I often have problems hand soldering SMD parts, specifically getting the position right and not moving while soldering.
Could I use a tiny dot of superglue to secure the part in place prior to soldering?

 

What kind of SMD parts, are we talking resistors or 44-pin TQFPs?

 

For resistors, etc., I put down a tiny bit of solder on one pad before placing the component. I never have to use glue.

If you must, I would be inclined to try a tiny dot of contact cement.

 

Yes, that us the way I do it. Solder on one pad.

You absolutely need a good pair of tweezers.

 

Yes, that us the way I do it. Solder on one pad.

You absolutely need a good pair of tweezers.

Tweezers have a habit of pinging the components into space. I've got some reverse tweezers coming to try out.

 

What kind of SMD parts, are we talking resistors or 44-pin TQFPs?

1206 resistors, capacitors, SOT23, SOIC ICs mostly

 

Tweezers have a habit of pinging the components into space. I've got some reverse tweezers coming to try out.

Don't buy cheap ones. A little TACKY SOLDER FLUX keeps things in place.
https://hakkousa.com/chp-105-sa-flat-tip-tweezers.html

 

Tweezers have a habit of pinging the components into space. I've got some reverse tweezers coming to try out.

You want a good set of tweezers. Also, people tend to squeeze with much more force then they need to -- the fact that they are flinging off into space is a strong indicator that too much force was being used. Just squeeze as much as is needed to hold the component, no more -- there should be almost no elastic energy stored in the tweezer arms that can be turned into kinetic energy of a flying component.

 

1206 resistors, capacitors, SOT23, SOIC ICs mostly

These small components lend themselves to putting a tiny amount of solder on one pad and then heating that pad while positioning the part in place with the tweezers. That one soldered leg will hold it nicely. It even works very nicely with things like large quad flat packs by tacking down one pin near a corner and then a pin on the other corner.

 

These small components lend themselves to putting a tiny amount of solder on one pad and then heating that pad while positioning the part in place with the tweezers. That one soldered leg will hold it nicely. It even works very nicely with things like large quad flat packs by tacking down one pin near a corner and then a pin on the other corner.

Yes, that is the technique that (I try to) use.
I hope the reverse tweezers will help.

 

Yes, that is the technique that (I try to) use.
I hope the reverse tweezers will help.

IMO you should practice with good regular squeeze SMD tweezers because you do need learn the feel of holding the parts while moving the parts to be proficient at SMD part soldering. Good tweezers allow you to modulate the holding force predictably so there is little need to over-clamp (and send it flying) a part from fear of dropping or tenting while soldering.

My reverse tweezers in the kit never get used.

 

Don't use superglue - it stinks.
Get a good hot-air rework station. Tin the pads, heat the area with the hot air, hold the part in place with tweezers and release it when the solder wets it.
Don't hand-solder MLCC capacitors I have had far too many fail after hand-soldering. After a small amount of time they stop being capacitors and suddenly decide to be resistors of about 30Ω shorting out the power supply.

 

If you need to hand solder MLCC caps (I make a lot of hand soldered prototype boards), don't touch the device with the soldering iron (with the correct tip and at the correct temp) , preheat the pad with solder between the device and iron. Let if flow to the device as the device heats.

https://article.murata.com/en-global/article/strain-crack-mechanism-and-preventive-measures-for-mlcc

 

usually in case of leadless packages we can use some glue below the component to fix, but most of them have ground pad beneath. Moreover my soldering approach with the SMT packages having small leads, is to solder one pin first then adjust and position the component then solder and fix it properly. You can also go with SMT stencil services.

 

No clean tacky flux from a company like Kester, Chipquick, or MG Chemicals is kind of glue for your components. It is designed to retain the position of the parts for hand or hot air soldering and is safe for the components and PCB.

It is “no clean” because it could be left in place—but you will probably want to clean it. You can get water soluble versions but IPA (Isopropanol, not beer) will work well.

Tacky flux is really quite a useful thing, try it.

 

A bit on the leads and a drop of the bottom of the SMD device.

Tilt

Tilted.

 

I have ordered the MG version so there will be some experiments shortly.