timed power cut off relay. help

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
Those look correct to me. All we are doing is cascading two timers each configured as a 555 One Shot so the first timer is triggered, creates a time delay and then the second timer is triggered. 555 timer Mono stable (one shot) circuit gives a good example of what we are doing. A single momentary button press starts the process going in this case. Timing is controlled by the values of the timing resistor / Capacitor (RC Network) on pins 6&7 joined.

Ron
... OK
But it doesn't seem to do what I want it to do as per OP
Do you think the circuits.io isn't running it right?
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
Try and define exactly, in detail, what you would like a circuit to do. This was the original post:
Ok, we have a 110 bell at work with a button to ring it on the front counter. As long as you are pushing it, it rings loud. As you can imagine some people think it's fun to piss you of and keep ringing it. I want to make it where you can only ring it for a moment then have to wait roughly 2 minutes until it will let you ring it again.

I'm thinking a momentary push button for the first burst then a timed relay of some sort. Can someone help me out please?
What in detail is your situation?

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
Try and define exactly, in detail, what you would like a circuit to do. This was the original post:


What in detail is your situation?

Ron
Hello Ron, the OP is exactly my 'issue'

May I rephrase it ... if I can

Push button at front door - Normally open, simple spring loaded button
Door chime in hallway
Press button ... DING
Release button ... DONG
Hold button in ... DING , no DONG
(If the button gets stuck ... the battery depletes or the PSU burns out the solenoid)

I would like a circuit that
1) Press button ... DING/DONG
2) Timer starts for T seconds (e.g. T=5)
3) If the button is pressed while the timer is running, nothing happens except the timer starts again. Each time the button is pressed, the timer restarts. Therefore if the timer is running, the DING/DONG will not work
4) When the timer has stopped and the button is pressed ... DING/DONG
5) If the button is held down or is stuck, nothing happens except the timer keeps running until the button is released and then will only work when T seconds have passed

The parts I have are:
Resistors ... plenty
Capacitors ... plenty
Breadboard
Jumper wires
Diodes ... none but I can source
555 timers ... plenty
LED's ... plenty
12V Delay Timer Switch Adjustable Module 0 to 10 Second NE55 ... Amazon code B00ZOEJUC
Push button ... few
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
OK, then all you need is a simple One Shot so when button is pressed would be like when you get the Ding and the button press starts the output of a 555 which goes high (ding) and when the pulse times out the output goes low (dong). Any button pushes between Ding and Dong would be ignored. Now One Shot Multivibrators come in two flavors, retriggerable and non-retriggerable.

1. In a retriggerable MMV a new trigger during a pulse will restart the pulse time, and thus extend the current pulse.
If the pulse time is 10 s and you would retrigger 6 s after the first trigger you would get a 16 s pulse.
2. In a non-retriggerable MMV the second trigger will be ignored and you'll get a 10 s pulse.

This link shows the wave forms and T=Trigger and Q=Output

So if you use a non-retriggerable MV with a 10 second pulse you get a Ding and ten seconds later a Dong. Something to keep in mind with the 555 timer is it has its limits as to time. Also you need to know the current draw of the door bell solenoid as there is a good possibility the 555 will drive a transistor which will drive the solenoid.

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
OK, then all you need is a simple One Shot so when button is pressed would be like when you get the Ding and the button press starts the output of a 555 which goes high (ding) and when the pulse times out the output goes low (dong). Any button pushes between Ding and Dong would be ignored. Now One Shot Multivibrators come in two flavors, retriggerable and non-retriggerable.

1. In a retriggerable MMV a new trigger during a pulse will restart the pulse time, and thus extend the current pulse.
If the pulse time is 10 s and you would retrigger 6 s after the first trigger you would get a 16 s pulse.
2. In a non-retriggerable MMV the second trigger will be ignored and you'll get a 10 s pulse.

This link shows the wave forms and T=Trigger and Q=Output

So if you use a non-retriggerable MV with a 10 second pulse you get a Ding and ten seconds later a Dong. Something to keep in mind with the 555 timer is it has its limits as to time. Also you need to know the current draw of the door bell solenoid as there is a good possibility the 555 will drive a transistor which will drive the solenoid.

Ron
Hello Ron,
Still confused
I created this circuit ... 555 Timer Retriggerable & Monostable Circuit - with meters
Attached image
The delay starts from the beginning after every press but ... it is live straight away and stays live with each button press
Arghhh
 

Attachments

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
The delay starts from the beginning after every press but ... it is live straight away and stays live with each button press
What happens is with a retrigger version if someone pushes your doorbell and you have a ten second pulse You get a Ding and ten seconds later you get a Dong. But if that person waits say 5 seconds and pushes the button again the Dong is still ten seconds away as the timing process starts again. There will not be another Ding. A non retriggerable will ignore any further button pushes till it times out so one push would Ding and ten seconds later it would Dong regardless of what the person pushing the button is doing.

