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KeepItSimpleStupid
- Joined Mar 4, 2014
- 5,088
Can you replace the imobilizer relay with a DPDT relay and use the other pole to disable the door poppers?
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
Car alarm and door popper
- Thread starter Bluemonkey
- Start date
I am not sure if they just have it hidden or it just isn't there lol. However you need to test your Outputs that are on the Alarm system. There are some outputs that are ground again one is the Yellow one that i was talking about some post back that needs to be tested to see if it is Ground when Armed.
Having the guts out in the cars floor, you in the car door closed, Arm the alarm and test
Connector 1
Yellow Immobiliser
Red/Black Interior Light
Pink Boot Release (Trunk)
Red This gives a 30second on for window roll up
These connections are all -250ma and would require a Relay to make something function however you can test for the item working with a DMM, I wouldn't use a standard light bulb as they are not very strong on the ground.
Arm the alarm What did the Yellow wire do? does it go to ground or Open?
Disarm alarm Red/Black I would assume that would give a 20 to 30 second output for Interior light illumination?
Pink Pressing a Button on the Remote would Release the TRUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PRESS the BUTTON on the Remote besides what you press the arm and disarm and see if it gives you a Ground output
Red. Arm the alarm and the Red should turn on for 30 seconds or so to roll up the windows with a Window module sold/bought separately
If the Yellow is Ground when armed. This would be Ground the whole time the alarm is armed (By the way they have it setup in manual I would assume it won't be ground when armed. However ground when disarmed only.
That brings me to the PINK and this is where things can get done right or well. 1 It would be nice to really set this up the way it should be and that is Arm the alarm and system protects the car. Disarm the alarm and Press trunk release button and your door opens. Then you can get in car and have buttons on the inside to open doors and so on. However there are no buttons outside. If there was one needed/wanted for other door then it could be setup with a simple system of your disarm your alarm, Press trunk release your door opens on drivers door and at the same time a Relay is latched that would let the outside switch on passenger side be working able. This could be setup with a Relay latch or a 555 timer. Also might be able to set it up other ways as well.
However seeing I can't seem to find a good Ground when armed output on your alarm I would say the best bet is the Pink wire. Only issue is that what you have it setup as right now would need to be removed so someone wouldn't be able to open your door when alarm is armed.
James
Having the guts out in the cars floor, you in the car door closed, Arm the alarm and test
Connector 1
Yellow Immobiliser
Red/Black Interior Light
Pink Boot Release (Trunk)
Red This gives a 30second on for window roll up
These connections are all -250ma and would require a Relay to make something function however you can test for the item working with a DMM, I wouldn't use a standard light bulb as they are not very strong on the ground.
Arm the alarm What did the Yellow wire do? does it go to ground or Open?
Disarm alarm Red/Black I would assume that would give a 20 to 30 second output for Interior light illumination?
Pink Pressing a Button on the Remote would Release the TRUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PRESS the BUTTON on the Remote besides what you press the arm and disarm and see if it gives you a Ground output
Red. Arm the alarm and the Red should turn on for 30 seconds or so to roll up the windows with a Window module sold/bought separately
If the Yellow is Ground when armed. This would be Ground the whole time the alarm is armed (By the way they have it setup in manual I would assume it won't be ground when armed. However ground when disarmed only.
That brings me to the PINK and this is where things can get done right or well. 1 It would be nice to really set this up the way it should be and that is Arm the alarm and system protects the car. Disarm the alarm and Press trunk release button and your door opens. Then you can get in car and have buttons on the inside to open doors and so on. However there are no buttons outside. If there was one needed/wanted for other door then it could be setup with a simple system of your disarm your alarm, Press trunk release your door opens on drivers door and at the same time a Relay is latched that would let the outside switch on passenger side be working able. This could be setup with a Relay latch or a 555 timer. Also might be able to set it up other ways as well.
However seeing I can't seem to find a good Ground when armed output on your alarm I would say the best bet is the Pink wire. Only issue is that what you have it setup as right now would need to be removed so someone wouldn't be able to open your door when alarm is armed.
James
Hi James, I will try this on the weekend, I went through and tested the sensors and they are all positive so no go there. I will also try the DPDT on the immobizier that could work, fingers crossed. my concern with the boot wiring is that it is a pulse only, so the door switches will be operate when it is alarmed becasue the pulse was only short
thanks again for your continued guidance and support, we will get there i am sure
Craig
thanks again for your continued guidance and support, we will get there i am sure
Craig
Not sure you understand what I am talking about doing with the Boot output...
So that output would be used for the Pop of the door. So rather then having the Pop how you have it now, You would use the Output as the way to pop your door rather then the trunk/boot....
Then if you wanted to have a switch on the passenger side. You can setup a 555 timer circuit that could give you a timed output or as simple as you opening it from inside.
