The Gorilla Snot I'm familiar with wasn't a glue but a sealant, used it in sealing the joint of motorcycle engine cases. Where no gasket was used.

Think you guys have the wrong idea on thread lockers. They too are not adhesives as such and never found them to work in that situation. While called a locker, they do that by taking up the clearance between the threads. Threads have to have clearances to allow them to work. The thread locker does the same thing, but in a different way, as a lock washer.
Still say that what I said on ETO, the rear view mirror adhesive is the best bet. It comes in a small amount so no bottle sitting around unused going bad, and it's strong and made to bond metal.

Hi,

Yes i believe you, and thanks for the idea. Mainly i created this thread to hear opinions about using thread locker for other things like the magnet, but again note the magnet does not have to be glued down it is already held down so all that needs to be done is prevent it from rotating, just like a screw. That is what made me think of thread locker. I have epoxy around but was wondering how thread locker would work in that situation and possibly other situations too. What started this was i saw that when taking apart the original magnet/screw/plate with thread locker on the threads only i noticed that some of the thread locker was on the nut itself, on the outside of the nut, and it had hardened, and it was very very difficult to knock that small bit off of the nut with a screwdriver. It was like it turned to stone. Very hard, but i am not sure how brittle because it was a tiny bit. I think it finally came off but it took some doing. That made me think it might work for other things too.
I also have some super glue, but that stuff cracks too easy and peels off. I have some high grade super glue that was relatively expensive but once i open it it will be prone to drying up so i hesitate to open it just for this little project.

So this was mainly an inquiry to find out what others thought about thread locker and it's uses, but it was interesting to hear about the other stuff too.
I also see that the Locktite Retaining stuff is rather expensive. This is such a little project i cant justify paying 10 bucks for two drops of fluid

 

I have also used Fel-Pro Steel Putty Epoxy.
You can fill a void and machine it.
https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/epoxies/permatex-steel-weld-epoxy-2/
Max.

 

Think you guys have the wrong idea on thread lockers. They too are not adhesives as such and never found them to work in that situation. While called a locker, they do that by taking up the clearance between the threads.

I thought the methacrylate backbone of the thread lockers made them very similar to the cyanoacrylate super glues, just with a different mechanism to catalyze polymerization. The cyanoacrylates are self-catalyzing when exposed to air, and the thread lockers react with the metal surface.

 

I thought the methacrylate backbone of the thread lockers made them very similar to the cyanoacrylate super glues, just with a different mechanism to catalyze polymerization. The cyanoacrylates are self-catalyzing when exposed to air, and the thread lockers react with the metal surface.

The thread lockers are anaerobic, that's why they don't harden in the bottle, to my knowledge they aren't cyanoacrylate based. I've got bottles of loctite that are over 20 years old and still are liquid and active.The cyanoacylate is polymerized by moisture isn't? I know years ago they used to mist water on some things at work before joining them with cyanoacylate. But like many things I may be wrong.

 

That all sounds vaguely familiar. I was just speculating that the type of catalyst system didn't matter so much, that the results were very similar once the polymer hardens.

 

Hi,

Thread locker, at last some types, can take up to 500 degrees F whereas regular glue or epoxy cant get near that.

 

Hi,

Thread locker, at last some types, can take up to 500 degrees F whereas regular glue or epoxy cant get near that.

The one I posted is good up to 300°F.
Max.

 

Thread locker, at last some types, can take up to 500 degrees F whereas regular glue or epoxy cant get near that.

JBWeld is good to continuous 500°F and 600°F for brief (10 minute) exposure. It's commonly used on engine parts for this reason.

 

But is JB compatible with a close fitting part? The powdered metal in it needs a certain gap to get is strength. Never had much luck when using it between two flanges. To build up on top of something or fill a gap it's great, but holding two parts in close fit, a unfilled Epoxy is better. Just my experience with it.

 

But is JB compatible with a close fitting part?

As far as I know, yes. It's often used to fix cracks in metal, for instance crankcases. I think the biggest problem with it is when you have too much of it, and thermal expansion and contraction of the metal is not the same as the cured epoxy, so it breaks loose.

 

But is JB compatible with a close fitting part? The powdered metal in it needs a certain gap to get is strength. Never had much luck when using it between two flanges. To build up on top of something or fill a gap it's great, but holding two parts in close fit, a unfilled Epoxy is better. Just my experience with it.

Hi,

I totally agree, as i have found the same thing.

In fact, i have found that most 'regular' epoxies do not work well in thin applications because they stay too flexible. The problems i saw included one where they would peel up like skin.

The best application i have found with epoxy is to apply it as thick as possible and when possible make the surface such that is has physical 'holds' for the epoxy once it dries. This means the epoxy becomes like part of an interlocking puzzle piece that once dry locks the two pieces to be joined together for all eternity. I've used it just on surfaces too but try to cut grooves or something into the pieces to be joined so that the epoxy has a sure hold.
Another way to get this effect is to put studs into one of the pieces when it is not possible to drill both pieces but one piece can be drilled, such as on a thin metal surface where the metal can be drilled but not the piece to be glued on. With both studs sticking out of the metal surface and grooves in the piece to be glued, the epoxy hardens around the bolts making a very strong and lasting bond.
I almost did this very thing once with a battery charger where the meter plastic face broke off. I had to attach a new plastic face. I say 'almost' because i got in a hurry that day and just glued it on with epoxy but i would have preferred to mount some anchoring studs first. I am hoping it does not come off

 

Hi,

I totally agree, as i have found the same thing.

