Thank you Les. Shipping was outrageous though, more than the cap! I found this one online, does it look the same to you? I had trouble copying the page, sorry. !https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitor-jj-electronics-500v-5050-f-electrolytic

 

Thank you Les. Shipping was outrageous though, more than the cap! I found this one online, does it look the same to you? I had trouble copying the page, sorry. !https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitor-jj-electronics-500v-5050-f-electrolytic

Yes that would work, ..

 

Oops, never mind

 

Did you check with a reputable supplier, like Digikey or Newark? I do not know what part of the world you are in, but often local suppliers are less expensive. At least in my part of the USA.

 

No, I did not. I am new to this hobby and don’t know any reputable dealers. Is that one I found known to be bad? I live in eastern Washington and will check out the two dealers you suggested. Thanks

 

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tubedepot/CP-JJ-50X2-500V/10489044
Digikey US,


Also you need to replace the bridge rectifier..!!


https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/solid-state-inc/KBPC3510W/14546390

 

It looks like the capacitor that the TS found in post #21 is from the same manufacturer as the one that Digikey sell.

Les.

 

Ok, I will order the capacitor and rectifier. I would also like to replace the two capacitors located by the fuse and rectifier. I noticed that in the video link that Dodgydave sent me of another Operette 6 radio, these two capacitors are not present. I’m not sure if they were installed after manufacture in an attempt to fix a problem or they are original. My local radio shack (we are lacking electronic stores in eastern Washington) said that they don’t carry anything like that and that I would have to connect a series of components together to replace this cap. I attempted to find a replacement but am having some problems. what do you guys think, are these caps original, replaceable, reproducible?
Thank you again for all your help!

 

Ok, I will order the capacitor and rectifier. I would also like to replace the two capacitors located by the fuse and rectifier. I noticed that in the video link that Dodgydave sent me of another Operette 6 radio, these two capacitors are not present. I’m not sure if they were installed after manufacture in an attempt to fix a problem or they are original. My local radio shack (we are lacking electronic stores in eastern Washington) said that they don’t carry anything like that and that I would have to connect a series of components together to replace this cap. I attempted to find a replacement but am having some problems. what do you guys think, are these caps original, replaceable, reproducible?
Thank you again for all your help!View attachment 281992

The two paper capacitors where are they on the circuit diagram, ?as digikey sell 0.1uF @ 275VAC /500DC..

 

I have no idea where they are on the circuit diagram. I am just a hobbiest who decided to take on this project because it looked interesting and was a way for me to learn something new. I cannot read a diagram very well on a good day, and this one being in German makes it especially difficult. I have been hoping to just find replacement parts and solder them in. Dodgydave, the cap that you have found is 275VAC/500 DC, will adequatelyreplace a 1000/500V cap?

 

It is not at al likely that there will be 500 volts DC in that radio .
Locating what part of the circuits a given component connects to can be done by following the wire from a component until it connects to something that is identified on the schematic drawing. Electronics skill not mandatory for that. Then follow the other wire from the component until IT connects to something identified on the drawing. Tedious but not hard.

 

Thank you MisterBill2, this should keep me busy for a while. We have family coming for the weekend so I will have to wait until Monday to get started.

 

Thank you MisterBill2, this should keep me busy for a while. We have family coming for the weekend so I will have to wait until Monday to get started.

One thing that I forgot to mention is to be certain that the radio is unplugged before starting to trace out the circuit. But of course you knew that. I am just obligated to remind you of it.

 

Thank you MisterBill2, this should keep me busy for a while. We have family coming for the weekend so I will have to wait until Monday to get started.

Yes, to trace the capacitors out on the diagram switch off the mains supply first, use a multimeter on ohms or diode test beep, and test if they go to ground and follow the wires to see where they connect to .

 

OK, I have been able to do some super sleuthing and found out a little bit about what I have going on with those two 500V caps. I think that they are running parallel to the on/off switch from the power source. I traced power coming into the radio at the power cord connection. It goes from there to the fuse, this is where it goes parallel. A 500V cap was soldered onto the other end of the fuse connection and then goes to what I think is a screw grounded to the chassis. The others 500V cap also is connected there and then is soldered to the off/on switch.
Now, going back to the fuse, the other part of the parallel line first goes to what I believe is the transformer 6.3V/2.95A and then to the off/on switch.
Looking at the schematic, I am not sure where all of this is located. I see the rectifier on the bottom of the page and I am guessing that the symbol to the left of it is the transformer. To the lower left of the transformer may be the fuse but I am not sure about that. I cannot find those two 500V caps anywhere on the diagram. The vid that DodgyDave sent me of the guy fixing the same model radio that I am working on did not have those caps on it, this lends me to believe that they were later added by somebody, but why?
what would be the purpose of those two caps?
Should I just remove them?
The first pick shows the caps as I found them, later photos show after I removed one of the caps. The second is of what I think is the transformer with the white coming from the fuse and the blue going to the switch. The third shows where the first cap was along with its connection to the fuse and white wire. The forth shows the grounding screw with both caps soldered to it. The last pic shows the switch with the cap and blue wire soldered to it.
Thanks again!(

 

Some folks believe that tying both sides of the mains connection to the chassis is a good idea, I AM NOT ONE OF THOSE FOLKS.
I have not seen a satisfactory explanation of what the benefit would be, Si I suggest removing them, they are not required for operation of the radio.

 

I agree with MisterBill2. I suspect they may have been fitted as an attempt to filter mains born interference or to provide earthing at RF frequencies for AM reception when an external antenna was used for AM. This would only apply if the radio was used with only a two pin plug. In this situation. It would have the negative effect of making the chassis live if they failed short circuit. If they are connected in parallel (As your description suggests. It would be clearer if you drew a schematic of how they were connected) they would still make the chassis live to some extent as there combined reactance at mains frequency would only be about 15 K ohms. This could allow a current of about 8 mA to flow from the chassis to earth. In this case you would get an electric shock (Although probably not lethal.) If you touched the chassis (Or anything connected to it.) and earth.

Les.

 

The description of the connections, as I understood it, was that the two caps were connecting both ides of the mains feed to the chassis.

 

That would make more sense as that is the normal configuration for a mains filter. I had assumed that the switch and fuse were on the same leg but after looking at the schematic one is in each leg. I still agree with removing them. If he has problems with mains born interference replace them. If he does he should use X rated capacitors.

Les.

 

The radio has a two pin plug, I am thinking about converting it to a grounded plug. If I do, should I ground it to the chassis?