That appears to be a very strange non-standard motor connection.
Max.

Could it have something to do with what was called the "stop-matic" switch? This was shown on the one PDF page. Not sure but think that would make the machine stop with the needle in the 'up' position, some walking foot sewing machines do this.

I don't understand people wanting help and having a PDF of the manual, not giving the whole PDF. Just what they consider "helpful". They don't know what the problem is, but don't want to give all of the information they have available. Not just this guy but many people coming here to get help.

 

You want to cross the connections to the rotor brushes, but not the lines to the stator. Hook the cut lines from the stator to the two end poles of the switch and put the rotor/brush wires the center poles of the switch. attach two jumpers to the other end of the switch and 'cross' them and attach to the first end."

Basically what I said in the first post regarding swapping the commutator leads!
Reverse the rotor with respect to the stator.
Max.

 

Could it have something to do with what was called the "stop-matic" switch? This was shown on the one PDF page. Not sure but think that would make the machine stop with the needle in the 'up' position, some walking foot sewing machines do this.

I don't understand people wanting help and having a PDF of the manual, not giving the whole PDF. Just what they consider "helpful". They don't know what the problem is, but don't want to give all of the information they have available. Not just this guy but many people coming here to get help.

I apologize. Have no problem providing the complete PDF. I appreciate the assistance here. I know little about this and am a senior with a hobby From what I can tell is that the Stopmatic feature is a lever actuated when you take your foot off the foot control. A lever drops into a cog on the flywheel that coincides with the needle up position. The lever activates a microswitch (connections 7,8,9 in previous photos) that stops the motor.

 

Basically what I said in the first post regarding swapping the commutator leads!
Reverse the rotor with respect to the stator.
Max.

Okay, but I need a digram that would guide me as to what wires at what specific location need to be cut and then specifically where to reconnect them. Would rather wire it permanently and avoid using a switch. In my head I get the terms mixed up; stator, field?, rotor, commutator? etc. Duh

 

I apologize. Have no problem providing the complete PDF. I appreciate the assistance here. I know little about this and am a senior with a hobby From what I can tell is that the Stopmatic feature is a lever actuated when you take your foot off the foot control. A lever drops into a cog on the flywheel that coincides with the needle up position. The lever activates a microswitch (connections 7,8,9 in previous photos) that stops the motor.

Forgot to add that my objective is to abandon the stopmatic feature and electronics board and simply run the motor and lamp off a switch and foot speed control.

 

Have no problem providing the complete PDF. .

The problem is they do not supply a complete or extensive schematic of the electrical side, probably for proprietary reasons.
Basically it requires some expertise in reverse engineering the whole electrical system used.
Max.

 

Looking at the waveform for the speed controller in the manual it looks like its is feeding the motor with half wave rectified DC. It could be the motor is being used as a shunt wound motor. It would have been helpfull if the TS had measured the resistances between each of the three wires and also between each ofthe three wires and each brush holder.

Les.

 

Looking at the waveform for the speed controller in the manual it looks like its is feeding the motor with half wave rectified DC. It could be the motor is being used as a shunt wound motor. It would have been helpfull if the TS had measured the resistances between each of the three wires and also between each ofthe three wires and each brush holder.

Les.

I will get you some resistance readings.

 

Looking at the waveform for the speed controller in the manual it looks like its is feeding the motor with half wave rectified DC. It could be the motor is being used as a shunt wound motor. It would have been helpfull if the TS had measured the resistances between each of the three wires and also between each ofthe three wires and each brush holder.

Les.

Okay I have some readings, using my multimeter on the 2k scale:
With brushes removed from motor:
Blue Wire end to brush holder = .001
No continuity with other wires

Grey Wire (no brushes in) Continuity with Black wire, resis= .011
Grey wire to brush holder = .001
Black (no brushes) to brush holder = .011

WITH BRUSHES IN MOTOR:
Blue has continuity with Grey, resis = .018
Blue has continuity with Black, =.027
Blue wire measured from wire end to brush holder from field that Grey wire enters. Resis = .017
Blue wire measured from wire end to opposite brush holder = .001
Grey wire measured from wire end to brush holder from field that Grey wire enters. Resis = .001
Grey wire measured from wire end to opposite brush holder = .018
Black wire measured from wire end to brush holder from field that Grey wire enters. Resis = .011
Blackwire measured from wire end to opposite brush holder = .028

 

Those readings seem to rule out the possibility that it is a shunt wound motor. It also rules out the idea that it has a tapped field winding. It looks like the resistance of your test leads is about 1 ohm. The field winding has a resistance of about 10 ohms and the armature has a resistance of about 17 ohms. The grey wire comes from the junction of one end of the field winding and one brush holder. For a normal series wound motor you would not need access to that point. My suspicion now is the the grey wire could be used to help stop the motor quickly by applying current to the field and shorting the armature. I think to understand it fully the schematic of the board will have to be traced out.

Les.

 

I have attached photos of each side of the circuit board, not sure what you can tell from a photo vs hands-on. For the heck of it, I connected DC 12V to the motor blu/blk and it ran slow and weak but still clockwise. Reversed pos & neg at motor, still clockwise. Connected to blu/gry and wouldn't turn at all.

 

Reversed pos & neg at motor, still clockwise.

Does this machine have a reverse? Like to start and stop a seam on thee edge of a garment? If so is it possible you flipped that switch? Never seen a machine that couldn't sew in reverse, to lock in a seam.

 

Does this machine have a reverse? Like to start and stop a seam on thee edge of a garment? If so is it possible you flipped that switch? Never seen a machine that couldn't sew in reverse, to lock in a seam.

Reverse in sewing machines especially the vintage ones, is accomplished by the mechanics of the machine, not the motor. Flywheel and motor always run towards you or ccw when you are sitting at it.

 

Reverse in sewing machines especially the vintage ones, is accomplished by the mechanics of the machine, not the motor. Flywheel and motor always run towards you or ccw when you are sitting at it.

As much sewing as I have done over the years(mom and grandma taught me when very young) I never realized it was mechanical not electrical.

 

As much sewing as I have done over the years(mom and grandma taught me when very young) I never realized it was mechanical not electrical.

I taught myself to sew then caught the machine tinkering bug As for this motor, I learned a bit more about it yesterday that could be clues. Most older machines control speed using a carbon pile or rheostat. This "electronic" unit has a small potentiometer in the foot control. The wires connect to the board near two small pots (for lack of better term) These pots are labeled S & N and are located next to contacts 7,8 & 9. Wondering if they mean North & South? Wish I would have taken more electronics growing up! Will have to look for someone locally or a trade school student that has the expertise to figure out the board and motor. I inquired at one shop and they wanted $85 just to look at it!