Hello, folks. I recently updated all kitchen outlets and two three way switches for a customer. Everything worked fine for three days and then they heard loud ticking noises coming from the circuit breaker in question. The breaker wouldn't trip, but sounded like it was "trying to". Sometimes it would be a loud spark type of TICK, or sometimes it would be a series of tick-tick-tick. They turned the breaker off to stop the TICK or ticking. Then on again and it would starting ticking (or one loud TICK) after about two minutes.

So...I went back yesterday and checked all my wiring on the outlets and everything seemed to be tight and proper.

I exchanged the hot wire from the circuit in question to another breaker and it ticked really loud after two minutes. So it's the line and not the breaker. But I changed the breaker anyway as it was the last of the old ones on the panel (others were already replaced through the years).

Now, here's what I suspect: I had replaced two, three-way hallway light switches (one LED recessed light). When I arrived and was diagnosing yesterday, I noticed they were not working as they should. Turn on Switch A, light turns on. Turn off Switch B, turns off light. Go back to Switch A to turn on and nothing. Go back to Switch B, and I can turn on and off. I checked for line/common wiring at Switch A and of course it was proper. Switch A is the one with the voltage source, BTW.

As I was checking voltage presence at Switch A with a non-contact tester, I hit on a ground wire that beeped for full voltage. I did this a few times and each time it beeped. This was done with the switch only partially out.

Eventually, I pulled the switch out of the box, rechecked (load and runner wires) and everything was proper. I tested the ground again and no beeping. It didn't appear the ground was touching the hot but maybe when I installed it initially it touched it or was really close to it?

Could this be the cause of the problem?

I taped the sides and backs of both switches (not done before) and put them back. I turned on the breakers and no TICK or ticking at all for 20 mins. I tested this three times at 20-25 mins each time and no tripping or TICK. I tested both Switch A and B and now both are totally working three-way style.

One last thing I forgot to mention. I checked all neutrals at the panel and everyone was tight except one: the main thicker neutral coming from MAIN to the bus bar was making contact but loose! Wow. Could this have caused the TICK or ticking? If it did, it's so odd that it would only affect one circuit (although it could be if that one old breaker was weak and on the blitz).

Any helpful insights would be great. The customer will of course update me and I will wait and see for a week or more before I call this a success. But if it doesn't anything else I should look for?

 

I would remove all load, such as lamps and anything plugged into relevant outlets and see if you still get the ticking, indicating maybe a earth leakage.
Presumably the outlets and lights are on different circuits.
Also if you have a clamp on meter, use this to detect any current at the breaker.
Max.

 

Thanks, Max.

Yes, I removed all loads off circuits as the first thing, as the customer also did. TICK or ticking still continued without any loads... Yep, lights were on different circuits.

 

Damn Gremlins
I had a plug that kept throwing the breaker at my sink, So I replaced it and it still kept throwing the breaker. Turned out there was a light in the hallway around the corner that was the problem. I guess it was the way they had it wired ??? Replaced the light socket and everything went back to normal. So check everything on that circuit.
Brzrkr

 

Max: I edited my response. The lights are verified to be on a different circuit.

 

The LED load might be unusual so it might cause the ticking.

At one time, I wasn;t happy that the outlet screws could touch the side of the box. The old box didn't met specs. The MFR of the switch would not buy it that it's the switches fault. The screws should not touch the sides with single 12 AWG wire. I don;t think it should rely on the slotted mounting holes for left-right excursions within a box.

 

Berz: I doubt it's the light. It was installed over a year ago by someone else without problems. I myself worked on the switches and outlets a couple weeks ago, so I would think it was something I did wrong...

...anyone have thoughts on the ground wire at switch A being to close to hot to arc or touching being the cause?? But weird how the other circuit ticked (although I think they were on the same double breaker (not single pole though).

 

What is the reason for the double breaker?
Is this a 240v circuit?
Max.

 

... something that may be of interest, if not directly related:
In two separate older houses, the last few feet of wire that connect to the central kitchen ceiling light have shown considerable, excessive wear and aging. This would be due to constant and preferential use over a period of 50 years or so, and consequently warranted replacing with new wire from the junction box to the light fixture.