Break contact switch / audio player - Can't find components

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
Hi All,

Preface: Completely new to this, and electronics in general, so full on explain it like I'm 5 is fine with me

Objective: I have a cupboard, the idea is when the cupboard is opened, a pre-recorded audio clip is played (even better if I can have a bank of audio clips and it play one at random, but if not, a single clip is fine). Clip should only plays once, not continuously.

Approach: Seems to me, I'd need the audio player, hooked up to some metal switch, with one contact placed either side of the door and door frame, so when the door is opened, the contact breaks, and sets the audio recorder/player to play the clip.

So...
1) How do I go about hooking up the audio recorder/player to the break contact switch?
2) Any ideas on what to actually search for to find the break switch component, because I can't for the life of me find anything, but i'm 99% sure I'm googling the wrong things
3) Any other advice on the execution of this / any recommendations on a decent audio recorder/player? (Found this on amazon, but it plays on the push of a button, as oppose to the break of a contact: Can't seem to post the link, but it's called EZSound Box - Front Play Button)

Thanks for any help
(If needed / useful, can upload photos of the cupboard door etc.)
 

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
Ah thank you, Much appreciated.
Can I literally just twist the ends together for these to work out the box pretty much?
I presume if connected to the RLAYE mode, a constant break in the circuit (i.e. doors left open) would still only play the recording once?
If the door contact has a load of 300mA, and the recorder operates at 3-5V, would that not be too much for the 0.5W speaker?
Would a microphone / digital input need to be purchased separately as I don't think I see any way of recording the audio clip?
What is the SP1 connector bit for?
 

SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
1,151
That's pretty much it. Just add a coin battery holder and battery and a bit of wire.
 

SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
1,151
It includes the mike and speaker, not sure if it is play on break contact or close. It is not very long-play, only 10 seconds.
 

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
10 seconds should be JUST about okay.
Is there an easy way to invert the signal if it is the wrong one? Presumably it only plays once through rather than continuously?
 

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
Ah I was going to guess play on break if it is intended as an alarm sensor.
How would I go about inverting it? I'm guessing I'd just connect it in line on one side between the sensor and the board?

Do I need anything for the SP1 connection? Is that where I would connect the coin battery holder? Do I need to do anything to reduce the power, as it looks like to me it would output a power of 0.9 - 1.5 W for the 0.5W speaker?
 

iimagine

Joined Dec 20, 2010
388
Do I need anything for the SP1 connection? Is that where I would connect the coin battery holder? Do I need to do anything to reduce the power, as it looks like to me it would output a power of 0.9 - 1.5 W for the 0.5W speaker?
SP1 is the speaker connection.
VCC and GND is where you connect the battery. I hope you know that VCC is + and GND is -
What makes you think it would output 0.9 to 1.5W?
 

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
Okay, that makes sense to me, thank you both!

So, can just ignore the SP1 thing? and the power rating of the speaker shouldn't be a problem?
 

SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
1,151
Can I literally just twist the ends together for these to work
You are going to have to do some very basic soldering to connect the battery holder and maybe on the switch connections and taping all the connections. Pretty basic stuff.
 

SamR

Joined Mar 19, 2019
1,151
The speaker is about what you hear in a greeting card. Not very far carrying but hearable.
 

Thread Starter

Nicholas Mason

Joined Aug 18, 2019
25
SP1 is the speaker connection.
VCC and GND is where you connect the battery. I hope you know that VCC is + and GND is -
What makes you think it would output 0.9 to 1.5W?
Ah I see - probably should've guessed that to be honest.
Erm... I do now. I have literally never played with a circuit board since a project I wasn't very good at in high school about 17 years ago, so let's call it a learning experience - got to start somewhere. Still, thank you for all the help, it is greatly appreciated.
I went down the line of P=I*V, it says load current is 300mA, and voltage is 3-5V, so 0.3*5 = 1.5W

Probably easier to use micro limit switch such as [link]

I'm sure that is not the cheapest price but use it instead of the mag switch if necessary. You will find VCC + and gnd - terminals on the ckt board to connect the battery holder.
That's fine; cost is no major issue. How does the micro limit switch fit in?

Schematic of the sound module:
[link]
Thank you, that's cleared up some of my outstanding other light queries

You are going to have to do some very basic soldering to connect the battery holder and maybe on the switch connections and taping all the connections. Pretty basic stuff.
I see - might have to 'borrow' the soldering iron at work for a little bit. So basically just on every available point of connection?

The speaker is about what you hear in a greeting card. Not very far carrying but hearable.
It needs to carry about 110cm (in air obviously), with the speaker pointing away from the direction of the listener. Or about 140cm with the speaker at 90degrees to the listener. I think that should be reasonable with a greeting card type speaker.

Oh and welcome to AAC and good luck!
Thank you!! Nice to feel welcomed and have such quick and helpful responses. Here's hoping all goes well


Is the PNP transistor is a non-specific component, anything labelled PNP transistor should be fine?
 
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