U should have a figure.
Sometimes tablets takes 1 to 2 amps. My one takes 1.5A.
So what is ur requirements.

I usually scoop around aliexpress to find one that could do what I want.

 

U should have a figure.
Sometimes tablets takes 1 to 2 amps. My one takes 1.5A.
So what is ur requirements.

I usually scoop around aliexpress to find one that could do what I want.

about the tablets and phones yes - but the instruments i have to find their datasheets - but what will go wrong if i "just" make sure that there is enough? like 10amps? Sorry if this is too newbie ?
my idea is to divide the 12v instruments into groups and have them have their own converter? or atleast the car charger plug should not be shared with any of the instruments buck converter.. my reason for this is, I think the current converter was having a hard time supporting the charging of two phones and two tablets while still deliver 12v to the instruments

 

do u want a ready made one or make one for ur self?

 

do u want a ready made one or make one for ur self?

if "make one ur self" is a - just solder kit - then yes if not i think i am better of with a "blackbox" - while I really want to learn but also i need to be sure that my instruments are protected from me (if I do anything wrong)

but i would like the possibility to choose

 

I seem to 'mem the 7812 app note showing a 10 amp build.
I frequently use a string of diodes as a voltage drop down to ~3V over regulator output to keep heat down.
There are 3 amp single device versions too.

 

I use these most of the time
It's good for 2A at 12V dropout. Like 24V in to 12V out @2A. Still it will need a heatsink. With thick silicon pads heatsink can be mounted. Mounting is very tricky with these. I use touble sided thick silicon pad with good thermal transfer and stick it to the heatsink.
These are switch modes so load is protected even if the module shorts, from what I found out.
Don't even think of drawing 5A from these, it will fail. 5Amp load is for very low dropout voltages.
Even at 3A u will need good heatsinking.

Get one and find out urself. They are cheap, so I buy them bulk to tinker too.

The link I gave could be a bit expensive. Searching around will get u cheaper at more qty.

 

By the way 10A is a lot of power at 24V input to 12V out.
The module should dissipate 120W, which is a lot.
U need a very good bigger converter for these kinda power rating.

 

By the way 10A is a lot of power at 24V input to 12V out.
The module should dissipate 120W, which is a lot.
U need a very good bigger converter for these kinda power rating.

Hi everyone

I will try with this-> http://www.xlsemi.com/datasheet/xl4016 datasheet.pdf


It seems it can do the trick and support enough amps

Any reason for not trying ?

Regards

Dennis.

 

Making a switch mode supply is a lot easier now than it was years ago, but there are still traps. The correct component selection is very important, as is the circuit layout.
By all means, have a go at making one, but read up on design notes first.
Another way is to look at Ebay or another on line outlet. There are lots of buck converters available.
For example, a quick screen grab of a small selection...

Note, these prices are high as they are Australian dollars.

 

Hi everyone

I will try with this-> http://www.xlsemi.com/datasheet/xl4016 datasheet.pdf


It seems it can do the trick and support enough amps

Any reason for not trying ?

Regards

Dennis.

Heatsinking is important.
The inductor design, PCB layout & feed back path are the tricky things in high current SMPS.
U cannot do this on a vero board unless you are very good