Hello fellow Nerds!

I am in the process of making a homemade pottery wheel based off of a 160V DC 3.5A (3/4HP) motor that I salvaged from work.

Iv'e looked around for an appropriate stock controller, but everything I've found is far too expensive/old.

I am currently pursuing my enginerding degree, but am no way knowledgeable enough in the Electrical field to safely/efficiently choose proper cap, resistor, and IC's for this high of voltage circuit.

So far I've put together something that I'm pretty sure will work, but am looking for some help on the finishing touches. Basically I need 120V AC in, and 0V to ~160V DC out in a PWM signal based on a potentiometer input. I want to use an Atmega328p micro controller because I'm pretty comfortable with arduino and like the idea of being able to add more features later. (Estimated clay weight on an LCD based on load, H-Bridge, auto cleaning pumps, etc.)

(See attached schematic)

I'm obviously looking for constructive criticism and obvious things that Iv'e messed up, which I'm sure there's no shortage.

I also am really looking for specific inductor and capacitor types to most effectively smooth the voltages I'm using.

Is there enough isolation between the micro controller and high voltage circuits? (Using optocoupler to drive 12V signal for mosfet; didn't find a mosfet on mouser that would fully activate @ 5V)

Do I have to worry about the 160V leaking into the 12V circuit?

I know there will be ton's of noise/spikes from the motor; how do i properly mitigate this?

Do my 12V and 160V GND's need to be separated?

Thank you all for your help/time in advanced! Any help will be really appreciated. I already have a frame welded up, can make a project post once I get these details smoothed out

 

Why do you need an H bridge for a pottery wheel?
Do you really need control from a μP, and not just a pot?
You don't necessarily need to isolate the different circuits, although it is sometimes better from the safety aspect.
I assume you have checked out the ex-T.M. controllers, the later ones are PWM, just need reversing if you need it, also KB control.
Here is a bridge type circuitry.
http://tahmidmc.blogspot.com/2013/01/using-high-low-side-driver-ir2110-with.html
There are plenty of logic Mosfets the IR usually have L in the part No IRL530 for e.g.
Max.

 

Why do you need an H bridge for a pottery wheel?
Do you really need control from a μP, and not just a pot?
You don't necessarily need to isolate the different circuits, although it is sometimes better from the safety aspect.
I assume you have checked out the ex-T.M. controllers, the later ones are PWM, just need reversing if you need it, also KB control.
Here is a bridge type circuitry.
http://tahmidmc.blogspot.com/2013/01/using-high-low-side-driver-ir2110-with.html
There are plenty of logic Mosfets the IR usually have L in the part No IRL530 for e.g.
Max.

Hi Max!
Thanks for that, I'll clear some things up.

The H bridge would just be for reversing later on if I wanted it. Since it's pretty rare that you do need to go in reverse, I think the best option in the end would be a switching relay...

As for the pot, I planned on getting an old sewing machine pedal. They're 3 wire and from what I understand work similarly to a conventional pot.

Haven't heard about the ex-T.M controllers! But ill be checking them out right now...