Make sense?

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
What happens is with a retrigger version if someone pushes your doorbell and you have a ten second pulse You get a Ding and ten seconds later you get a Dong. But if that person waits say 5 seconds and pushes the button again the Dong is still ten seconds away as the timing process starts again. There will not be another Ding. A non retriggerable will ignore any further button pushes till it times out so one push would Ding and ten seconds later it would Dong regardless of what the person pushing the button is doing.

Make sense?

Ron
Hello ... makes sense ... i think so
this issue is that after the DING, it is high ... therefore if the button is stuck the solenoid will burn out
Am i right?
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
Or another way of putting it ...
Press button, goes high for 1 second then goes low (0v), timer starts 10 seconds, it will only go high again after the timer has stopped and only if the button is pressed
Am I attempting the impossible ... hahaha
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
No, not impossible. Let me think about it. Sort of partied a little today and right now a little slow. :)

Ron
We've all been there!
If you have the time or the inclination ... go to circuits.io and create the circuit?
I could then just copy it :)
Thanks for you persistence!
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
If a concern is the door bell button getting stuck and as a result toasting the coil you could just use a simple one shot with about a one second duration. Pressing the bell would result in a Ding / Dong. What this would do is even with a stuck button prevent a toasted coil.

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
If a concern is the door bell button getting stuck and as a result toasting the coil you could just use a simple one shot with about a one second duration. Pressing the bell would result in a Ding / Dong. What this would do is even with a stuck button prevent a toasted coil.

Ron
Hello,
Can you look at this circuit - attached
Pressing the button keeps the light on - thus coil burnout
What would need to be changed?
Thanks
 

Attachments

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
Reading those sort of things is difficult for me as I always worked from schematics. Here is an example of a 555 One Shot. The Output is pin 3 and pins 6&7 are joined together at the center of the RC Network. The button (door bell) is simulated as a brief 0.1 second push and the output goes high for one second Ding (one second) Dong.
555 One Shot Door Bell.png

This what you have in mind? R2 and C2 are the timing for the one second out.

I do not see pins 6&7 tied in your drawing? Maybe that is just me. :)

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
Reading those sort of things is difficult for me as I always worked from schematics. Here is an example of a 555 One Shot. The Output is pin 3 and pins 6&7 are joined together at the center of the RC Network. The button (door bell) is simulated as a brief 0.1 second push and the output goes high for one second Ding (one second) Dong.
View attachment 127944

This what you have in mind? R2 and C2 are the timing for the one second out.

I do not see pins 6&7 tied in your drawing? Maybe that is just me. :)

Ron
Hello Ron
On my drawing 6 & 7 are joined via the horizontal blue tie lines
The vertical holes are inline to each other
Looking at your drawing ... what is V1 & V2 12?
 

Reloadron

Joined Jan 15, 2015
7,891
Sorry about that. V2 is just 12 volt power and only because I made it 12 as it could have been 9 or 6 so merely a power supply. V1 is being used to open and close my trigger switch. When using simulation software for a schematic you need a method to turn the switch On and Off. Generally I place it in a dotted line box and identify it but I didn't, my bad. R3 is just a 10K pull up resistor holding the trigger pin at a logic high until the MySwitch pulls the trigger low for about 0.1 second which starts the one second output on pin 3. R2 and C2 are the RC timing network and I did omit a small 0.1 uF decoupling cap at the power pin of the 555. I also show several repetitions of the bell being pressed.

Ron
 

GUlNNESS

Joined Apr 17, 2017
34
Sorry about that. V2 is just 12 volt power and only because I made it 12 as it could have been 9 or 6 so merely a power supply. V1 is being used to open and close my trigger switch. When using simulation software for a schematic you need a method to turn the switch On and Off. Generally I place it in a dotted line box and identify it but I didn't, my bad. R3 is just a 10K pull up resistor holding the trigger pin at a logic high until the MySwitch pulls the trigger low for about 0.1 second which starts the one second output on pin 3. R2 and C2 are the RC timing network and I did omit a small 0.1 uF decoupling cap at the power pin of the 555. I also show several repetitions of the bell being pressed.

Ron
Hello Ron
Sorry for the late reply
~Been taking too much time with this, therefore it is on the back boiler
Just to let you know it is still "live" but i will reply properly when i have time
Life DOES get in the way of fun!
Speak soon
Mark
 
Top