What's wrong with my modulus 12 counter?

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
My point was that if you installed the chips in sockets, you could add decoupling caps by inserting sockets with integral caps into the existing sockets. That would be a way to put a cap on every chip without requiring soldering.

If the problem persists after doing that, I'd focus on the clock coming from the minutes counter. I'd probably use a non-retriggerable one shot to stretch the pulse to see if that helps. If it does, the problem is identified and an acceptable solution can be pursued.
I give up. The help has to come from Aliens. I appreciate all you have done for me. I ordered some .1 uF capacitors.
 

djsfantasi

Joined Apr 11, 2010
9,156
Huh?

  1. For each socket, you order a new socket with the decoupling capacitor included.
  2. Plug the new socket into the old socket.
  3. Plug the original ICs into the new sockets
  4. Test
That’s it! You’ll end up with “sandwich”. Original socket. New decoupled socket. IC. I don’t think it’s too hard to understand.
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,846
I appreciate all you have done for me. I ordered some .1 uF capacitors.
Since it seems that you installed the chips in sockets, you could buy sockets with integral decoupling caps so it would be easy for you to swap them in and out where you live.

I had some dual wipe sockets that would accommodate an axial ceramic cap without modification:
1585610764592.png

I had some machined pin sockets were the cap looked like it might be too high, so I used a Dremel tool to make a cavity:
1585610887101.png
 

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
Since it seems that you installed the chips in sockets, you could buy sockets with integral decoupling caps so it would be easy for you to swap them in and out where you live.

I had some dual wipe sockets that would accommodate an axial ceramic cap without modification:
View attachment 202986

I had some machined pin sockets were the cap looked like it might be too high, so I used a Dremel tool to make a cavity:
View attachment 202987
The .1uf I ordered came today but I measured it with my meter and it's half that amount or .05uf. I ordered 30 but they were very small like picofarad capacitors. Whoever has caused mental illness is compromising the physical structure also. Fixing the physical in such a crude way as you explained should not have to happen. Today I reasoned that the problem of the miscount could be the current surge of the display boards as the numbers are changing, so then I think I will put the capacitors on those boards where the power leads go in. That would be the seconds, minutes, and hours display boards.
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,846
Fixing the physical in such a crude way as you explained should not have to happen.
I don't think it's crude. Whoever thought of selling sockets with integral caps had a good idea. It saves hobbyists from having to do it.

I'm just trying to give you some options that comply with your inability to solder where you live.

The only socket with integral decoupling capacitor that I found was at Mouser for $5.80 each (it was 24 pins).
1585619725298.png

For 50 cents, you could make your own like I did.

Today I reasoned that the problem of the miscount could be the current surge of the display boards as the numbers are changing, so then I think I will put the capacitors on those boards where the power leads go in.
Use some electrolytic caps. I'd start with 470uF and go up or down from there.
 

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
I don't think it's crude. Whoever thought of selling sockets with integral caps had a good idea. It saves hobbyists from having to do it.

I'm just trying to give you some options that comply with your inability to solder where you live.

The only socket with integral decoupling capacitor that I found was at Mouser for $5.80 each (it was 24 pins).
View attachment 202993

For 50 cents, you could make your own like I did.


Use some electrolytic caps. I'd start with 470uF and go up or down from there.
I think I'll stick with the .1 microfarad capacitors (.05uF) because the switching rate of the displays is very fast and only for a short time. It's too expensive for me to buy the sockets especially when there's so many on the boards (14) with minimal space. It's too much for me to build the sockets with the capacitor. I live in Haverstraw New York and my mother lives in the Bronx. I will have to wait till the coronavirus problem is rectified and then I can take the clock there and solder the capacitors on the boards. I have to use public transportation. I think when people are trying to find a solution for a problem they don't want to help the MAN with the mental transformation of the physical and that's why we have to work, often so hard. They want us to follow the process of the truth which is the deception because it does not employ the soul. You've been a great teacher dl324 and I hope I've enlightened you with my mind.
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,846
It's too expensive for me to buy the sockets especially when there's so many on the boards (14) with minimal space. It's too much for me to build the sockets with the capacitor.
I could make them for you. Post a picture of your board(s) so I can see what constraints you have.
You've been a great teacher dl324 and I hope I've enlightened you with my mind.
Your ingenuity and persistence in the face of adversity inspires me.
 

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
I could make them for you. Post a picture of your board(s) so I can see what constraints you have.
Your ingenuity and persistence in the face of adversity inspires me.
I don't have the clearance for a double socket plus the display ICs are right against the case when it's closed. Thanks for your kind offer but I have to decline since I plan to solder in the .1uF capacitors. I opened the case this morning and I noticed that there was no electrolytic capacitor across the output of the regulated 5.3V power supply so I installed a 470 microfarad capacitor with short alligator clip jumpers. I barely noticed but I'm sure that the hour jumped from one to two when I was installing the backup battery. The backup battery powers the clock logic circuits but not the three displays for seconds, minutes, and hours to conserve the battery. I think the devil was testing the belief of God and that caused the diode for the battery to conduct, creating a momentary short to the power supply that cause a short of the left and right hemispheres of the brain and that made the hour jump ahead by 1. This is an example of how I use my paranoia to understand the unknown.
Backup.png20200331_132841_Burst01.jpg
20200331_132818.jpg
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,846
I noticed that there was no electrolytic capacitor across the output of the regulated 5.3V
Where is this supply connected with respect to the 9V battery and the half wave rectified output from the transformer.

The next time you're designing a project, let me know if you'd like some help on reducing the wiring. Long wires can couple signals and cause erratic behavior.
 

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
I'm sorry I forgot to put the 7805 regulator which goes after Clock Power on the schematic and it has a diode from adjust to ground to raise the voltage a little. So the output of the 7805 is really the clock power source.
 

Thread Starter

Arjune

Joined Jan 6, 2018
234
The problem is I needed the capacitors at the primary of the adapter so when I unplugged it or plugged it in the wall there wouldn't be spikes. C3 was also removed because I think there were battery surges when the AC adapter plug was changed to in the socket or out. I also noticed that the hours counter changed when a fan was turned on or off when C1 and C2 was not there. The rectified AC is the adapter.


battery backup.png
 
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