In fact, i have found that most 'regular' epoxies do not work well in thin applications because they stay too flexible. The problems i saw included one where they would peel up like skin.

The best application i have found with epoxy is to apply it as thick as possible and when possible make the surface such that is has physical 'holds' for the epoxy once it dries. This means the epoxy becomes like part of an interlocking puzzle piece that once dry locks the two pieces to be joined together for all eternity. I've used it just on surfaces too but try to cut grooves or something into the pieces to be joined so that the epoxy has a sure hold.
Another way to get this effect is to put studs into one of the pieces when it is not possible to drill both pieces but one piece can be drilled, such as on a thin metal surface where the metal can be drilled but not the piece to be glued on. With both studs sticking out of the metal surface and grooves in the piece to be glued, the epoxy hardens around the bolts making a very strong and lasting bond.
I almost did this very thing once with a battery charger where the meter plastic face broke off. I had to attach a new plastic face. I say 'almost' because i got in a hurry that day and just glued it on with epoxy but i would have preferred to mount some anchoring studs first. I am hoping it does not come off

The jbweld works surprisily well on thin applications. It is formulated to bond with steel. It is filled with metal powder to moderate thermal expansion. The thin layer of metal powder (25 micron) maintains a gap between parts to improve bonding.

It is very thin on initial mixing (A/B two part system). It flows well and bonds to powdered metal as well as stamped steel or bolts. I highly recommend it. Mix well before applying.

 

The Loctite will not work well because the air has to be removed (as in a bolt thread in a nut or, better, a blind tap). The free radical polymerization is "oxygen inhibited" and will remain liquid unless a fairly tight seal can be made to avoid oxygen exchange.

 

The jbweld works surprisily well on thin applications. It is formulated to bond with steel. It is filled with metal powder to moderate thermal expansion. The thin layer of metal powder (25 micron) maintains a gap between parts to improve bonding.

It is very thin on initial mixing (A/B two part system). It flows well and bonds to powdered metal as well as stamped steel or bolts. I highly recommend it. Mix well before applying.

Hi,

Very interesting. I've also recommended JB Weld on several occasions. Mostly because i have used it quite extensively in application that vary over a wide range.

For one, i used it on an automobile for what was called the secondary air system check valve. At the time the car was getting old so it was hard to obtain a new check valve, and the old one had the hose nipple rotted by rust. I had to cut off the rust and install a new nipple made from a piece of steel pipe, and to hold it into the body of the old check valve i used the standard JB Weld (not the fast drying one).
For same car, i used if for the SAS air valve, which needed an entire new cover because the old one rusted out. That was not to be found anywhere, so i had to epoxy a large pipe cap to the body and so i used JB Weld for that too. Lasted several years and then i finally got rid of the car.

I've used it for many other things too and also used the JB Quik but that is for lower temperature stuff.

The test i did on the two magnets seems like it was successful. After about two days drying i cant get the magnets apart using my fingers when before i could.

Next, i'll make a magnetic monopole by gluing two magnets back to back, with both south poles facing each other (ha ha) This way both poles of the finished magnet will both be North

 

Hi,

Very interesting. I've also recommended JB Weld on several occasions. Mostly because i have used it quite extensively in application that vary over a wide range.

For one, i used it on an automobile for what was called the secondary air system check valve. At the time the car was getting old so it was hard to obtain a new check valve, and the old one had the hose nipple rotted by rust. I had to cut off the rust and install a new nipple made from a piece of steel pipe, and to hold it into the body of the old check valve i used the standard JB Weld (not the fast drying one).
For same car, i used if for the SAS air valve, which needed an entire new cover because the old one rusted out. That was not to be found anywhere, so i had to epoxy a large pipe cap to the body and so i used JB Weld for that too. Lasted several years and then i finally got rid of the car.

I've used it for many other things too and also used the JB Quik but that is for lower temperature stuff.

The test i did on the two magnets seems like it was successful. After about two days drying i cant get the magnets apart using my fingers when before i could.

Next, i'll make a magnetic monopole by gluing two magnets back to back, with both south poles facing each other (ha ha) This way both poles of the finished magnet will both be North

You said you did the test and it was successful but which one did you end up using - Loctite or JBWeld?

 

Hi again,

I used the thread lock, but i have now done more with this.

The thread lock worked on the two magnets, and seemed pretty strong, so i applied it to a second magnet in the actual application which is placed directly next to the first magnet so as to create a larger surface area for better holding ability. After drying over night it seemed strong. But then after about a week it let loose when i apply a little more than usual force. Thus i had to do something else, so i stuck a screw through the center and tightened it up and now it is solid. I didnt think i would have room for that, but i used a tiny 1mm diameter screw and nut with washer. The head sticks up a little so it will have to be ground, but that's all that seems to be left to do now.
The finished thing looks kind of funny but it works pretty well because now there are two magnets and they are the strong rare earth type. There's no way it will fall off of a steel piece when stuck on. The magnetic surface area is now 3/4 inches by 3/4 inches and the light is rather small.
The two magnets being right next to each other and touching means neither magnet can rotate, and that's good too.