Hello

I have a speaker Ibiza XTM-12 AMP and my grandson has put the audio jack from the output cables in the white LINE in plug. (while plugged in mix out)

Since then the speaker doesn't work properly and by this I mean the volume, bass, treble can't be adjusted with the potentiometer. The speaker does work when I plug the audio jack in my phone and the volume can be adjusted only from my phone. The Mic1 and mic2 does work, I can adjust the mic volume and echo. When I play some music the resistors here are getting here is a picture click

I have made a few pictures to show you the electronic boards maybe can someone say what is probably wrong or give me some advise.
You can see all the pictures here


Many thanks
Mod edit: Its preferable to use File Upload to host images here. That way, the thread is preserved for future users. I have moved them for you.
Welcome aboard!

 

Welcome to ACC.

Resistors getting hot could mean a shorted IC.
I see 3 of them 16 pin one and 2, 8 pin ones. May be one is kaput. Or may be a Zener diode also
Check to see if any IC is also getting hot. Simply place your finger over it while playing. It should not feel even warm

 

I checked the IC's and none of them are hot or warm.
Zener diode, should they get hot if they have gone bad?

 

@notnulled
I could not find a schematic for this amp. Is there any distortion or loss of power through the inputs that still work? The amp puts out a couple hundred watts, where is the power module? What is the part number on the 8 pin IC nearest the volume control that doe not work?

 

there is a power module. Look at all the pictures.
@notnulled
Can you remove the IC's and check if the R's are getting hot.
Do you have a DMM ?

 

Do you moean to remove the ic's and then play music ?
it won't damage the board if i remove them ?
Yes I have a DMM

 

It won't
Need to see if the IC is the problem for heating up the resistors.

 

Thank you for helping me

I removed the ic's but the resistors are still getting hot.

 

Can you check the diodes for dead shorts the ones I circled and I do not see any other diodes from the picture

If there are no dead shorts or if you dunno how to do it, then just power the board without the IC's and measure the DC voltage across each diode and post. Polarity does not matter if you have a DMM.

 

Ok I checked first for shorts and everything looks ok.I have measured also the voltages of the diodes, there are 3 of them:
The one on the left has 15.7 volt;
Another one near the one on the left, where the 2 capacitors are, that one has 15.6 volt;
The one on the right side has 5 volt;
There is no other Zener diode on that board. I also realized that the resistors get hot even if I'm not playing music just when the speaker in on...

Thank you

 

The it is normal I believe.

I need closer look at the board from both sides to figure out an repair approach.

Another measurement is needed.You need to solder the IC's back for this experiment

Ground the negative probe of DMM to the wire in the RED circle and measure the voltage on each lead of each resistor.
You should get a high and low reading from each resistor.
I need a total of 6 readings.
And also post the part no of the 3 IC's

 

Ok before doing what you said I made a clear picture with the first board back and front and the second board where the power goes in.
Here is the first board front side click (you can press the plus icon to zoom in).
Here is the backside first board click
Here is the second board click , on this one I didn't remove the IC, should I remove first the IC on the second board before soldering the IC's back?

I see model or part number where the IC's are on the board and it's TL082 for the two 8 pin IC's. is that the part number ?
On the two 8 pins i can read this:
CHN
TL082CN
KLX010

The 16 pin one:
CD2399GP
JYA27 II (2 Roman i guess?)

And the the 8 pin one from the second board:
CHN
TL082CN
K3F004

Thank you for your time

 

Solder all the IC's and measure the voltages as in post #11

 

Umm the file sizes are just too large for me.
You need resize them. I am sorry my bandwidth is limited.
You can attach them to AAC

 

The two 8 pin chips are Tl082 op amps,

The pt2399 comes back as a delay line echo amp( as per markings on pcb next to chip)

http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/smalltimeschem.jpg

Datasheet
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...ghNMAo&usg=AFQjCNEckXK7sba0KCY12PeHSOgxJaGHkw

 

I have resized them.
I am going to solder them and I will come with an edit

 

Ok starting from Left
Just after powering it on I get 23 volts and then goes all the way down to 0 so the final result 0.0 the left side (when potentiometers are on your left) right side remains at 0.1 Volt
The same thing for all of them, the right side is always 0.1 volt.
If I leave it on and measure again then I get just 0 left side and 0.1 right side from the resistors.

@ Dodgydave
was that post for me ?
I don't know a lot about electronics ... sorry... but I love electronics and want to learn more about.

Thank you

 

Yes the circuit was for your benefit, to follow and repair.

 

Ok starting from Left
Just after powering it on I get 23 volts and then goes all the way down to 0 so the final result 0.0 the left side (when potentiometers are on your left) right side remains at 0.1 Volt
The same thing for all of them, the right side is always 0.1 volt.
If I leave it on and measure again then I get just 0 left side and 0.1 right side from the resistors.

You misunderstood me. I needed to know the voltage of the resistors that get HOT. Not the pots. I showed the POT to tell you where to ground the meter. The POT body should be used for the DMM negative probe.

 

Yes I understood, I'm talking about resistors those are result from the resistors
first resistor starting from the left, then second then third