Cause i forget to lower the volume sometimes

If it's distorted, turn it down.
If you can't tell if it's distorted, why bother listening?

 

Cause i forget to lower the volume sometimes

Il just do this to save my speakers,

You could also put a fast-blow fuse in series with each speaker input.
For an 8 ohm, 30W speaker, a 2A fuse should likely protect the speaker against blowing.

If the above first statement is true, then you will likely want to keep a supply of fuses handy.

 

Many people play Acid Rock noise "music" that already have severe distortion then they turn up their amplifier so high that it is also producing clipping distortion. The delicate tweeters are the first to blow up. Then the woofer voice coils will be damaged by smashing against the magnet structure.

Yes, you can modify the wiring of powering the two amplifiers so that the stereo amplifier IC has less volts than the subwoofer amplifier IC. But then the stereo amplifiers will produce clipping that you might not hear and will blow up their tweeters.

 

Reducing the available power and then driving it into clipping, is likely to do more damage than having more power available but running undistorted. The high-frequency content of the clipping will damage the tweeters.

 

REducing the output power availability should also reduce the drive ability of the driver stages, if the entire section gets a reduced supply. So the resistor in series with the speaker makes sense and is the most easily reversed method, if the TS some day acquires higher power rated speakers, or simply another set of speakers.
And as for that remark about acid rock, the difference between intentional distortion of some instruments and the reproduction distortion is rather much.
rap, on the other hand, is horribly distorted before it is ever recorded.

 

So the resistor in series with the speaker makes sense and is the most easily reversed method

A resistor will reduce the damping factor for the speaker, and likely increase its resonant (ringing) distortion.
I think a fuse in series, as I suggested, would be better.

 

OK, how about a resistor in parallel with the speaker?? That will increase the damping.

 

A modern audio amplifier already has plenty of damping. A resistor parallel with the speaker might overload and overheat the amplifier.
A series resistor to reduce output power plus a parallel resistor to add a little amount of damping is silly.

 

A modern audio amplifier already has plenty of damping. A resistor parallel with the speaker might overload and overheat the amplifier.
A series resistor to reduce output power plus a parallel resistor to add a little amount of damping is silly.

I was responding to the crutschow post. Not at all arguing about the silly point.

 

OK, how about a resistor in parallel with the speaker?? That will increase the damping.

Good damping is having a source resistance less than an ohm.

So what's wrong with a fuse, which doesn't require power resistors, maintains the damping factor, and doesn't waste power?

 

For any reasonably powered amp and speakers, you will damage your ears before you damage the speakers. Typical listening levels in a normal sized room are about one watt average power.

 

Don't you want a sound system to produce loudness peaks with low distortion?

Loudness reduces 6dB with each doubling of distance. Many speakers produce 85dB at 1W/1m. Then 79dB at 2m and 73dB at 4m (12 feet?).
73dB is almost conversation level but sound level peaks could be 20dB higher at 93dB.
3dB is only double the power. 10dB more is 10 times the power and 20dB more is 100 times the power.

For a stereo sound system to produce unclipped 90dB for each stereo channel then the power must be 93dB - 73dB= 20dB more power than 1W= 100W!

If the average level is only 3dB louder than 73dB then the peaks will be 200W per channel.

 

What is wrong with a fuse is that it takes a finite time to clear when the rating is only slightly exceeded, and that time is much longer than what it takes to damage a speaker. So the damage would be done and then, possibly silence would follow, The worst of both situations,

And AG is evidently considering the type of music that only has occasional peaks, and not that stuff that is a constant 88dB level. The highly compressed/ volume leveled stuff that never backs off. Disco was the first type, then came other stuff.

 

Loudness reduces 6dB with each doubling of distance. Many speakers produce 85dB at 1W/1m. Then 79dB at 2m and 73dB at 4m (12 feet?).

Yes, if the speaker is suspended in the air far from any reflective surfaces.

 

Yes, if the speaker is suspended in the air far from any reflective surfaces.

A speaker sensitivity test is typically done outdoors in an open area, or in a sound anechoic chamber.

 

A speaker sensitivity test is typically done outdoors in an open area, or in a sound anechoic chamber.

That’s my point, it does not fall off the same way in an enclosed room. Outdoor sound systems need way more power to cover the same area as indoor systems.

 

I am thinking about the speakers on the car next to me on the expressway, on the winter with windows closed anf the heater bloer on, and what that person is playing is so loud that I can not hear the sound from my radio. Their windows are also closed. How loud must it be inside that car?

The simple solution for the TS will be a mechanical stop on the bass channel volume control. Just figure the voltage that equals the maximum allowable watts, , and then measure the voltage at he speaker while increasing the volume setting, Then add the mmechanical sop to prevent it being set any louder. Simple, easy, cheap, and totally reversible, AND it allows maximum efficiency

 

Yes, if the speaker is suspended in the air far from any reflective surfaces.

Yes, many people today have hard surfaces in their homes so that they can clean them with a high pressure hose. Echo, echo and echo.

 

Yes, many people today have hard surfaces in their homes so that they can clean them with a high pressure hose. Echo, echo and echo.

So, what I should have padded walls?

Maybe not such a bad idea!

 

My living room and family room have nice soft carpets that absorb any echoes. The ceilings have a texture that also absorbs any echoes. The rooms are not perfectly square so there is no resonance.

My new hearing aids have digital noise reduction that might be using a digital echo canceller IC.