The motor I listed was designed to be used in Nerf Guns, where they expect a LiPo battery as a power supply, which can easily supply the 14 amps at stall. I believe the data is probably accurate.

Just because the battery can deliver 14 amps doesn't mean the motor will draw that much current. By your thinking, that motor, when hooked to a car battery with a Cold Cranking Amp rating of 450 amps - doesn't mean the motor is going to draw that much current.

Overly simplified explanation of a motor is this: If a motor's resistance (at stall or at full speed - and there's much more to motors than my simplified explanation) means that at (and lets just assume some numbers for sake of argument) 12 ohms winding resistance (at a dead stall) at 12 volts means the motor will draw 1 amp. (12V ÷ 12Ω = 1A). I'm sure those numbers do not relate to your motor but Ohms Law dictates that at a given resistance and a given voltage a given amperage (current) will flow. As long as the source of power can deliver that much current the motor can be expected to spin at full rated RPM.

[edit] IF you change the voltage you will change the amperage. For instance, while 12 ÷ 12 = 1 amp, if you up the voltage to 24 volts (for example), 24 ÷ 12 = 2A. So if you use the incorrect voltage (higher than rated) you will draw more current. NOW: Voltage times Amperage equals Wattage. {a.k.a "Heat") So at 12V & 1A you get 12W(watts). At 24V & 2A you get (24 x 2) 48W. A whole lot more heat. And if the motor windings and insulation can not withstand that much heat then the motor will burn.

Back to your original question about fuses: As you can see, it can get complicated. But with regards fuses, in the first example, if the motor at stall draws 1 amp and you use a 1 amp fuse it's likely the fuse will blow, but not immediately. And with repeated stalls, the fuse will weaken and eventually give out. If you use too large a fuse then the motor will overheat and instead of the fuse burning out your motor will.
[end edit]

 

It would appear at the instant of switch on or stall condition, the motor will offer a resistance of just below 1Ω.
Based on the 14a stall current.
As soon as the motor starts to rotate it generates a voltage that increases with rpm and opposes the applied voltage, thereby reducing the current.
Max.

 

I picked out 2 motors with high starting current , about 1 ohm resistance,
and tried to start on SMPS 12 V, 2 A; as expected PS shut down. Added 2 ohm in series & motors take off; short 2 ohm & speed doubles. Added 3.3k mF C to PS= no help without added 2 ohm R.
Speculation: Nerf flywheel 1" dia. hard surface, dart semi soft, V 120ft/s.
Ping Pong ball hard surface, flywheel 2"- 4" soft surface, well balanced.

 

Re. post # 23. I tried several different series resistors; .15 ohm too low,
.47, .94, 1.5, & 2.44 all OK. 5 too large. Automatic bypassing might be done with a P Ch. FET, NPN, a capacitor, & a few Rs. If I can scrape up a bit of ambition , will breadboard it tomorrow.

 

Maybe not great but it does the job. IRF9540 not ideal but best that I have. Motor, All Electronics, CAT# DCM-462, Johnson Motor HC613LG-6411, no load 1.5A, about .5 ohm, 3 mm X 6 mm shaft, $ 1.75. On start there is no noticeable speed step but with gate tied high speed stays medium. With 1.5 R shorted at turn on motor does not start.
Leftover part- 1M R to discharge C.

 

Just for kicks , replaced 10 uF with 300 & added 1M. Now Whrrrr, 11 sec later Wheeee.

 

I have a wall plug that supplies 12 volts and is rated for 2 amps, and I want to use it to supply power to this DC motor.
The motor's spec sheet indicates its idle current is 0.6 amps, which is perfectly in range. However, the stall current is 14 amps. Do I have to worry about blowing any fuses if the stall current is reached (i.e. either the circuit breaker in my house is tripped or the wall plug catches on fire), or does the wall plug handle this (i.e. 2 amps is the max output, and the motor cannot draw more than that)?

For more context, in my project, the stall current should never really be reached. I plan on attaching a flywheel to the DC motor to shoot out ping pong balls periodically, so there will be brief spikes in current required by the motor.

The wall outlet current will not get up to 12 AMPS because it is at 120 volts, and if the 12 amps could happen it would be at the 12 volt level. 12 volts x 12 amps is 144 watts, while the outlet fused at 15 amps and carrying 120 volts will provide 120 x 15 = 1800 watts at max load.
For a voltage step down power supply, current out can not ever equal current in.