Hello

I have a very simple question:
I have this WiFi switch which remote I want to imbed in a standard wall switch. Here are two fotos of it. I want to weld two wires of the standard switch (that close it obviously) to the board of that remote, but the switch button on the board has 4 “legs” (see fotos)
Which ones are to use in my case?

 

Sorry, I wrote in French on the Foto;

Between 1&3: current flows
Between 2&4: current flows
Between 2&3: current flows when i push the switch on the board
Between 1&4: current flows when I push the switch in the board

 

Is that device rated for 15A AC service? Doesn't look like it. It would be dangerous to use it in an unintended way

 

You most likely will find that two on each side are common, i.e. same connection.
so any one on each side can be used.
What power do you intend switching?

 

It’s just a “smart wifi switch” to switch a light on and off. The board is in the round remote.

 

That board is not the switch, it is the remote that activates the switch.

The other module is the switch. That is the one you need to attach to the light switch.

And it is not WIFI, it is a 433MHz RF remote.

 

That board is not the switch, it is the remote that activates the switch.

The other module is the switch. That is the one you need to attach to the light switch.

And it is not WIFI, it is a 433MHz RF remote.

You are absolutely right, and my goal is to have the board of the remote hidden behind the wall push button with the push button connected to it.

 

Bonjour.
soudre is translated to weld.

In english, when we use the word weld we think of this:


In english, we use the word solder. I don't know the french word except soudure électronique.


This is called brazing.

 

You are absolutely right, and my goal is to have the board of the remote hidden behind the wall push button with the push button connected to it.

I must be missing something here. What is in the wall box now, and what does it control? What is the remote supposed to control? Where does the receiver go and what is it connected to?

In any case, do not connect the remote to the house wiring unless your intent is to create smoke. The remote is self contained and does not connect to anything else.

 

It looks as though the wireless switch you have has inputs which require mains Live and Neutral connections. In many houses (in the UK at least) the wall switches for room lights have only Live and Switched Live connections..... no Neutral. How are your wall switches wired?

 

maybe my explanation was not clear, sorry.
I just want to avoid this round remote on the wall and use the one that is unused on the wall instead by welding the remote to it.

 

The tactile push button I have encountered is a SPST switch = single pole - single throw.
Connect your wall switch to 1 and 2 and see if this works.

 

So, it sounds like you want to use the existing switch in a wall box to control the remote. That is not at all what I got from your previous posts.

Several things:

You MUST NOT connect any of the mains wiring to the board. If there is live mains wiring in the box, you MUST cap it off so it cannot touch anything when removed from the switch.

If the switch is your is your typical toggle switch, you will have to flip it up and down to make it act like the momentary contact switch the remote it expecting. Is this what you expect?

 

There is no simple way to use that remote control assembly safely to switch a mains power load, such as a light. None!!
At best you will have a shock hazard, at worst start a fire inside the electrical box. And if you use a steel box that is fire resistant then it will probably shield the receiver so that nothing will work.
In the photos there are no components visible on the board suitable for switching mains level power. There are devices made to provide that function safely, and that is not one of them.

 

There is no simple way to use that remote control assembly safely to switch a mains power load, such as a light. None!!

We got past that already.

It turns out he is not trying to switch mains with that board. What he is trying to do is put the board in the switch box and use the existing switch to activate the remote instead of the tact switch on the board. I have told him he must remove the mains wires from the switch and cap them off, whether he understands that is another question.

 

OK, I missed that somehow. Connecting wires to the module would not be a challenge for one skilled at soldering, while somebody who equates soldering with welding will probably not produce a success. Soldering to small connections supported by a small PCB takes a fair amount of understanding of what one is doing.
Probably the TS should switch off the power before removing the switch plate from the box, and then carefully remove the wires from under the connection screws. BUT if the wires are connected with the push-in scheme then releasing them is difficult to describe. Joining the two wires with a single wire nut is the way to go, if the TS is able to understand clockwise as a rotation direction.

 

Probably the TS should switch off the power before removing the switch plate from the box

DEFINITELY: not 'probably'.

Joining the two wires with a single wire nut is the way to go

If you're in the US. I doubt the TS is, as (s)he's French-speaking. Wire nuts aren't used universally.

 

Placing that remote inside an electrical box, connected to a conventional wall switch presents at least three problems. (parts of these things have been mentioned, I think)

1. Power
The coin cell will eventually need replacement. This will require removing both the plate and (most probably) the switch to access it, not the best option.

2. The Switch
A conventional toggle switch is not suitable for this application. The existing switch would have to be replaced with a momentary switch. While I haven't searched for one, nor do I know what the standard switch looks like in France, it seems an unlikely item.

3. RF Performance
Depending on the box and plate, this may be like putting the switch in a faraday cage. If the box and plate are plastic, it shouldn't be a problem, but if they are metallic, and if the box is bonded to earth, it could be a real challenge.

The correct way to do this is with a purpose built wireless wall switch. Although this one (English) is designed to be flush mounted on a wall, it appears it could be mounted over the French style box with a blank plate installed. It uses kinetic power, so no batteries, and it is going to be safe. There are many other options as well, this is just an example.

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[edited to add image]

 

Not to be an idiot here, but this is not brazing, this is soldering. Brazing involves applying a brass filler metal to the joint.

This is called brazing.

 

A conventional toggle switch is not suitable for this application. The existing switch would have to be replaced with a momentary switch.

Agreed. If a conventional toggle switch were left in the 'on' position inadvertently, the remote's battery probably wouldn't last long.