First off, I just want to thank everyone on here for the great info and help! Thanks to the assistance provided by everyone here my fridge is back up and cool, so I just wanted to toss in the details of my fridge/fix in case it's helpful.

My fridge is a Haier 18-bottle dual zone unit (bought off Amazon back in 2016). Replacing the caps did the trick in bringing it back to life. The below table shows the Mouser part numbers for each cap used and the attached image shows the referenced Locations.

Location	Capacitance (uF)	Mouser Part Number
C4	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407
C7	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407
C8	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H
C5	22	647-UVK1H220MDD
C12	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3
C15	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3
C9	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G
C14	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G
C13	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G
C10	2200	667-EEU-FS1C222LB
CA1	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H
CB	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407
C202	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407
C206	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H
CA2	22	647-UVK1H220MDD
CA4	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G
C201	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H

 

First off, I just want to thank everyone on here for the great info and help! Thanks to the assistance provided by everyone here my fridge is back up and cool, so I just wanted to toss in the details of my fridge/fix in case it's helpful.

My fridge is a Haier 18-bottle dual zone unit (bought off Amazon back in 2016). Replacing the caps did the trick in bringing it back to life. The below table shows the Mouser part numbers for each cap used and the attached image shows the referenced Locations.

Thanks for providing this info. Can you please add a third column showing the voltage rating of each capacitor?
As with the wattage rating of a resistor, the voltage rating of a capacitor is the next important parameter besides its nominal value.

 

Thanks for providing this info. Can you please add a third column showing the voltage rating of each capacitor?
As with the wattage rating of a resistor, the voltage rating of a capacitor is the next important parameter besides its nominal value.

I'll add that a few of the caps, I forget which but I think I posted it early in this thread, will not be generic and will be "low ESR" types. You certainly want to replace them comparably-rated caps.

 

Thanks for providing this info. Can you please add a third column showing the voltage rating of each capacitor?
As with the wattage rating of a resistor, the voltage rating of a capacitor is the next important parameter besides its nominal value.

Hi,

Sure, no problem.

I've added the rated voltages to the table (below). I didn't include these (or other component specs) originally because, to be honest, I don't actually have a good reason for them to be a 'requirement'. I based my selections on some level of consensus of the previous posters along with any info I could find on the existing components in my boards (which was pretty sparse).

Location	Capacitance (uF)	Mouser Part Number	Rated Voltage (VDC)
C4	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C7	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C8	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
C5	22	647-UVK1H220MDD	50
C12	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3	200
C15	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3	200
C9	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C14	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C13	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C10	2200	667-EEU-FS1C222LB	16
CA1	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
CB	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C202	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C206	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
CA2	22	647-UVK1H220MDD	50
CA4	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C201	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25

 

Hi,

Sure, no problem.

I've added the rated voltages to the table (below). I didn't include these (or other component specs) originally because, to be honest, I don't actually have a good reason for them to be a 'requirement'. I based my selections on some level of consensus of the previous posters along with any info I could find on the existing components in my boards (which was pretty sparse).

Location	Capacitance (uF)	Mouser Part Number	Rated Voltage (VDC)
C4	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C7	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C8	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
C5	22	647-UVK1H220MDD	50
C12	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3	200
C15	120	661-EKXJ201ELL121MK3	200
C9	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C14	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C13	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C10	2200	667-EEU-FS1C222LB	16
CA1	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
CB	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C202	1	140-SEA1R0M1HBK0407	50
C206	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25
CA2	22	647-UVK1H220MDD	50
CA4	4.7	140-RGA4R7M1HBK0511G	50
C201	47	667-EEU-FR1E470H	25

 

I wanted to thank everyone for their inputs. My wine cooler is up and running!

I first replaced only C8 and that didn't do it, so I went ahead and replaced C5, C7, CA1, C206 & C10... that did it!

 

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread! I fixed a 16 bottle wine enthusiast wine cooler that I almost threw out before finding this thread.

The cooler was not working, though the temp display on the front and buttons seemed to work fine. The common theme I saw in this thread was to replace all the electrolytic caps first before doing any more troubleshooting. After replacing the caps it still wasn't working, then I realized a fuse that was covered by heatshrink was blown. After replacing the fuse it fired right back up!

Wow that sounded like relief. I'm having troubles with my WhisperKOOL wine cellar, seems like the evaporator and condenser doesn't work well, and there is no drain line. Will you show me the caps that you used? Maybe its something that I need.

