Trying to install a remote switch on my inverter. I recently extended the wired switch on the inverter and noticed it's an AC switch. So, I bought an AC remote switch. I tested the wires before installing the remote switch and found it's a DC circuit.

I'd guess I can't use that switch and I need to get a DC remote switch. But, just though I'd ask if it is possible to use the AC remote switch since there's already an AC switch in there?

 

What current are you switching?
Max.

 

DC. It's a DC to AC inverter but I'm just tapping into the switch circuit. The switch that's on that circuit is an AC switch (see photo) but I'm getting DC voltage when testing the wires.

 

I am confused. Please draw a complete diagram. Are you trying to switch a control signal to inverter....or....switch the power to inverter?

What mode is your meter in when you measure the DC voltage? What kind of meter? AC is DC, half the time.

 

DC. It's a DC to AC inverter but I'm just tapping into the switch circuit. The switch that's on that circuit is an AC switch (see photo) but I'm getting DC voltage when testing the wires.

My question was, What is the current, not the voltage.
Max.

 

I'm confused too. LOL. I don't know why an AC switch is in there and I'm getting DC voltage.

It's the power switch on a 500 watt inverter. I use it for camping and I'd like to be able to turn the inverter off at night remotely. So I just want to tap into the wires that control the switch that normally turns the inverter on/off and install my remote switch.

 

That didn't help my query very much. Wiring diagram-------schematic.

Let me ask you this, before you changed anything........how many wires were wired to the power switch? When the switch was still in inverter. And had you added or modified any thing before this?

 

My question was, What is the current, not the voltage.
Max.

I assume DC but I guess I'm doing it wrong? I hook up the voltmeter and I get the negative 13.1V on DC but nothing when I switch modes to AC.

 

That didn't help my query very much. Wiring diagram-------schematic.

Let me ask you this, before you changed anything........how many wires were wired to the power switch? When the switch was still in inverter. And had you added or modified any thing before this?

I'm diagram challenged lol. I'm sure you can tell that my electrical knowledge is very limited. Sorry.

There were three wires wired to the power switch. I assume ground, hot in, and hot out. The only thing I changed was to extend those wires. The inverter is mounted where you see it but it's behind my fridge and the switch is not convenient to operate there. So I extended and moved the switch so it can be easily reached. It works fine. Nothing wrong there. Now I just want to use a remote/wireless switch instead to turn the inverter on/off.

 

I assume DC but I guess I'm doing it wrong? I hook up the voltmeter and I get the negative 13.1V on DC but nothing when I switch modes to AC.

I was trying to ascertain the Current (Amps/Milliamp) etc you are switching, this is often the decider as to whether it can be used to switch DC or AC.
On the type of switch shown, the 3rd terminal is often the indicator when on.
Max.

 

The switch doesn't care if it is switching AC or DC, the ratings for current handling will be different for the two, but the switch will still operate. Does that switch light up when on?

 

The switch doesn't care if it is switching AC or DC, the ratings for current handling will be different for the two, but the switch will still operate. Does that switch light up when on?

Yes, it lights up when on.

 

Ok. So the dark blue wire (I substituted it for red) just lights up the indicator on the switch?

The light blue wire (also subbed for red) that's giving me 13.1V is my load?

The white wire (that one's supposed to be black) is my ground or neutral?

The remote switch only has load and neutral. No ground.

Going to hook up dark blue back to the dark blue I cut. Not going thru remote.

Then hook up light blue to load in/out.

Then hook up white to neutral in/out.

Right?

 

The switch is rated at 30VDC and has a 12V lamp in it. The AC ratings are just molded in to the case, but there are order codes that give you 12V illumination.

 

Ok. So the dark blue wire (I substituted it for red) just lights up the indicator on the switch?

The light blue wire (also subbed for red) that's giving me 13.1V is my load?

The white wire (that one's supposed to be black) is my ground or neutral?

The remote switch only has load and neutral. No ground.

Going to hook up dark blue back to the dark blue I cut. Not going thru remote.

Then hook up light blue to load in/out.

Then hook up white to neutral in/out.

Right?

It is hard to follow what you are saying, but almost certainly, all that is happening with that switch is opening and closing a connection of the positive side of the DC with the light connected to whatever they want to say is "on".

 

The switch I see is the typical AC switch rated at 250vac. usually with a neon indicator.
Max.

 

The switch I see is the typical AC switch rated at 250vac. usually with a neon indicator.
Max.

Neon is an option, so it 12VDC. They seem to have molded the AC ratings into the case, because... reasons.

 

Here's the data I could find: http://www.canal.com.tw/images/products/MR.htm

 

The only thing I can offer.......is that if your remote switch, meets the original switch specs(which are on the switch)......go for it.

I find it hard to believe the original switch, is switching 40 amps.

A labeled wiring diagram is needed to confirm. What is DC input voltage to inverter?

 

I hooked up the remote switch to the inverter and it doesn't work.

I give the remote switch 120v AC and it works.

Looks like I need a DC remote switch.

Thanks for all the help.