Hey guys,

Last night I got the motor running! I want to thank you all very much. Without you guys, I couldn't have done this as safe.

The motor still runs fantastic! I didn't notice any problems with it.

I removed the fan before turning it on, grounded it and clamped it down. And when I turned it on, I was surprised at how smoothly it runs. Considering its shape and how long it probably hasn't been ran. It didn't smell, sound, feel or look strange in any regard. I also did a safe test of how much of a kick/jump it would give if I didn't clamp it down. It only moves a little bit, so that's great. I ran it for about 18 minutes straight before it got like coverable shower temperature hot. That's probably the best way to describe it since I didn't measure it. Now I know the unit is in good shape, I'm willing to spend some money and patch it up. I'm trying to find a fitting fan, although I don't know if I can get my hands on a proper fitting one. How strong must these things be? I could get it 3D printed, but it's like a school 3D printer, so I don't really trust that. I hope I can get my hands on something because it would be great if I could increase the runtime. I also had a look at how the cooling works, I was amazed! my love for technology and physics really pleased me. Just so interesting to see that the fan pulls wind trough those fins (which increase surface area) and that heat-conducting metal cools the unit off. I also want to order some cable lugs. I now for have just clamped the bare wire underneath te bolts for test purposes. But if I want to use the motor often and keep it around for a long time I want to do it properly.

Thank you all so much!!

Niels

 

Where is the capacitor?

 

Where is the capacitor?

Sorry, I don't know what that is

 

Where is the capacitor?

MOST of the TEFC motors do not use a capacitor, partly because they do run warmer than open motors..

 

the drawing inside the motor shows "CB" connected between N And Z2. That is a capacitor. I do not see a capacitor connected there. Is it inside the motor? Does your motor have trouble starting?

 

MOST of the TEFC motors do not use a capacitor, partly because they do run warmer than open motors..

This motor is definitely supposed to have one. 40uF specifically.

 

the drawing inside the motor shows "CB" connected between N And Z2. That is a capacitor. I do not see a capacitor connected there. Is it inside the motor? Does your motor have trouble starting?

My motor doesn't have trouble with anything as far as I can tell. It runs smoothly and doesn't have issues with starting.

 

My motor doesn't have trouble with anything as far as I can tell. It runs smoothly and doesn't have issues with starting.

Ok. Maybe a capacitor is indeed connected, just not visible. If it were not there, I would expect trouble starting and/or running hot.

 

Does it run the same direction every time you start it?

 

There is a bit of a note about "CB" visible in at least one of the photos. But I can't read it as the focus is off a bit and possibly the language is different. I do see a cord exiting under the box with the other end going into what may have been the fan shroud. Perhaps the cap is in the fan shroud.

I also noticed what looks like a chunk missing from the end cover of the motor. That might be an issue eventually. Certainly it tells that the motor is no longer totally enclosed.

 

Does it run the same direction every time you start it?

Yes it does

 

There is a bit of a note about "CB" visible in at least one of the photos. But I can't read it as the focus is off a bit and possibly the language is different. I do see a cord exiting under the box with the other end going into what may have been the fan shroud. Perhaps the cap is in the fan shroud.

I also noticed what looks like a chunk missing from the end cover of the motor. That might be an issue eventually. Certainly it tells that the motor is no longer totally enclosed.

That is true, I basicly broker the back cover off, because the was no other wat. I think mounting the back, back on Will close these gaps. I Will have to attach the back to the motor in some other way.

 

There is a bit of a note about "CB" visible in at least one of the photos. But I can't read it as the focus is off a bit and possibly the language is different. I do see a cord exiting under the box with the other end going into what may have been the fan shroud. Perhaps the cap is in the fan shroud.

I also noticed what looks like a chunk missing from the end cover of the motor. That might be an issue eventually. Certainly it tells that the motor is no longer totally enclosed.

I thought there was mention of a brake, and I assumed this cable to the shroud was for that. But I don't see any room for a brake with the cooling fan there. So not sure what's going on.

 

View attachment 222557View attachment 222558

I thought there was mention of a brake, and I assumed this cable to the shroud was for that. But I don't see any room for a brake with the cooling fan there. So not sure what's going on.

I appreciate you comments and the knowledge you give me about the motor. Is there any way I could help you by providing more information/photo's?

 

I appreciate you comments and the knowledge you give me about the motor. Is there any way I could help you by providing more information/photo's?

Sure, a picture of the inside of the shroud, wherever that cable is going, would solve a mystery.

 

MOST of the TEFC motors do not use a capacitor, partly because they do run warmer than open motors..

What in the he!! are you talking about? What does heat have to do with whether a motor has a cap or not?
Do you really think that all TEFC motors don't use start or sometimes run caps?

 

What in the he!! are you talking about? What does heat have to do with whether a motor has a cap or not?
Do you really think that all TEFC motors don't use start or sometimes run caps?

My thoughts as well, but I have learned that making such statements is a quick way to learn a whole lot real fast. And I can't spare the brain cells.

 

Looking at the motors listed on the EMOD site, I see that the 1ph versions have a raised terminal box as though there is a square formation fitted between it and the motor body, possibly the capacitor, as that would be fairly large at 40μf.
See the wire labelled Z2 in the box!
No way a 2hp 1ph induction motor without capacitor!
Max.

 

Looking at the motors listed on the EMOD site, I see that the 1ph versions have a raised terminal box as though there is a square formation fitted between it and the motor body, possibly the capacitor, as that would be fairly large at 40μf.
See the wire labelled Z2 in the box!
No way a 2hp 1ph induction motor without capacitor!
Max.

Yes Max,I agree. Tthe capacitor must be built-in. It would not start reliably without one.
To the rest of you, don't confuse the poor young guy!
Regards,
Keith

 

Looking at the motors listed on the EMOD site, I see that the 1ph versions have a raised terminal box as though there is a square formation fitted between it and the motor body, possibly the capacitor, as that would be fairly large at 40μf.
See the wire labelled Z2 in the box!
No way a 2hp 1ph induction motor without capacitor!
Max.

That would explain why the wire tagged Z2 went out the bottom of the junction box.
And as for a brake, they are usually spring set- and disengage when the motor is powered. So a typical brake motor does not trun freely when not powered. But if the brake was damaged, as the end of that fan certainly was, it may be loose from the shaft, in which case the motor may spin freely. A picture of the inside of that shroud will explain it all.