 

Wow that sounded like relief. I'm having troubles with my WhisperKOOL wine cellar, seems like the evaporator and condenser doesn't work well, and there is no drain line. Will you show me the caps that you used? Maybe its something that I need.

I'll let others chime in, but it seems that your WhisperKOOL cellar has an actual refrigeration system with R134a and all.
The systems discussed here use a peltier and fans as the cooling system.

 

Wow that sounded like relief. I'm having troubles with my WhisperKOOL wine cellar, seems like the evaporator and condenser doesn't work well, and there is no drain line. Will you show me the caps that you used? Maybe its something that I need.

Evaporator and condenser? That sounds like recompression-based refrigeration. You might find help here but you should start your own thread.

In my experience, small refrigeration systems such as dehumidifiers and window A/C units fail due to lost freon. No practical solution for that.

 

So recently found this thread, and thank you for all the work! I have done the cp replacement and DD1. On my board with nothing plunged in other than the line input, it blows the 2.5 A fuse. I have replaced the original fuse with a slow blow. I have gone above my pay grade at this point.... any ideas?

 

So recently found this thread, and thank you for all the work! I have done the cp replacement and DD1. On my board with nothing plunged in other than the line input, it blows the 2.5 A fuse. I have replaced the original fuse with a slow blow. I have gone above my pay grade at this point.... any ideas?

I had a transistor that went bad and had to be replaced. That’s about all l can suggest.

 

I have a similar, but different Cuisinart CWC-1600 "wine celler" that had stopped working a while ago, and wife asked me to see if I could fix.
Took it apart, decided the peltier was bad, so replaced it, and still didn't work right. Found this thread, and found that my board had two 47uf/25v caps. Note in my 1600, power supply and other circuits are combined on one board.
I had a couple of 47uf/35v caps around, so I just replaced those two caps, and my 1600 is working again.
I wrote up how I fixed it, with a bunch of pics in the link below, in case anybody has this model and wants to try to fix it.
Details and pics to fix my 1600

So thanks for this thread, I would not have thought to replace those caps if I didn't find this, I was depressed when changing the peltier didn't fix it.

Last note, I'm guessing that they overstress one of these caps, I didn't measure to see which one was bad. Maybe they put too much ripple current through it, and it eventually dies. My 1600 did last for many years before it stopped cooling.
Now I'm pretty sure I can keep it running for a long time.

 

Need help with my cuisinart CW3200. It has two chillers and 4 fans all hooked to 1 board. All of those run off 1 12vdc rail. The hot side of the PSU board blew one of its small rectifier diodes and the two FJP13007's. Replaced those items and also replaced all the electrolyte caps. The board powers up and there is 12v at the fan/chiller connections as long as there is no load and I don't have the temp control board and NTC hooked up. Plugging in the control board, which includes the PWM signal line, causes power to drop to about 6v. If I plug in the NTC, no change. If I plug in a fan and the temperature setpoint is low enough, the PSU can maintain the 6v and the fan barely runs. Raising the setpoint does "turn off" the power (~0.5vdc). Adding a second fan or hooking up one of the TEC's causes the 12v rail to go drop very low and the PSU starts buzzing. Both TEC's seem OK. I can hook them to 12v battery and they both get cold. The low voltage side of the supply has two(2) stpS2045CT's and those are the only items supplying the 12v rail. They seem ok. The PWM IC is a TL494 part. The board is similar to the schematics referenced earlier in this thread except as noted this board is configured to run 4 fans and two chillers along with a small LED light and the user digital display/temperature control board. The board uses a 3 amp fuse on the main 120v AC input. I checked all the standard diodes but don't know if the zener's are functioning correctly.

Does anyone have suggestions what I can check? What would cause a severe voltage drop on the 12v rail as soon as any kind of load, even a small load like a 0.2Amp fan, is connected? Is it possible the S2045's are not getting right voltage or amperage. Or possibly the TL494 has gone bad or a passive component the TL494 relies on is bad but any help with best place to start is appreciated.

