Building a guitar amplifier

Audioguru

Joined Dec 20, 2007
11,249
When there is no signal, the voltage at C16 is zero because the LT1001 opamp has a very low input bias current and the voltage across R17 is also at zero, then there is no POP.
But when there is a signal then you might be switching when there is a fairly high signal level or a level clamped by the distortion diodes which results in a POP unless you ramp down the signal level for a moment before switching then ramp it back up after switching.
 

Audioguru

Joined Dec 20, 2007
11,249
You made the (+) input of opamp U10 at 0V with R6 (before the input was floating) when the switch was turned to the right side. Then C17 is not needed and the "POP fix" is not a filter.
 

Thread Starter

drk

Joined Mar 8, 2008
41
So, I've built the amplifier (and it works!) :)

I've upload the schematics/pictures etc to here, to keep it in one place.

Here's a video showing it off.

Just one last thing, I'm using this to 'hold' the leds, but that doesn't really lock them. How would you hold them in place? I can only think of using glue lol
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
23,559
Congratulations! Nice work.

I would have used shielded cables on all the pot connections.
If you are getting AC hum pickup you can try doing this.

What amplifier are you using to drive the speaker?
 

Thread Starter

drk

Joined Mar 8, 2008
41
Thanks!
The amp is really quiet, so I don't think it needs it, but its an idea in case I have noise (I only tested at home).

The amplifier is the LM4700 IC.
 
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