Hello,
I am trying to repair a wurlitzer 2000 jukebox, and am looking for some advice.
Normally, song selections are made via the keyboard with letters and numbers,
and a number lof solenoid latches and switches direct the signal towards the junction box, coin grinder and eventually a latch should pop out in the selector drum, the big "clock'. Once a latch pops out, the wobble ring is displaced, a switch closes and the hands of the clock move towards the popped out latch and a song starts playing.
That's how it normally goes.
However, since a couple of days the latches stopped popping out.
After thorough inspection of all the latches, fuses and solenoids, it would appear to be a twin set of resistors that are the culprits.
One is a 175 ohms ww (wire wound) 5 watt, which only leads to lighting up a ligt bulb (the select light bulb)
The other is a 150 ohms ww (wire wound) 5 watts, which is to limit the current to the latch solenoid after it pulls in.
A veteran repair man pointed out this morning this is likely the case, since we also noticed a puff of smoke coming off of it last week.
He measured it through, however not "out of circuit". In any case, The 150 ohm read 50ohm, the 175 only 0.3 ohm.
I'd like to ask if anybody knows which replacements I should buy, since it seems the 175 ohms resistor is non existent anymore...




I am trying to repair a wurlitzer 2000 jukebox, and am looking for some advice.
Normally, song selections are made via the keyboard with letters and numbers,
and a number lof solenoid latches and switches direct the signal towards the junction box, coin grinder and eventually a latch should pop out in the selector drum, the big "clock'. Once a latch pops out, the wobble ring is displaced, a switch closes and the hands of the clock move towards the popped out latch and a song starts playing.
That's how it normally goes.
However, since a couple of days the latches stopped popping out.
After thorough inspection of all the latches, fuses and solenoids, it would appear to be a twin set of resistors that are the culprits.
One is a 175 ohms ww (wire wound) 5 watt, which only leads to lighting up a ligt bulb (the select light bulb)
The other is a 150 ohms ww (wire wound) 5 watts, which is to limit the current to the latch solenoid after it pulls in.
A veteran repair man pointed out this morning this is likely the case, since we also noticed a puff of smoke coming off of it last week.
He measured it through, however not "out of circuit". In any case, The 150 ohm read 50ohm, the 175 only 0.3 ohm.
I'd like to ask if anybody knows which replacements I should buy, since it seems the 175 ohms resistor is non existent anymore...