Greg

 

Need help with my cuisinart CW3200. It has two chillers and 4 fans all hooked to 1 board. All of those run off 1 12vdc rail. The hot side of the PSU board blew one of its small rectifier diodes and the two FJP13007's. Replaced those items and also replaced all the electrolyte caps. The board powers up and there is 12v at the fan/chiller connections as long as there is no load and I don't have the temp control board and NTC hooked up. Plugging in the control board, which includes the PWM signal line, causes power to drop to about 6v. If I plug in the NTC, no change. If I plug in a fan and the temperature setpoint is low enough, the PSU can maintain the 6v and the fan barely runs. Raising the setpoint does "turn off" the power (~0.5vdc). Adding a second fan or hooking up one of the TEC's causes the 12v rail to go drop very low and the PSU starts buzzing. Both TEC's seem OK. I can hook them to 12v battery and they both get cold. The low voltage side of the supply has two(2) stpS2045CT's and those are the only items supplying the 12v rail. They seem ok. The PWM IC is a TL494 part. The board is similar to the schematics referenced earlier in this thread except as noted this board is configured to run 4 fans and two chillers along with a small LED light and the user digital display/temperature control board. The board uses a 3 amp fuse on the main 120v AC input. I checked all the standard diodes but don't know if the zener's are functioning correctly.

Does anyone have suggestions what I can check? What would cause a severe voltage drop on the 12v rail as soon as any kind of load, even a small load like a 0.2Amp fan, is connected? Is it possible the S2045's are not getting right voltage or amperage. Or possibly the TL494 has gone bad or a passive component the TL494 relies on is bad but any help with best place to start is appreciated.

Greg

Divide and conquer. I'd be tempted to separate the 12V rail from the power supply, if possible, and see if the things runs off a car battery or another 12V PSU, for instance one from an old computer. Or, you could test the power supply on its own to see if it can light an automotive headlight - if you have one of those around. It sounds to me like your power supply still has problems.

 

First of all, I want to thank all of you who have posted hints in getting an FX-101 board working. Your postings have made it possible for me to get my Whynter wine cooler running again.

The cooler had two of the FX-101 boards, and one of them died. I found this thread while searching for a solution. The most common problem seemed to be the 47 uF capacitor at C8. Since I had one on hand, I tried replacing it. The board came alive again, but still had a problem. The cooling unit connected to this board never completely shut off. So, I ordered a complete set of electrolytic capacitors (actually two sets, in anticipation of the second board failing). I replaced all of the capacitors in the control section of the board, and it now works. Since it is working, I do not plan to replace the capacitors in the power supply section of the board, unless new problems arise.

One note on the board itself. Much earlier in this thread there was a link to a schematic of the board. My boards have a 1 uF capacitor, labeled CB, that is not shown on the schematic. It is located right next to the LM358 IC. Sorry, but I didn't think to see where it was connected in the circuit until I had reinstalled the board.

Again, thanks for the help.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone who has posted here--I recently purchased a Frigidaire wine cooler (FFWC18L2QB) which almost immediately started having the same problems everyone has decribed (runs for a few hours or maybe a day, then stops cooling). It has the same or similar PCB (FX-101B PCB120606F1) as those described in this thread, and simply replacing the C8 capacitor with this one (https://www.digikey.com/product-det...onic-components/EEU-HD1E470/P15141-ND/2796099) worked for me too! I had no real previous experience with soldering or circuits at all, so this can be an easy fix for anyone. It has since been running for a couple of months without problems.

Replacing C8 worked a treat for my unit.
Thank you!

 

Just want to weigh with my experience. I had found one of these boards (FX-101B) on-line and ordered it to replace one of two boards that was bad in a dual zone fridge. By the time it got to me the other board had died the same way. Then I found this thread, and decided to give it a shot and replace all the caps on the two faulty boards. $30 later and an hour or so of soldering and the fridge fires right back up, and both of the boards work fine. So now I have a working fridge, and a spare board. Thanks all for all of your insight.

 

Hi, I have a Koolatron WC12-DZ two zones wine cooler and one of the zone always reaches around 12 degrees Celsius even if the control is set to something else. The problem is related to the bottom FX-101 board because I switched it with the other one and then the other zone was in trouble. Any idea about which component could be replaced to fix this?

Thanks.

 

Another thank you to all that provided the info on bad caps. My FX-102 board is fixed now as well. I ordered all new caps from Jameco and swapped then all out - good as new!

 

Hi, I have a Koolatron WC12-DZ two zones wine cooler and one of the zone always reaches around 12 degrees Celsius even if the control is set to something else. The problem is related to the bottom FX-101 board because I switched it with the other one and then the other zone was in trouble. Any idea about which component could be replaced to fix this?

Thanks.

Look to replace the electrolytic capacitors, particularly C8. Personally, I'd replace them all and hope to avoid placing another order and paying a second freight charge.