AlbertHall
- Joined Jun 4, 2014
- 12,625
Agreed, but that doesn't seem to be happening.My bad. But it should be around ground once the timing cap gets to 10V...
OK, can you try a 10uF timing capacitor? Perhaps pinching the one from pin 5?connection between pin 2 and 6 good.
Granted the labeling in the picture wasn't that great, but I read 100uF...The leakage of the 1000uF may be too great.
Problem solved. Rebuilt the circuit using a new capacitor and a new 555 chip from a different package. LED flashed, however slowly, about 6 seconds. Flashing rate increased be changing capacitor. Apparently capacitor or chip were shorted. Thanks for your help.Check the connection between pins 2 and 6.
Couldn't have been a shorted capacitor because it was charging to 10V. Also couldn't have been a shorted timer; whatever that means in your context.Apparently capacitor or chip were shorted.
You build a test circuit; just like the manufacturer would do.Is there to test a 555 to determine if working correctly.
The circuit flashed. I changed value of R3. The flashing rate changed. Went to a lower value of and burned out LED. Changed LED and made R3 bigger. LED lights but does not flash. What changed? The only thing I see is something changed in 555. Why dose't it flash?You build a test circuit; just like the manufacturer would do.
If you make an astable, the only other function to test is reset. If you want to do parametric testing; that would be more involved.
The circuit flashed. I changed value of R3. The flashing rate changed. Went to a lower value of and burned out LED.
Are you certain the replacement LED is functional and connected correctly?Changed LED and made R3 bigger.
Which R changes the rate?![]()
Changing R3 would not change the flashing rate.
What did you change R3 to?
To see if the timer is working, you can measure the capacitor voltage to see if it's changing and alternately charges to 2/3VCC and discharges to 1/3VCC. You can also monitor the output to see if it's changing; it should alternate from near ground to near VCC.
The output can source 200mA (assuming you're using a bipolar timer), and it should have been able to destroy an LED without being damaged.
Are you certain the replacement LED is functional and connected correctly?
R1 or R2. R1 would affect charge, R2 would affect both charging and discharging.Which R changes the rate?
What is the supply voltage?I reduced R3 to 100 ohms. Still flashed. rate a little quicker. R3 10 ohm burned LED.
What is the voltage on pin 7?Cap measured at 94uf. Input V and V across cap same. Cap not charging but measures OK.
Circuit worked for a day until changed R3. ??? Does that mean I blew part of the 555?Absolute maximum supply voltage for the LM555 is 18V.
Checked with another meter. 16V. output of source should be 16VPossibly but it's impossible to tell from here. It has certainly been over-stressed.