Hi,

I have a 3-pin SPST rocker switch that isn't illuminating.

It is connected to an old computer 320W power supply, used to power it on and off (functionally a kill switch).
Green power wire is connected to top, black ground wire is connected in middle.
The brass connector is not yet in use.

When plugged in, the power supply indeed powers on/off with the rocker (YAY!) but it doesn't illuminate (BOO!).

I'm less than a novice with wiring components so I wanted to solve this before moving on with the project (adding LED strips and eventually more switches to control them).

Any ideas? Or do I just have a bad batch of switches? (I ordered 10, and they all behave the same way).

Picture of the switch I am using:

This shop link shows more detailed information:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...R-SWITCH-RED-SPST-20A-125VAC/32695675276.html

If I can get this figured out, I'll probably have more questions as I move through the project

Also, thanks for hosting this amazing resource - I've been reading through the ebooks and already learning a ton (especially the chapters on safety).

 

Look here:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/SPST-rocker-switch-wiring.php


The first lug is connected to power, the middle lug is connected to the load and the 3rd (presently unconnected) lug needs to be connected the return side of the power source.
(The Neutral (White) wire on a 120vac power source). NEVER connect any power to the Green wire ground) I assume that you are going to properly fuse the 'hot' 120 volt side, before feeding it to the power supply. I would also use a GFI as well.

 

My guess is the informative portion of your link is in maybe Polish?

Your switch appears to be an illuminated switch and my guess is that illumination is provided possibly by a neon lamp with inline resistor and designed for 120 VAC use. So whil;d the switch will work fine as a simple On/Off switch it will not illuminate.

As to your PSU. The green wire on the either 20 or 24 pin ATX form factor main connector is the PS_ON line. This line is normally held at a logic high (5 volts) using the 5 Volt SB (StandBy) power from the PSU through a pull up resistor. This power is available anytime the PSU is powered. Placing the PS_ON line at a logic low starts the PSU. Should this be the case then all you need to do is use a SPST type switch, even a rocker switch like you have to switch the Green Wire (Pin 14) on a 20 pin connector and (Pin 16) on the 24 pin version to ground (any black wire on the connector. Unfortunately if the switch illumination is designed for 120 VAC you will not see any illumination.

Ron

 

Look here:
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/SPST-rocker-switch-wiring.php


The first lug is connected to power, the middle lug is connected to the load and the 3rd (presently unconnected) lug needs to be connected the return side of the power source.
(The Neutral (White) wire on a 120vac power source). NEVER connect any power to the Green wire ground) I assume that you are going to properly fuse the 'hot' 120 volt side, before feeding it to the power supply. I would also use a GFI as well.

Thanks for the reply and article link!

I do have some questions, though. Some of what you mentioned is confusing to me as I have never worked on circuits before.

Does the above article take into account my application (however my PSU circuit is designed)?
The reason I'm asking is mainly that I learned the wiring scenario I used from a YouTube video, and it works (except for the unlit bulb on the rocker).

For reference:

"How to Add a Toggle Switch to a Power Supply"

Also, I don't understand what you mean about a return to the PSU. Do you know which wire color that would be? This particular switch will not be powering anything by itself - it only operates whether the PSU is in an on or off state. If I have a return, wouldn't it be PSU -> switch ->PSU? Why would I need a fuse between the switch and the PSU? I'd think that is more for when I actually apply components to the 12v rail (when I run lights from it, much later on).

 

My guess is the informative portion of your link is in maybe Polish?

Your switch appears to be an illuminated switch and my guess is that illumination is provided possibly by a neon lamp with inline resistor and designed for 120 VAC use. So whil;d the switch will work fine as a simple On/Off switch it will not illuminate.

As to your PSU. The green wire on the either 20 or 24 pin ATX form factor main connector is the PS_ON line. This line is normally held at a logic high (5 volts) using the 5 Volt SB (StandBy) power from the PSU through a pull up resistor. This power is available anytime the PSU is powered. Placing the PS_ON line at a logic low starts the PSU. Should this be the case then all you need to do is use a SPST type switch, even a rocker switch like you have to switch the Green Wire (Pin 14) on a 20 pin connector and (Pin 16) on the 24 pin version to ground (any black wire on the connector. Unfortunately if the switch illumination is designed for 120 VAC you will not see any illumination.