You could also use Relays to build a Latched output without having to build a timer circuit. This would work say. you disarm the alarm, It unlocks the doors, then you press the Trunk/Boot button and it pops the drivers door open at that same time the relays for the passenger door latches to make it so the outside switch for the door will work. Then when you start the car or turn the car on it would unlatch the relay for your passengers door
So to be Clear. On the drivers door there wouldn't be a switch from outside to open door only on the remote. Again in all ways there should always be a backup to get into the car if the battery happens to die, This is with a Hidden cable that in all times every built was behind a locked panel to the car.
So that output would be used for the Pop of the door. So rather then having the Pop how you have it now, You would use the Output as the way to pop your door rather then the trunk/boot....
Then if you wanted to have a switch on the passenger side. You can setup a 555 timer circuit that could give you a timed output or as simple as you opening it from inside.
You could also use Relays to build a Latched output without having to build a timer circuit. This would work say. you disarm the alarm, It unlocks the doors, then you press the Trunk/Boot button and it pops the drivers door open at that same time the relays for the passenger door latches to make it so the outside switch for the door will work. Then when you start the car or turn the car on it would unlatch the relay for your passengers door
So to be Clear. On the drivers door there wouldn't be a switch from outside to open door only on the remote. Again in all ways there should always be a backup to get into the car if the battery happens to die, This is with a Hidden cable that in all times every built was behind a locked panel to the car.
Hi James
I now understand what you are saying regarding the boot ouput. just trying to take this further, could i continue to have the door popper buttons on the inside and outside, but use the boot output to a latching relay that sends signal to the relay to work or not? or am i back to square one.
The other option is i am thinking of getting a new alarm that has a negative out put so we can do what we have been discussing.
i will trying the DPDT on the immobizer, this weekend, when the car is immobised it stops the popper relay from working when it is no immobized the relay for the popper works, or i could have it distrupt the popper actuators in the doors?
my F100 56 for you to see https://www.instagram.com/r.a.l.p.h.y/
thanks Craig
I now understand what you are saying regarding the boot ouput. just trying to take this further, could i continue to have the door popper buttons on the inside and outside, but use the boot output to a latching relay that sends signal to the relay to work or not? or am i back to square one.
The other option is i am thinking of getting a new alarm that has a negative out put so we can do what we have been discussing.
i will trying the DPDT on the immobizer, this weekend, when the car is immobised it stops the popper relay from working when it is no immobized the relay for the popper works, or i could have it distrupt the popper actuators in the doors?
my F100 56 for you to see https://www.instagram.com/r.a.l.p.h.y/
thanks Craig
Well you could do a Latch relay system, use the trunk pop to latch the relays however there would have to be something to unlatch them as well. Another thing you could do is set it up on a 555 timer system. It wouldn't be as easy as a latching relay but would work for a set time. There is another option that I am kind of a Firm believer in. that is If there is something built already why build it..
So there is a Module out there by DEI. It comes in many names from them but still a DEI product and that is called a 611T Most times they can be found on Ebay for around 20 or less. Anyone asking for more is off the Rocker and needs less beer...
One of the features of this is a Timer, from 1 to 100 seconds. Also works with a Ground or + outputs to what it is going to work. and is changed by dip switch placements...
about changing your setup. There is some things that you could do with a Better system.
One thing I will offer as a safety measure if you will. If you were to setup your switches on the outside to work only with command by your alarm or keyless system I would make sure that the Relay cuts the 12v that powers the door poppers. Reason being someone may gain access to the switch back side and if the ground was missing only could get ground from the body. To get the 12v to power the system would not be so easy and not many people are running around with battery on them. However without some special wiring at the switches it could be defeated. With using a Good output like the Trunk pop or another channel if your system offered extras there is no access from the outside... So with access outside leave an un secure system.
James
So there is a Module out there by DEI. It comes in many names from them but still a DEI product and that is called a 611T Most times they can be found on Ebay for around 20 or less. Anyone asking for more is off the Rocker and needs less beer...
One of the features of this is a Timer, from 1 to 100 seconds. Also works with a Ground or + outputs to what it is going to work. and is changed by dip switch placements...
about changing your setup. There is some things that you could do with a Better system.
One thing I will offer as a safety measure if you will. If you were to setup your switches on the outside to work only with command by your alarm or keyless system I would make sure that the Relay cuts the 12v that powers the door poppers. Reason being someone may gain access to the switch back side and if the ground was missing only could get ground from the body. To get the 12v to power the system would not be so easy and not many people are running around with battery on them. However without some special wiring at the switches it could be defeated. With using a Good output like the Trunk pop or another channel if your system offered extras there is no access from the outside... So with access outside leave an un secure system.
James
