or some even have the ability to test for end stop type setups.

A Door lock is really only pulse for lock and or unlock. Most times there are only a DIP or jumper that can change the pulse rate from a quick or little longer time on. Not long enough to fold your mirrors.

There are Modules out there that can do window up for 2 windows, or 4 windows, then there are some that will do both up and down and some that offer up/down and with the ability to stop somewhere in between. Then there are some alarms out there that have a setup for command by how long you press the button on your remote and so on. Things for doing the sun roofs up and down or open and close and so on . again this is all programmed for the event it is going to do.

There are cars that can take a month of daily work of installs to get everything installed for all the options. Only thing it come down to in the end is what someone is willing to pay for options they want.

 

Yeah you're right. I shouldn't expect much from this cheap Chinese unit - I'll be better of taking the car to the dealer and see if the can activate this option or buy and install an high end locking system. But before that I should try to buy an original fob, programme it and see if all works.

This evening I remove 3 indicators and tried to connect to one indicator bulb and when I connected the blue and green separately, the fuse blew up. I think it's having -ve current feeding out?

 

Sorry to hear that, That was one of the reasons I thought it was important for the system to be opened up and pictures taken. It would be easier to know what is going on. At times I have seen that you can get things that don't have the wires setup in the right pins and things go wrong.

One of the biggest issues doing things blindly with any type of Control modules they are very week links and bad things can go bad fast.

It is very hard to install something without knowing what does what. For me if I didn't have a Manual or Install Diagram I would have taken it apart to figure out what it is doing and how I should connect things. With any luck it didn't damage the unit..

The Website with the Keyless that I post before. May not be a great unit but it does have options that will be more to what your looking for?

So I have to ask I guess Before you started hooking things up the only thing you didn't have was the OEM Key fob? Did the Door locks that were in there work with the switches installed in the car? It isn't clear why you want to install door locks when there were door locks installed OEM?

Then It is unclear if you were trying to connect the OEM Door locks with the module in your post trying to bypass the need for the Keyfob from the OEM system? Or you trying to install the Actuators and use them over the ones that were already in the car?

 

Take a look here, http://www.megatronixusa.com/manuals/DAKMWiring.pdf which makes MORE SENSE.

It's the responsibility of the alarm system to flash the lights, beep the horn not the door lock system.

The idea of a lock and unlock trigger from an alarm system makes sense where it says "to Alarm". Red/Black are power. No wires left.

Diodes - or at least in the use in alarms

1) They are placed in reverse across a relay coil to absorb the collapsing field.
2) There is a diode OR circuit and a diode AND circuit.

So, an example that I did in an older vehicle: I had a buzzer wired from the driver's door switch that went to ground and whatever the car did with that door switch. The car already had a diode. I added another so my door switch was sort of isolated form the rest of the car.

I connected that diode isolated switch to where +12 would be available when the parking lights were on. Now I had a "headlight reminder" that worked when the "parking/headlights were on" and the "driver's door was open". I did add an extra diode in series with the buzzer.

The buzzer had to be replaced periodically because of the high temperatures, but it worked for 15 years or so.

Lights blinking is a totally different project. Wait until you get an alarm system.

My $0.02.

 

Thanks guys!

It isn't clear why you want to install door locks when there were door locks installed OEM?
Then It is unclear if you were trying to connect the OEM Door locks with the module in your post trying to bypass the need for the Keyfob from the OEM system? Or you trying to install the Actuators and use them over the ones that were already in the car?

As I mentioned earlier, the car came without it's fob and the previous owner has used this Chinese unit to actuate driver's door lock actuator, which then using the ETACS system locks/unlocks rest 4 doors. As the main actuator is powered by an external source, the alarm
system is not working, therefore no flashing lights.

Heres the pics of the circuit board of the Chinese unit...theres a white button on top corner (k1) but don't know what that is for?







Cheers