Hello everyone. I'm not good at this stuff..that's why I came to this forum, very maybe I can find a solution here. I have this triggerable mp3 board that triggers a sound when connected via ground or 'ground pulse'. I want to know if there is solution to hook this thing up on a few switches that I already installed. Actually I need to reconnect all the switches and hook them seperatly trough the board to make every switch work...is there any other solution so I can trigger an audiofile without totally rewire the switches?

 

Welcome to AAC!

Actually I need to reconnect all the switches and hook them seperatly trough the board to make every switch work...is there any other solution so I can trigger an audiofile without totally rewire the switches?

If the switches are all normally open, you can connect another normally open switch in parallel with an existing switch and have either of them be able to trigger that input.

I assume the switches you've marked as K aren't actually relays. We normally use S or SW as a switch designator.

 

Welcome to AAC!
If the switches are all normally open, you can connect another normally open switch in parallel with an existing switch and have either of them be able to trigger that input.

I assume the switches you've marked as K aren't actually relays. We normally use S or SW as a switch designator.

Ok, thanks for this answer but I think I must make the situation more clear. These flip swithes (ON-OFF)are already built in and I have no room anymore for more. If there was a solution like I could send a seperate 'ground pulse' with 1 wire from each switch..it should make my life much easier I think ..or something like that

 

OK, now it gets complex. Are the switches also controlling some other circuit? My guess is that you have a "thing" that has all of these switches already mounted on it, and already controlling some other function, different from the sound module shown. THen my guess is that you want each switch to activat both whatever the other function is AND the sound module. If both the present application and the sound module us a logic "low" (ground) to activate then that is certainly possible. But you will need to add a few passive components, one for each input to the module.
You need to power the module and measure what voltage all of those inputs are at when they are not activated. That is quite important. Then you need to try activating an input with a diode to the ground (common) , which needs to work if my simple method is to work.

 

OK, now it gets complex. Are the switches also controlling some other circuit? My guess is that you have a "thing" that has all of these switches already mounted on it, and already controlling some other function, different from the sound module shown. THen my guess is that you want each switch to activat both whatever the other function is AND the sound module. If both the present application and the sound module us a logic "low" (ground) to activate then that is certainly possible. But you will need to add a few passive components, one for each input to the module.
You need to power the module and measure what voltage all of those inputs are at when they are not activated. That is quite important. Then you need to try activating an input with a diode to the ground (common) , which needs to work if my simple method is to work.

Exactly. These flipswitches are in a project car. And they are already wired. So for example one flipswitch is for switch on some led lights, the other is for a 12v input adapter, and so on and on. So it's hard for me to rewire everything, and hook everything trough this board. So a diode should do the trick..this is interesting. I'm going to investigate this further. Thank you for the info sir!

 

Exactly. These flipswitches are in a project car. And they are already wired. So for example one flipswitch is for switch on some led lights, the other is for a 12v input adapter, and so on and on. So it's hard for me to rewire everything, and hook everything trough this board. So a diode should do the trick..this is interesting. I'm going to investigate this further. Thank you for the info sir!

There is a bit more than just a diode, because the voltage at those control inputs needs to be limited to some value that we do not know yet, because you have not checked and reported it. But the circuit to do that, normally called a clamp circuit, is very simple.
Of course, I am hoping the the present switches are already switching those other functions by applying a ground . If they are switching a voltage source it gets more complicated.
Can you provide a sketch of the switch portion of the other control functions? That will tell me what else will be needed.

 

You have not told us how the switches are wired now!

If it is possible to add an LED that is turned on by each switch, an optocoupler would do the trick. If, on the other hand, switches are switching to ground , and the supply for the board is the same as that of the switched devices, you can wire them to the board with no additional components.

Bob

 

A clamp function would be required if the switches are pulling down, and unless an active device or an opto-isolator is used, a clamp can protect that sound generator board.

 

Thank you guys for the info, I have here a videolink where I try to describe my problem, maybe this helps a little bit more. All the switches in the car are hooked up and grounded directly from the carbattery. Videolink: https://f.io/9hDLtuPn

 

There is a bit more than just a diode, because the voltage at those control inputs needs to be limited to some value that we do not know yet, because you have not checked and reported it. But the circuit to do that, normally called a clamp circuit, is very simple.
Of course, I am hoping the the present switches are already switching those other functions by applying a ground . If they are switching a voltage source it gets more complicated.
Can you provide a sketch of the switch portion of the other control functions? That will tell me what else will be needed.

I've putted a videolink below

 

You have not told us how the switches are wired now!

If it is possible to add an LED that is turned on by each switch, an optocoupler would do the trick. If, on the other hand, switches are switching to ground , and the supply for the board is the same as that of the switched devices, you can wire them to the board with no additional components.

Bob

Hey Bob, putted a videolink inhere: https://f.io/9hDLtuPn

 

The inputs to the soundboard are most likely high impedance, so if all of the switches that do this or that are all switching on the low side you could probably just run a wire from each (switched side) to the soundboard inputs.

Steering diodes should be used if the inputs are not high impedance.

Now if the already installed switches are switching on the high side, then some relays are in order.

Switching high side in a car is normal, then using a common ground. (chassis) At least that is how I did my custom installs back in the day.

 

I watched the video link and I still do not have a clue about the switching. Then it is not clear to me if one side of the switch is connected to the vehicle battery negative, of the called "ground." Now I also need to know the voltage across the switch when the controlled device is OFF. The reason is that it will also be applied to the sound module control input if it is connected directly, and that could be a big problem. That is why I do not suggest a direct connection.

 

What happens if one switch input is held low? does it still respond to any other inputs?
This is a critical piece of information, you might need to create a pulse forming circuit to the switch to prevent one switch from locking-out the whole thing?

 

Good point.

 

Thank you guys for the input. My knowledge and term understanding is very very basic so i'm going to try to reach out for someone who lives here that I know. If I find a solution i'll put it up here offcourse...

 

What happens if one switch input is held low? does it still respond to any other inputs?
This is a critical piece of information, you might need to create a pulse forming circuit to the switch to prevent one switch from locking-out the whole thing?

What do you mean with 'held low'? I even don't know this term..you mean like when the switch is off?

 

I watched the video link and I still do not have a clue about the switching. Then it is not clear to me if one side of the switch is connected to the vehicle battery negative, of the called "ground." Now I also need to know the voltage across the switch when the controlled device is OFF. The reason is that it will also be applied to the sound module control input if it is connected directly, and that could be a big problem. That is why I do not suggest a direct connection.

in this test video it's all connected to the little testbattery. The switches in the car use a dedicated + line and ground line straight from the carbattery.. But i'm going to let it check by a guy, because this is with my knowledge way over the head...

 

What do you mean with 'held low'? I even don't know this term..you mean like when the switch is off?

What he means is...when any one switch is held to ground, will the others still play a file, when they are connected to ground.

High = Positive
Low = Negative

 

What he means is...when any one switch is held to ground, will the others still play a file, when they are connected to ground.

High = Positive
Low = Negative

What he means is...when any one switch is held to ground, will the others still play a file, when they are connected to ground.

High = Positive
Low = Negative

Yes, it will.