Hi, new today and first post... I need somebody’s help.

I have an electric cutout on my exhaust which bypasses the muffler when I choose to. It came with a wireless remote that when I click it the motor opens the flap all the way and click again it closes.

I want to change that to a toggle switch so I can open it as much or as little as I want.

I need a basic circuit where I move the toggle up and it opens, down and it closes and centre.. nothing. The car supplies 12v and the motor is 12v. Although the car when running shows 14.1v (will this be an issue?) could someone help me with this circuit.

The kit came with a little box that controls all the electrickery currently but I want to remove it.

Thanks

 

I have an electric cutout on my exhaust which bypasses the muffler when I choose to.

Is that road-legal where you live?
Welcome to AAC!

 

Is that road-legal where you live?
Welcome to AAC!

Yes, as it’s closed on the road and going through the standard muffler. When on private roads and tracks I can open it to allow the exhaust to flow better.

Do you have any knowledge as to my circuit help?

 

How about this, using a 2-pole 3-throw switch (centre-off)? It's as basic as it gets.


However, you will probably need to incorporate limit switches to switch off the motor at the fully-open or fully-closed position of the cutout. What current does the motor draw when stalled?

 

That looks great, although I shouldn’t. Need limit switches as I can hear when it’s fully closed or fully open quite well so I’d just take my finger off the switch. Can I get a switch that centres automatically when I take my finger off? I’m not sure on the motor load or what you mean by stalled. I’ll have to take a look on the controller that came with the kit and see if it’s got any info on it.

 

Can I get a switch that centres automatically when I take my finger off?

Yes, what you want is typically called a MOM-OFF-MOM DPDT which will give you the center position OFF. Depending on your location they are pretty common and available from plenty of manufacturers. The MOM is for Momentary and the switch on release springs back to the center off position. You wire it exactly as Alec shows in the drawing. Just make sure the switch is rated for the cutout motor current which likely isn't very high.

Ron

 

Can I get a switch that centres automatically when I take my finger off?

Yes. As Ron says, e.g. one of these. Quite expensive if handling large DC currents.

 

lets say I cannot find the current rating. What would be a safe amps given the motor is doing very little work and it’s about the size of a D battery.

 

Hi, new today and first post... I need somebody’s help.

I have an electric cutout on my exhaust which bypasses the muffler when I choose to. It came with a wireless remote that when I click it the motor opens the flap all the way and click again it closes.

I want to change that to a toggle switch so I can open it as much or as little as I want.

I need a basic circuit where I move the toggle up and it opens, down and it closes and centre.. nothing. The car supplies 12v and the motor is 12v. Although the car when running shows 14.1v (will this be an issue?) could someone help me with this circuit.

The kit came with a little box that controls all the electrickery currently but I want to remove it.

Thanks

You'd do better with the snail cam type used in the Yamaha YPVS. Theirs is controlled by the ECU and has feedback to manage exhaust port opening size. You might even be able to do it with an RC servo if you figure out linkages that don't conduct enough heat to melt it.

 

I’d love to have something like that but money’s tight. Got one of them eBay type things but the quality of the item is good. Just doesn’t do what I want. It’s either fully open or fully closed and when it’s open all the way it’s to darn loud.

 

I’d love to have something like that but money’s tight. Got one of them eBay type things but the quality of the item is good. Just doesn’t do what I want. It’s either fully open or fully closed and when it’s open all the way it’s to darn loud.

just like the earlier air cooled RDs - quite a few of the LC models became untidy heaps of wreckage at the roadside. salvage could be an option if you have to tools to make it fit your application.

 

It’s either fully open or fully closed and when it’s open all the way it’s to darn loud.

Any of those cutouts I'm familiar with, that's the way they work. Never heard of one that only opened part way.

 

Any of those cutouts I'm familiar with, that's the way they work. Never heard of one that only opened part way.

I’ve seen several that open part way. The QTP ones open how you want them. They’re just all out my price range.

 

Most of these which come as a kit use either 1 or 2 small DC high torque gear motors. Most kits, and this is pretty generic, include an inline fuse. Now if your system has a fuse do you know what it is rated at? That will give you an idea of what the motor max current would be.

Ron

 

Most of these which come as a kit use either 1 or 2 small DC high torque gear motors. Most kits, and this is pretty generic, include an inline fuse. Now if your system has a fuse do you know what it is rated at? That will give you an idea of what the motor max current would be.

Ron

It came with a box with all sorts of things going on inside it. I’ll open it up and take a look. Thanks for the info.

 

It came with a box with all sorts of things going on inside it. I’ll open it up and take a look. Thanks for the info.

Let us know because if it has a fuse it will make it easier to make an educated guess as to a switch.

Ron

 

Let us know because if it has a fuse it will make it easier to make an educated guess as to a switch.

Ron

I’ve been searching google and the same sort of more expensive cutout exhaust uses a switch to open and close it and on the side of a few of them it says 3A250V

 

Pretty standard 3 amp fuse which sounds about right. Any DPDT Momentary - Off - Momentary should work as long as it can handle about 5 amps should do fine. Keep in mind these motors are normally gear motors designed for high torque. Without limit switches when you exceed the throw of the butterfly in the pipe(s) the motor goes into a stall so motor current will increase dramatically and there is a good possibility you will blow a fuse. There is also a possibility that less any fuse you could strip a gear head. I would fuse it with maybe a 3 to 5 amp inline automotive type fuse and see how it works out. Not knowing your location any electrical parts house should have the switch and if you get a switch with 1/4" spade lugs any auto parts store should have crimp connectors. They may also have a switch and inline fuse holder.

Ron

 

Add a couple of diodes (could be part of a bridge rectifier) and two suitably rated "poly switches" that are resettable fuses. That will protect the motor.

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/e...use_ptc_ruef400_product_specification.pdf.pdf
These are 4A ones but they are available in a wide current and voltage range.
Install them where they will not get hot as the are operated by heat.

 

This is the module that came with the item, there’s no inline fuses. I have it wired in to my cigarette lighter then it goes through this device and straight to the motor. And a little remote with 2 buttons opens and closes it. Also the three pins that haven’t got anything soldered control the device to but it still opens and closes fully. So I would have to remove this box and just make the circuit you guys have mentioned