I agree with SamR.
All wiring should be to the local code for commercial buildings, and a licensed Electrician needs to do the wiring.

Note that fusing/circuit-breakers are sized mainly to protect the wiring from over-current.
So you must have a fuse/breaker sized to protect the smallest wire in any chain.
This may require more than one fuse/breaker in the chain.

 

I'd start with a 20 amp 12 gauge extension to plug into some unstated outlet. The other end of the extension would terminate inside a breaker box (or fuse box). Since you don't demand too much of your circuitry I'd go with two 15 amp breakers and 14 gauge wiring running to half of all the plugs. the other half of them get the other circuit. Let me be clear - - - one set of plugs on one breaker. If you have 6 outlets, three of them on one breaker. The other three on the other breaker. That's not necessary, but that way if one line goes bad you still have the other line.

As for lighting - I'd go with 15 amps for however many lights you have. Go with LED lighting. In the breaker panel I'd wire into a 20 amp breaker. Since each line is running no more than 15 amps (you could even go with 10 amps if your load is that small) you don't want to overload the extension cord, which at 12 gauge would be rated for 20 amps.

 

Welcome to AAC! I would first consult DIN VDE 0100 which is the wiring code regulations for Germany and is EU compatible. DIN VDE 0100 - PDF Free Download (adoc.pub)
Here in the US, I would then hire a licensed Electrician to install the wiring to code since it appears that it would be a public accommodation.

hi thanks a lot, yes i think i will just hire a professional to do in the end. still nice to get my head around how i would do things in a world where codes and regulations don exist. still its not my budge so happy to farm it out to someone else

 

I'd start with a 20 amp 12 gauge extension to plug into some unstated outlet. The other end of the extension would terminate inside a breaker box (or fuse box). Since you don't demand too much of your circuitry I'd go with two 15 amp breakers and 14 gauge wiring running to half of all the plugs. the other half of them get the other circuit. Let me be clear - - - one set of plugs on one breaker. If you have 6 outlets, three of them on one breaker. The other three on the other breaker. That's not necessary, but that way if one line goes bad you still have the other line.

As for lighting - I'd go with 15 amps for however many lights you have. Go with LED lighting. In the breaker panel I'd wire into a 20 amp breaker. Since each line is running no more than 15 amps (you could even go with 10 amps if your load is that small) you don't want to overload the extension cord, which at 12 gauge would be rated for 20 amps.

ok great thanks, just to be clear if i did do it myself and i went with a female kettle plug with a 10A fuse wired to a MBC6A then to a 4 plug wall socket. that then daisy chained to a MBC6A and then to a 2plug wall socket.... would this jus trip all the time? i was under the idea that 20A would be too much power to be running off a domestic plug socket. as i say until tonight ive never given any thought about this stuff but im getting into it a bit.

 

 

how i would do things in a world where codes and regulations don exist.

In Germany? You may not be aware of them but there are regulations that must be abided by, or there will be stiff penalties if caught for not doing so. There are times when the old adage "it's easier to get forgiveness than permission" does not apply.

 

In Germany? You may not be aware of them but there are regulations that must be abided by, or there will be stiff penalties if caught for not doing so. There are times when the old adage "it's easier to get forgiveness than permission" does not apply.

no i hear you, totally fair enough

 

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amazing! thanks so much!

 

In Britain commercial property must be wired by a "competent person" (who may not necessarily be registered), but domestic property has to be wired by a "registered person" (who may not necessarily. . . . . . .)

Lighting should be on a circuit protected with a 6A breaker (I guess that Germany is the same)
The EN60309 connector would be exactly the same as would connect up a caravan to the electrical supply on a caravan site.

 

Yes, I was wondering about the mains voltage in Germany and the EU. Here in the US, commercial construction requires a Licensed Electrician and homes also depending on the local Governing Authority (where I live does not). Each state, county and city are different, but all depend on the National Fire Protection Associations National Electric Code section as the governing standard.

 

hi thanks a lot, yes i think i will just hire a professional to do in the end. still nice to get my head around how i would do things in a world where codes and regulations don exist. still its not my budge so happy to farm it out to someone else

I did some work for a couple who's house went up in flames due to a botched wiring job. It started randomly in the wall while they were watching TV.

 

Even licensed electricians can screw up.

I did a kitchen remodel and the first contractor forgot to reconnect my water heater (he installed a larger breaker panel). He had an apprentice, a big girl, installing wires and boxes in my attic. She popped a good portion of the drywall nails in the ceiling in my garage.

The replacement contractors made holes that were too large in my island cabinets. They covered up those goofs by using larger than normal outlet covers. The first time I went to use my generator with a manual transfer switch, I found that they wired it wrong. I was back energizing the power lines and had to rewire myself.

The general contractor put some wires in a hidden junction box which is a code violation. He also tried to mislead the inspector when he asked if there were any bedrooms in our basement. Code required a smoke detector to be retrofitted. I was there for the latter and spoke up. He also left a wire dangling in my furnace room. I still haven't checked to see if it's hot, but I pushed it out of the way.

The previous owner had a live wire poking out my garage wall. I found it one day when I was pressure washing and heard something buzzing/snapping.

Inspectors don't always catch what they're supposed to.

 

Were I doing this I would use make an input box that could handle more than one outside mains circuit, then put a minimal distribution panel inside the vehicle and otherwise wire it as you would a house.

The multiple circuits on the outside would allow for sufficient capacity in the edge cases where unexpected things get plugged in. It would require a bit of switching, or more simply, a patch panel to direct the outside circuit(s) to inside circuits so if you could only plug in one it would still work.

In the distribution panel I would put arc fault / ground fault interrupters for each circuit.

If I wasn’t going to do that, I wouldn’t put mains outlets at all and instead would use power strips and long extension cables. For convenience I would run the power strip cables to a box accessible to the outside and in there plug in long, appropriately sized extension cables with the ordinary connectors you’d find on them.

 

Even properly installed, inspected, and approved electrical installations should have regular safety inspections to ensure they remain usable. I have seen Class 1 Division 1 Explosive Atmosphere installations deteriorate to the point where broken fixtures and open wires were arcing and smoking due to the lack of maintenance.

 

Standard building wiring outlet boxes should work well, but as the system will be traveling, you need to use stranded wire of the correct gage for the supplied current source, with adequate insulation for the voltages used.
For the interconnections I suggest using the metal wrapped cable often referred to as "Greenfield", as this provides a good amount of mechanical protection for the wiring. For a mobile system that is a handy way to cover yourself regarding liabilities.

A single switch and circuit breaker panel can allow convenient control of the lighting and the fans. I also suggest a few more electrical outlets than you described, because needs will arise and being prepared is much easier than making changes.

And certainly the person doing the work needs to be competent and know the correct way to do the installation so that it is adequate and safe. Being licensed does not by any means assure you that any or all of the job will be satisfactory or pass an inspection. It does mean that the worker has paid the fees and signed the papers. In a nearby city I could be a licensed plumber if I paid $600, but that would not mean that I was good at it.