Macnerd, no offense meant, but have to ask this. How does someone get to retirement age(from your original post) and never own a drill? And again no offense, but this is seeming more and more like you are trolling us.

Up until now, believe it or not, I've never had a need for a drill. I don't even have a soldering iron. My dad had a Craftsman soldering gun. Since I'm retired, I'm on a fixed income so I can't afford a super-duper drill or soldering iron. Ditto for a multimeter which I also need.

I've got some screwdrivers, pliers, & hex wrenches, but that's the extent of my tools.

So, basically I'm starting my electronics hobby from scratch.

I'm sorry that I'm asking so many questions.

Do I need different kinds of drills for plastic, metal, wood, etc. or does one kind work for metal, plastic, wood, etc.?

 

Do I need different kinds of drills for plastic, metal, wood, etc. or does one kind work for metal, plastic, wood, etc.?

A drill capable of giving you up to 2,000 RPMs should work for most materials. Also, make sure that you buy good quality HSS (high-speed steel) bits.

 

A drill capable of giving you up to 2,000 RPMs should work for most materials. Also, make sure that you buy good quality HSS (high-speed steel) bits.

I saw that on a YouTube video. The narrator said that carbide bits are brittle & will break when dropped. Sure enough, a bit broke when he dropped it on the floor. The tungsten (or is it titanium) bits are just steel coated with tungsten. He recommended HSS bits.

What's the clutch for on a drill? Is it like a torque wrench - you set the clutch to slip when a certain torque is exceeded?

 

I've worn out my share of cordless drills:

Bosch, gear box jammed
Makita, motor started to smoke
DeWalt, fell apart in my hands...!
Panasonic, housing cracked

I ended up with a Hilti. Some colleagues are sworn Milkwakee fans, but I'm a Hilti guy.

I've never tried Festool, because I think some of the models looks awkward. Now that's a valid reason.

 

I saw that on a YouTube video. The narrator said that carbide bits are brittle & will break when dropped. Sure enough, a bit broke when he dropped it on the floor. The tungsten (or is it titanium) bits are just steel coated with tungsten. He recommended HSS bits.

What's the clutch for on a drill? Is it like a torque wrench - you set the clutch to slip when a certain torque is exceeded?

The tungsten drills your talking about are a waste of money for around the house use. TIN(the tungsten) is a coating put on a HSS drill or other tool. If you need to sharpen it, no more coating on the cutting surface, only about one molecule thick. TIN, tungsten nitride really, is something they came up with to keep the metal that's being cut from welding to the tool, from the heat and speed in a CNC machine. For normal manual machining it's a waste of money. Because it's not possible to machine at the same speed as a CNC. I was a die maker for ~50 years and still do my own machining in my home shop.

The clutch isn't very accurate, not like a torque wrench. But can be set to drive screws. Don't use it my self, just keep mine set on the drill setting.

 

A small correction, shortbus. But TiN stands for Titanium Nitride. Other than that, I agree 100% with what you've said.

 

A drill capable of giving you up to 2,000 RPMs should work for most materials. Also, make sure that you buy good quality HSS (high-speed steel) bits.

I've seen drill/driver. I assume that driver refers to screwdriver? I have a "manual" screwdriver with different types of bits, but it sure would be nice to have the option of using an electric "screwdriver"!

 

If you look for Driver Bit Sets, you can get a hex to square fitting for the chuck that takes all kinds of screwdriver formats including Allen Screw bits, very handy for machines screws that are long in the thread.
You could probably use the ones you have in it.
Max.

 

What's the clutch for on a drill? Is it like a torque wrench - you set the clutch to slip when a certain torque is exceeded?

That's exactly what it is. And it's intended for use as a screwdriver. For drilling purposes, you normally set it to non-slip, full clutch.

 

...I can't afford a super-duper drill or soldering iron. Ditto for a multimeter which I also need.

Here are my choices for soldering iron and multimeter. I use them both for household handyman stuff, car repair, DIY and hobbyist projects. They exceed my needs for this type of work. I'll spend more if/when I ever need to, but I don't see that happening.

The infamous Harbor Freight multimeter, often available free with any purchase with a coupon. (I have a half dozen of these around the house, never paid for any of them).

My Stahl soldering station from Parts-Express (and other places):


Don't forget that you'll need solder, such as this. Wire strippers are also a godsend if you need them. I've used the crappy ones and will never go back, now that I've got these. They're still fairly cheap, but infinitely better than the absolute cheapest ones.

Do I need different kinds of drills for plastic, metal, wood, etc. or does one kind work for metal, plastic, wood, etc.?

The short answer is no, one drill and one (good) set of bits is good for all. But if you find yourself doing a lot of projects in one material, more specialized bits can be helpful. A drill press will usually have at least 3 speed settings, and you would prefer high speed for metal and low speed for plastic. Hand drills often have variable speed control, but most people just squeeze the trigger to max and go with it.

 

The infamous Harbor Freight multimeter

infamous?

 

infamous?

The TS has a right to know there is not universal love for this tool.

 

high speed for metal

I think this depends on the metal type (cast iron, steel and aluminium), and the size of the drill bit. When drilling in metal, I always use "cutting oil", and take my time. The drill bits will also stay sharp longer.

 

The TS has a right to know there is not universal love for this tool.

Infamy does not nor should not imply love or even acceptance.

That said I too have this meter and oft use it when it is appropriate, most notably when any sort of voltage indication is far better than my own wet finger used as a probe.

 

I think this depends on the metal type (cast iron, steel and aluminium), and the size of the drill bit. When drilling in metal, I always use "cutting oil", and take my time. The drill bits will also stay sharp longer.

There is an ideal speed and advance rate for every combination of material, drill type and size. There are even published tables for some of the combinations. Most homeowners end up just use the one drill bit they have that is the right size and set the drill on or off. And yeah, I always use oil for metal drilling also. If nothing else, it slows down the shrapnel.

 

most notably when any sort of voltage indication is far better than my own wet finger used as a probe.

it's kind of sad when an instrument's performance is referenced to one's bodily senses...

 

it's kind of sad when an instrument's performance is referenced to one's bodily senses...

Ever hear of an electronic nose? Being as good as a nose is high praise.

 

I've been repairing machines since before battery operated drills were invented. They save a lot of time when you have to take out 18 screws to get inside a TV or an air conditioner. The clutch is for putting the screws back in without stripping the substrate. Nobody wants 10 stripped screw holes in the back of their TV or half a dozen stripped screws trying to hold the cover on their air conditioner.

Full force from a good battery drill will strip any sheet metal screw and any wood screw less than an inch long. Use the clutch and you can go fast without ruining the screw holes.

 

It used to be said, a hammer is for putting wood screws in, a screwdriver was for taking them out.
Before hand drills we had pump screwdrivers, AKA Yankee screwdrivers, even in England!!
Max.

 

Before hand drills we had pump screwdrivers, AKA Yankee screwdrivers, even in England!!

And before that, there was the hand drill with a screw driver bit attached to its chuck:

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