Camera Won't Turn On With A New Battery

Thread Starter

ravelrm

Joined Sep 28, 2020
7
Hi --

I have a film camera with an LCD in the rear that says that the battery inside doesn't have enough juice in it to actually *use* the camera, even though it has a brand new lithium battery.

Would anyone happen to know what component(s) would fail in order for a circuit like this to have running power through it, but supposedly not enough for the whole circuit? The camera in question is a Konica Big Mini BM-302. Other people have had similar problems including battery drain, but haven't found any kind of solution. Thanks.
 

Thread Starter

ravelrm

Joined Sep 28, 2020
7
Some additional info -- most buttons (except for the auto date buttons which are in their own separate section) are operational, including the ones to change camera settings, but attempting to power on the camera or to do other things like rewind the film (though there's no film inside) or even pressing the shutter button prompt the camera battery icon to blink in to remind you that the battery's low. Other similar symptoms of this issue seem to be that this camera at some point runs hot and then just stops working as it's supposed to.

Is there any basic testing I should be making inside? Should connecting some batteries in serial mode to add more voltage through the camera give it some sort of boost to turn on?
 

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dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
11,506
it is the same, and I bought it brand new
Have you measured the voltage? Did you charge it before you tried to use it?

I bought some new AAA NiMH batteries that were DOA. I didn't care because they were on clearance and only cost a few cents each.
 

drc_567

Joined Dec 29, 2008
882
... A frequent battery problem is metal contact surfaces that become inefficient conductors due to various reasons ... oxidation, residues such as spilled drinks, insufficient spring pressure. The simplest remedy to try is a generous spray of electrical contact cleaner in the battery compartment. Use the actual contact cleaner product, not something else. Then allow a few minutes to dry.
 

Thread Starter

ravelrm

Joined Sep 28, 2020
7
Have you measured the voltage? Did you charge it before you tried to use it?
I measured the voltage last night and it read something like 3.2V.

... A frequent battery problem is metal contact surfaces that become inefficient conductors due to various reasons ... oxidation, residues such as spilled drinks, insufficient spring pressure. The simplest remedy to try is a generous spray of electrical contact cleaner in the battery compartment. Use the actual contact cleaner product, not something else. Then allow a few minutes to dry.
Is there a specific product you'd recommend?
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
11,506
Just on its own, not connected to anything else.
A weak battery can show the expected voltage with no load. The camera is checking voltage with the battery having some load; not the highest possible load, but it's doing a more realistic check than you are.
 

drc_567

Joined Dec 29, 2008
882
Most contact cleaners come in a spray can and are available at local hardware stores in the US. However, don't get contact cleaner cleaner confused with any of the silicone spray or water displacement products, which are completely different.
 

Thread Starter

ravelrm

Joined Sep 28, 2020
7
A weak battery can show the expected voltage with no load. The camera is checking voltage with the battery having some load; not the highest possible load, but it's doing a more realistic check than you are.
What would be the easiest way to do that? I just bought a multimeter and most of the videos I’ve searched on voltage drop how-to’s go through a lot of theory but not precisely on how to do it unless it’s car batteries. I kinda know what to look for when it comes to terminals that don’t work or have oxide on them, and to not touch the caps terminals, but that’s the extent of my experience with electronics. I attached pictures for support.
 

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dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
11,506
What would be the easiest way to do that?
Attached in the datasheet for Energizer EL123AP that they say is a replacement for CR123 and other *123 batteries.

They show a drain of 1200-1800mA for photoflash:
1601341117744.png
Since the battery is rated for 1500mAH, I'd try a load of 150mA on the battery and see if the voltage drops significantly. 3V @ 0.15A is 0.45W so use an appropriate wattage resistor.
 

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andrewmm

Joined Feb 25, 2011
574
a) try a second battery from a different supplier,
b) check the battery is in the correct way round !
c) are there more than one battery in the item ? the button could be used for the RC, and there is a bigger battery for th edisplay that needs charging / replacing
 

Thread Starter

ravelrm

Joined Sep 28, 2020
7
So I did a little more prying and found a few points with what looks like oxide around an ic and a capacitor — can I use that cleaner on those points? Or should I try to replace them? If so, how do I go about searching for those replacement parts? Thanks again y’all for helping this noob


a) try a second battery from a different supplier,
b) check the battery is in the correct way round !
c) are there more than one battery in the item ? the button could be used for the RC, and there is a bigger battery for th edisplay that needs charging / replacing
There’s no other battery and in fact the manual says to just reset the date when the battery is replaced; the camera works to an extent when I test it though. I might look at the display innards later
 

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drc_567

Joined Dec 29, 2008
882
... One or two of those solder pins look a little questionable. Contact cleaner might give more detail in order to see what the actual connection looks like. If there is a void of some sort, it may be a good idea to reheat the joint and add a touch of fresh solder. Are you able to detect any 'looseness' in the component that is on the other side, or are both ends solid?
 
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