Yes I can spin it by hand. The fan itself is just a plastic attachment to the motor. The motor appears sealed. Am going to try and get into it if possible ...

Been 11 months, were you able to fix it?

Moderator edit: New thread created from this.

 

What I see is that, just as Max stated, this is a split phase induction motor. And unfortunately there is a thermal fuse buried inside the winding someplace. If you had to shake it to get the blower to start then probably the capacitor has failed. That does happen. One of the wires to the capacitor is the line hot side, fed through the thermal fuse. The other wire to the capacitor is the second phase. If you are able to read resistance with your continuity check device then both sides of the capacitor should have about the same resistance to the white wire, and the resistance between the two sides of the capacitor should be about the sum of the other two readings. It might also be that the capacitor has become short circuited inside. In either case the capacitor would need to be replaced. If this device is used outside then the hazard of a fire is minimal and that thermal fuse will not be required. BUT it is vital that the motor spin very freely, no binding at all.

 

Been 11 months, were you able to fix it?

Unfortunately not. I wasnt able to get the time to get into the motor housing.

 

Unfortunately not. I wasnt able to get the time to get into the motor housing.

I have same issue with inflator fan. Spins freely, has power to it but dies not run. And cannot find a new motor (YEF-7125) let alone the whole complete fan assembly.

 

If the two windings are not burned or open, and the motor spins freely, then probably the capacitor is the problem. And if the motor is powered but does not run, then that thermal fuse will open. So you do need to be able to measure resistance, less than 200 ohms, usually, to do the checking. No simple way to check the capacitor without a capacitor tester, except by substitution.
The check for burned windings on the motor is to check for resistance between the connection wires and the motor frame. It needs to be over a megohm if there is no problem.