OK, here's all I can give you. No need for logic, relays, regulators etc. One color bulb to signal the door is opening and a different color to signal it's closing. It don't get any simpler than that. [edit] drawing has been corrected.
[edit] The drawing has been removed.

 

Here's MY Genie GDO motor (extra one from a previously failed unit)

 

I have a DC variable voltage supply, and testing a single 110 lamp with a 1N4004 diode it's taking over 60VAC to get the bulb to glow at a decent brightness. Keep in mind, the bulb is being powered by a DC source and passing through the diode. You may have to find a different bulb. For now, my last drawing does work, but not satisfactorily. The one I used is NOT a Christmas Light. IF you go with LED's keep in mind that the bulb that is supposed to be OFF will have a reverse breakdown voltage that can easily be exceeded. You don't want to do that without the extra 1N4004 diodes, which can protect from reverse voltages up to 400V.

The bulb I used for my test was a 120V 60W bulb. So a lower wattage bulb might work better. I'll repeat my test as soon as I can find some 3W light bulbs.

[edit] OK, that was even worse. So my last proposal was a wasted effort; as proven out by actual testing. Sorry.

 

But the OP has already stated that he needs the outputs for GPIO pins.

 

I have not seen a DC powered garage door opener. The circuit in post #19 is good, but it needs a zener diode shunting each opto to avoid over voltage. Then you can size the resistor to have the opto turn on at 12 volts but not be damaged with 36 volts. And no regulator needed, since it is using a zener diode clamp to limit the voltage. That is how to protect parts that need protection against excess voltage.

 

But the OP has already stated that he needs the outputs for GPIO pins.

That's what happens when I read too fast and pay slow attention.

I have not seen a DC powered garage door opener.

The GDO is AC powered but the motor is DC driven. At least in my case it is. Look at the picture in post # 22.

 

Here's my version based on my understanding.View attachment 226104

With greater understanding of the need, yes, this is the way to go. You WILL need a 5V supply; one that is pretty stable and reliable.

 

That's what happens when I read too fast and pay slow attention.


The GDO is AC powered but the motor is DC driven. At least in my case it is. Look at the picture in post # 22.

OK, I see it. But still, I have not come across one using a DC motor. Is it a brush-type motor, then? All of them that I have dealt with use a split-capacitor setup so that they can very simply use a single contact relay to select directions. For the DC motor they would need ah "H- bridge" driver, which might possibly be cheaper than two cheap relays now.

 

You WILL need a 5V supply; one that is pretty stable and reliable.

Since the GPIO is on a computer you could tap off an unused USB jack.
Actually the 5 volt supply can be removed. This still provides three distinct states.

 

Where is the GPIO connector on the computer. Many of them have both +5 and common pins as well. And I am thinking that it is not a PC, since they do not have GPIO ports or even parallel printer ports any more. So probably the +5 is not an issue. Locating the correct zener diodes and getting the correct resistor values may be a challenge.

 

MisterBill2 said:
"Locating the correct zener diodes"
Refresh my memory. Why do you need zeners?

 

The zener diodes are to clamp the voltage to the opto isolators or relay coils. The reason is that with a series resistor value low enough to assure operation at 12 volts suply there will be excessive current with the 36 volt power supply. The zeners will bypass that voltageand limit the current through the opto or relay. Often this is called a clamping function.

 

The zener diodes are to clamp the voltage to the opto isolators or relay coils.

I don't see an issue with the opto's. The current varies from 4 to 12 ma using a 2.7K series resistor, well below the 50ma they are rated at. Resistors will dissipate between 50 to 430mw. One watt resistors should suffice.

 

@MisterBill2 my GDO motor has only two wires, red and black. I can't see the brushes so I can't say if it's a brushed motor but I have a strong suspicion it is. I believe the control board also had an H Bridge setup using MOSFETs. The GDO can be programmed to open and close the door at five different speeds; so the HB is probably PWM controlled as well.

 

Here's my version based on my understanding.View attachment 226135

Hi Sghioto,

Thanks for taking the time to draw the diagram - I really appreciate it and it makes it really clear.

This is my current purchase list based on this:
1) 4N35S Optocoopular: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/smd-optocooupler-4n35s-s01c6-pack-10/p/ZD1934
2) 2K, 1W Resistor: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/2-7k-ohm-1-watt-carbon-film-resistors-pack-of-2/p/RR2784
3) 1N4002 Diode: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/1n4007-1a-1000v-diode-pk-4/p/ZR1007

Questions:
• Is this the right 4N35 you were referring to. The picture only shows 5 pins ?
• Any issues with the GPIO 1 & 2 input is 12V ?

Notes:
• The GPIO module is: https://numato.com/product/32-channel-usb-gpio-module-with-analog-inputs/ connected to the computer via USB
• I'm using a Cat6 cable between the GPIO module and the garage door. Distance is ~10m.
• Voltage on the line is 12V, then using resistors to drop the voltage down to the 3.3V the GPIO module expects. I initially was using 3.3V but with the longer runs it was unreliable.


Thanks
Kent.

 

That 4N35S will work it's the surface mount version. If Jaycar is your only supplier the less expensive 4N25 will also work.
12 volts is OK, add proper divider to reduce to 3.3v

 

That 4N35S will work it's the surface mount version. If Jaycar is your only supplier the less expensive 4N25 will also work.
12 volts is OK, add proper divider to reduce to 3.3v

Do you mean this one ? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4n25-4n28-phototransistor-optocoupler/p/ZD1928

I'm already handling reducing the 12v down to 3.3v at the GPIO end. I have this part working already with other items - including the two switches for the open / close status. Mainly wanting to make sure the optocoupler can handle the 12v that will be passing through it.

Thanks again
Kent.

 

Do you mean this one ? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4n25-4n28-phototransistor-optocoupler/p/ZD1928

I'm already handling reducing the 12v down to 3.3v at the GPIO end. I have this part working already with other items - including the two switches for the open / close status. Mainly wanting to make sure the optocoupler can handle the 12v that will be passing through it.

Thanks again
Kent.

You can use a five volt zener diode to limit the voltage across the opto. That has been my point all along.

 

Do you mean this one ? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4n25-4n28-phototransistor-optocoupler/p/ZD1928

I'm already handling reducing the 12v down to 3.3v at the GPIO end. I have this part working already with other items - including the two switches for the open / close status. Mainly wanting to make sure the optocoupler can handle the 12v that will be passing through it.

Thanks again
Kent.

Yes that is the one I was referring to.
Yes the opto can handle the 12 volts.

 

Modified schematic in post #19 for 12 volt operation.