Ron

This makes sense to me - thank you so much! I am definitely using the green and black from the 24-pin.

So basically, I'm using a switch with features that won't work in my application. I guess I won't stress over this aspect for now. It would have been cool to get the illumination to work (lit while PSU is on, unlit when off) but I don't quite yet understand how to get that to work.

 

So basically, I'm using a switch with features that won't work in my application.

That would be my thinking. You are switching a Logic 5 Volts on a pull up to ground to start the PSU. So as a switch the switch will work, however the illumination feature of the switch won't. There are ways to go about what you want, just not with the switch you have. On the bright side you can turn your PSU On and Off.

Ron

 

Cool. I'll probably swap it out to a different style of switch (most likely a simple 2-pin). I have a bunch of tiny ones that were like 10 for $1 with free shipping haha (15mm x 10mm x 10mm, lol). They're about half the size of the illuminated switch I was trying to use.

Sharing some photos if anyone was curious about what this monstrosity looks like:
http://imgur.com/a/Pe5XS

 

Your unused "Unused 6-pin bundle (5v?)". Actually looks to be a 12 V ATX form factor motherboard connector, generally connected to a motherboard beside the CPU. If things are standard ATX color coded the Yellow lines are 12 V, the Red are 5 Volt and the Orange are 3.3 Volt. Seldom seen anymore are the negative voltages from the PSUs.

Ron

 

Oh - I completely misunderstood how those bundles are set up.
I'll have to do more research on them when I get the LED strips in the mail.
I won't be splicing anything until I find some instruction anyhow.
This video seems to lay it out nicely:

It says what you said about the wiring pairs but in a visual context.
12v = black + yellow pair
5v = black + orange pair
3v = black + red pair

Pretty useful info!!

I've updated the imgur link with another pic, showing the tiny switch attached lol.
Reminds me of those Ertyl toy truck commercials from the late 80's:
"Just like the real thing - only smaller"

 

5v = black + orange pair
3v = black + red pair

No, the orange is 3.3 volts and the red is 5.0 volts. Just like the video.

Also, if the LED string you ordered was a RGB (Red Green Blue) string there will be 4 tabs (wires) and if you ordered a single color there will be 2 tabs (wires). Most LED strings identify the tabs and most include the identification on the tabs such as 12V, R, G, B or 12V and Common. Most are designed for 12 Volt DC operation and include series current limiting resistors built in.

If you ordered a tri-color (RGB) string let me know and I will tell you how to make the different colors such as Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Purple, Aqua and White.

All of the PSU black wires are a single common meaning all the black are tied together inside the PSU.

Ron

 

No, the orange is 3.3 volts and the red is 5.0 volts. Just like the video.

Holy transcription error, Batman!

I copied the CORRECT pairings onto a label, and stuck it to the PSU so I don't mess that up again. Good thing I didn't try to wire anything up to it yet

The LED sets were all pretty cheap, ordered through Geek/Wish/Alibaba. I don't expect them to arrive until probably September :/ A day in the life of trying to save a buck... But they are all testing gear. When I figure it out properly I will order all 8 strips from a better source to (hopefully) guarantee quality.

 

When you start getting into it feel free to post back with any questions you may have.

Ron

 

Test LEDs came in today!

One is a soft white, 12V with a red and black pair.
I was able to wire this reel to my power supply (black to black, red to yellow).
Worked perfectly!

The other is a 12V RGB strip with four wires.
This one came with a remote, a controller unit, and AC adapter.
I haven't wired that into the PSU yet.
I tested it with the included equipment and it lit up wonderfully.
Until I hit the OFF button on the remote.
Blasted thing won't power back on!!

I found numerous videos on YouTube mentioning similar issues.
One mentioned the ON button's contact was corroded and he fixed it by applying aluminum tape to it.
I don't have any handy so I can't test.
But, I can confirm the IR transmits from every other button.
When viewed through my phone camera, you can see the pulse emitted on all of the others.
GRRR!!

Doesn't matter I guess... In the end, I wasn't planning to wire these for IR control.
But it would have been a cool option.

 

Well now you have plenty of pices and parts to play around with. Hopefully you will get everything working.

Ron