I am curious as to what could be different with Duracell batteries enough to cause a problem.
I have a TV/Android box that uses an air-mouse, I recently had to change the AAA batteries and the instructions specifically mention Do Not Use Duracell Batteries.
Only having this brand on hand I thought I would try it, the unit worked OK except for repeated freezing of the mouse arrow, hitting another button got it going but it was painful to use this way.
Changed the batteries next day and voilà it works again.
Any suggestions as to the cause?
Max.

 

hi Max,
Is this any help.?
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3851153?tstart=0
E

 

hi Max,
Is this any help.?

Thanks but does not really describe the problem I see, which is it works in every other respect except the mouse arrow freeze.
The manual does not specifically say why not to use them.
Max.

 

Right now my Targus Brand wireless mouse is loaded with Ray-o-vac batteries and it works just fine.
That's odd because I usually have Duracell, and I remember hating that wireless mouse for hanging all the time.
I will pay attention and let you know if CopperTops make my mouse sick.

 

Could it be that the + connection on Duracell cells is not quite as high above the rest of the top of the cell as on other makes ? This could mean that the plastic moulding that holds the + contact in the device made contact with the top of the cell at abount the same time as the + contacts made contact ? This could mean that the contact was slightly high resistance or intermittent.

Les.

 

Could it be that the + connection on Duracell cells is not quite as high above the rest of the top of the cell as on other makes ? This could mean that the plastic moulding that holds the + contact in the device made contact with the top of the cell at abount the same time as the + contacts made contact ? This could mean that the contact was slightly high resistance or intermittent.
Les.

But they affect one particular function only?
I would expect intermittent operation on other functions.
Max.

 

Most likley because they leak even when they are not dead.
I call them DuraLeek's
they did not used to LEEK they were the only ones i used untill about 5 years ago.

 

Hi Max,
Yes I agree. I can't imagine that there can be much difference in the chemistry between different manufacturers cells. I'm pretty sure when I tested the voltage of new alkaline cells from different manufacturers they have all been about 1.6 volts. I assume the air mouse uses IR to communicate so there would be quite large current pulses driving the IR emitter. If the cells has high internal resistance the the short drop in voltage could effect the electronics. One quick method I use to test the internal resistance of NiMh cells it connect them to my ESR meter via a 0.47 uF mylar capacitor. The capacitor has almost zero ESR so the reading is the internal resistance of the cell.

Les.

 

Most likley because they leak even when they are not dead.
I call them DuraLeek's
they did not used to LEEK they were the only ones i used untill about 5 years ago.

But why show the condition as soon as loaded.

 

I wore out the Ray-o-vacs and installed Copper-tops a few weeks ago. No problems.
@MaxHeadRoom

 

Probably a mechanical issue. I've designed *lots* of battery compartments over the years. One thing you learn quick is to test your design against every possible battery manufacturer. The construction of the contacts (especially the positive contact on AA/AAA/C/D batteries) seems not to be so much of a standard (or, if it is, not well followed).

Often, a designer is tempted to add a positive terminal interlock so as to prevent connection with reversed batteries. Unless thoroughly tested against all possible batteries your customers may purchase, inevitably you discover brands of batteries that will not work with your design.

After doing this for over 100 years, I am confident in saying that the battery compartment is the most difficult part of any design to get right.

 

I would have thought if it was the battery connection it would shut the whole unit off, it just appears to go into hibernation prematurely with the arrow still displayed but frozen, any key brings it back.
This is not the same as the normal hibernation where all functions go off, including the arrow, and comes back to life on a button press.
Max.

 

I would have thought if it was the battery connection it would shut the whole unit off, it just appears to go into hibernation prematurely with the arrow still displayed but frozen, any key brings it back.
This is not the same as the normal hibernation where all functions go off, including the arrow, and comes back to life on a button press.
Max.

The contact could be intermittent due to shock, vibration, or just general motion. Perhaps the disconnect is not long enough to reset the CPU, but just enough to throw it into some anomalous state.

 

Intermittent power contact that creates a pulse train, which is coupled to a data line or reset line and glitches the micro.

 

Interesting. So hitting a button stresses the case just enough to put the battery back in contact? Could we confirm the size question by putting a chunk of aluminum foil, washer, or such in the battery compartment to add that silly mm to the Duracell batteries?

 

@MaxHeadRoom
My wireless mouse has developed hiccups as the Coppertops decline in value.
I keep a USB mouse plugged in so I can jog the computer into responding while the wireless mouse is in mutiny mode. That never lasts for a whole minute.

 

I may make some more definitive tests this W.E. There is a LED that lights when it is woken up, If I confirm it is on when the mouse arrow freezes then it is not a connection issue.
Max.