Hi ...is there a multicore cable that can carry a momentary (eg 5-10 seconds max) 5A/12V current?
Need this to power a NO gate lock but 7 of the 9 cores are only low power... for the keypad as pictured...
Or what do people advise?
Thanks
Tinkerer

 

Are you looking to replace the wires in the pic? Any electronics store/website has multi-wire cables.

 

Here. Sorry, I counted 12 wires in the pic. Are you sure you need 5 amps?

 

Would advise you give us the specs of what you need. Why multi-core? Do you NEED multi-core? If so, how many wires? Are all of those wires expected to handle 60 watts (12V x 5A = 60W). Or do you wish to use what you have in hand? If you're talking about using some of those strands of multi-core to carry 12V positive and the rest to carry 12V negative? You're asking us to guess what will work when we have no clue of your application.

Do some of those cores carry data only, and thereby do not need to carry that kind of power? (Power = Watts)
Do you need all of those cores with the exception of at least two being capable of that power?

There's lots of information we need in order to help you solve a problem or a need. IF you just need a few conductors to carry 60W then at that low current and voltage standard 16 gauge lamp cord will do plenty well. It'll handle 10 amps without issue or heating. Of course, that begs another rule - length of run. How long a run of wire do you need? If you're running a hundred feet then there will be line loss. In that case 14 gauge wire is recommended. If it's a permanent fixture then solid wire will likely do better than stranded. However, if there's going to be considerable and regular flexing then stranded is the better choice.

Help us help you. Give us the information we need.

 

well spotted; I only need 7 of the keypad's 24AWG keypad wires, which will run to the power supply unit and also to a door bell /alarm
the remaining two wires can bypass the keypad, running between the 5A/12V gate lock itself and a special power supply unit.
Would it be more practical to wire the lock separately to this multicore cable as I'm having trouble finding a 9 core high current cable?

 

huh !
We use network cables for tht.
Only the lock cables are thicker.

 

thanks, I've answered some of this above and your response is helpful in itself.
ie only the lock itself needs the 5A (if in fact this much is actually needed).
Which is why I'm seeking a way to optimize the cabling...
Length of run would be about 10 m to the keypad, and longer, maybe 20m, to the gate lock itself.
It might help to show the wiring diagram...

Would advise you give us the specs of what you need. Why multi-core? Do you NEED multi-core? If so, how many wires? Are all of those wires expected to handle 60 watts (12V x 5A = 60W). Or do you wish to use what you have in hand? If you're talking about using some of those strands of multi-core to carry 12V positive and the rest to carry 12V negative? You're asking us to guess what will work when we have no clue of your application.

Do some of those cores carry data only, and thereby do not need to carry that kind of power? (Power = Watts)
Do you need all of those cores with the exception of at least two being capable of that power?

There's lots of information we need in order to help you solve a problem or a need. IF you just need a few conductors to carry 60W then at that low current and voltage standard 16 gauge lamp cord will do plenty well. It'll handle 10 amps without issue or heating. Of course, that begs another rule - length of run. How long a run of wire do you need? If you're running a hundred feet then there will be line loss. In that case 14 gauge wire is recommended. If it's a permanent fixture then solid wire will likely do better than stranded. However, if there's going to be considerable and regular flexing then stranded is the better choice.

Help us help you. Give us the information we need.

 

I did think of using an ethernet cable, but they're not usually weatherproof..?

huh !
We use network cables for tht.
Only the lock cables are thicker.

 

Oh you want weatherproof.
I weather proof the joints.
the cable will be with in pipes and joints will be sealed.
Never had any issue so far.
Still I dunno your environment.

 

thanks, I've answered some of this above and your response is helpful in itself.
ie only the lock itself needs the 5A (if in fact this much is actually needed).
Which is why I'm seeking a way to optimize the cabling...
Length of run would be about 10 m to the keypad, and longer, maybe 20m, to the gate lock itself.
It might help to show the wiring diagram...
View attachment 338271

This setup I am running in my workshop main gate.
Just a cat6 cables is used.
PSU is inside, rest is outside in heavy rain. No issue for me, been years.
The keypad itself is weatherproof. The joints are waterproof and inside the door pipes. The deadbolt cutout is sealed with engine silicon sealant

 

I use two pairs fro the bolt power supply.
It is around 25 feet from PSU

 

You can get 7-core and 13-core trailer cable.
https://gttowing.co.uk/products/13-core-black-towbar-trailer-caravan-cable/
and data+power cables are available
https://kelseyacoustics.co.uk/product/kelsey-combi-2-data-and-power-cable/

 

It seems you may have your answer. But I'm wondering where the diagram comes from. It appears that there are NC and NO ports but no C (common) on what you show as the power supply connection. I'm wondering about the functioning of the connections. It's not clear to me. I may be missing something, not unusual for me. But you also show connections between C on the key pad and GND on the supply. But somehow that's feeding ground to the plus terminal on the lock. If I had two screens I could evaluate these connections better, so again, I may be missing something.
{{Editing. See next post.}}

 

Not on my home computer, so I can't redraw your diagram in a way I can make better sense to me. Also, this comment will be edited as I get a better idea and correct statements I've already made.
I said

But somehow that's feeding ground to the plus terminal on the lock.

I was wrong. It IS feeding the negative terminal on the lock.
The positive terminal of the lock is going to the NC port but I can't find how the lock is getting power.

I don't know what the "PUSH" port is for. It's wired to a lower port of the switch pad. The switches upper port connects to GND on the PS (Power Supply), the KEYPAD COM port and GND port, is connected to the DOORBELL GND and the LOCK negative. But I still don't see how the positive terminal gets power unless the PUSH terminal is the COMMON terminal inside the PS.

So where did this drawing come from?

I think I'm done with the editing for the moment.

 

thanks again for your trouble.
its of Chinese origin...
that drawing is a little crude...here is a better diagram with the special power supply itself
ie the Blue wire from the keypad would route to the 'Push' termination, although I'm not sure what the additional 'control-' and 'control+' terminations on the power supply unit are used for..?