Does this fill any holes in the memory?

In fact I made a mess because I had in mind the cutting of (mines) chains with chains or wires.

What you show in the above video was somehow frequent in the River Plate area when a lot of old sunk vessels were recovered for clearing the adjacent areas to facilitate the dredging of channels. Never THAT big.

 

Perhaps but a nice big rare earth magnet inside shop vac. Or, better yet, at the bottom of a cyclonic dust collector.

Dust collector is on the to-do list. Maybe I'll add giant magnet and giant water bong to the project.

 

The idiots forgot to rebalast their tanks after pumping out for the RoRo to offload cars at port. Didn't turn their autobalast system back on. Went to make a turn going out and rolled it over on its side in the sound. Took a few days to cut the engine crew out of the hull but no serious injuries to the crew other than a few broken bones. Can't believe no one noticed they were riding high in the water. I think they are still pulling junk off the bottom from the salvage job. Apparently refloating it was not an option. Was a perfectly good and fairly new vessel. The ECO-Warriors are still screaming bloody hell about the mess.

 

Dust collector is on the to-do list. Maybe I'll add giant magnet and giant water bong to the project.

Would that be because you're in Texas? ... I mean, everything has to be bigger in Texas, right?

 

Very interesting subject!

A few observations as a fellow Youtuber:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe1bjEcBichpiAMhExh0NiQ

As a viewer, I was frustrated by the lack of context to the video, What are you trying to make? How does it work? etc...

Maybe you can do an intro where you discuss the big picture of the project, theory of operation, etc., to frame the project.
Then you can do ENDLESS videos covering the details of the process and improvements etc.

Include the audience in your vision and purpose, then you can develop true followers who are invested in your project.

 

Very interesting subject!

A few observations as a fellow Youtuber:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe1bjEcBichpiAMhExh0NiQ

As a viewer, I was frustrated by the lack of context to the video, What are you trying to make? How does it work? etc...

Maybe you can do an intro where you discuss the big picture of the project, theory of operation, etc., to frame the project.
Then you can do ENDLESS videos covering the details of the process and improvements etc.

Include the audience in your vision and purpose, then you can develop true followers who are invested in your project.

Yes, you are spot on. I myself am frustrated with this. Future subjects will be handled the way you suggested. The reason for the failing on this specific subject (wire saw) is, I had the idea to build this sort of in parallel with the idea to jump back on YouTube. In the beginning I envisioned the saw as sort of a supporting character for the miniature CNC that I will build. So I did record footage of the early stages of the build with intent to give it its own little sidebar episode but it was all recorded on my phone camera and it's actually a bit embarrassing. Then I started to realize the saw deserved its own video series but I was already nearing the end of the build, so I was just going to wait until the end and the first episode of the wire saw subject would be the big unveiling and cutting the forklift, and I would go back and upload the build process retroactively. Then I decided that wouldn't work well, so I just started recording at the point I was at, and the result is like you observed, starting on chapter 18 with no context. I don't know how to recover at this point so I think I will just keep on doing what I'm doing, and make the forklift cutting a bigger deal than these other videos, and from now on new subjects will start out with an intro video as they should.

P.s. subscribed to your channel. I don't know how I never came across it before. It's definitely in line with what comes up in my feed and seems like something I should have been exposed to already.

 

Yes, you are spot on. I myself am frustrated with this. Future subjects will be handled the way you suggested. The reason for the failing on this specific subject (wire saw) is, I had the idea to build this sort of in parallel with the idea to jump back on YouTube. In the beginning I envisioned the saw as sort of a supporting character for the miniature CNC that I will build. So I did record footage of the early stages of the build with intent to give it its own little sidebar episode but it was all recorded on my phone camera and it's actually a bit embarrassing. Then I started to realize the saw deserved its own video series but I was already nearing the end of the build, so I was just going to wait until the end and the first episode of the wire saw subject would be the big unveiling and cutting the forklift, and I would go back and upload the build process retroactively. Then I decided that wouldn't work well, so I just started recording at the point I was at, and the result is like you observed, starting on chapter 18 with no context. I don't know how to recover at this point so I think I will just keep on doing what I'm doing, and make the forklift cutting a bigger deal than these other videos, and from now on new subjects will start out with an intro video as they should.

P.s. subscribed to your channel. I don't know how I never came across it before. It's definitely in line with what comes up in my feed and seems like something I should have been exposed to already.

Thanks for your sub!

This medium is very forgiving!
I would just make another video and title it "Wire Saw Project - Episode 1" or another suggestive title, just build it as the "Front End" of your story.

Start with a nice personal explanation of the whole project and go on from there, an easy save!

 

Thanks for your sub!

This medium is very forgiving!
I would just make another video and title it "Wire Saw Project - Episode 1" or another suggestive title, just build it as the "Front End" of your story.

Start with a nice personal explanation of the whole project and go on from there, an easy save!

Good call. I'll do that. Thanks for the help!

 

Would that be because you're in Texas? ... I mean, everything has to be bigger in Texas, right?

If I were to truly enable Texas mode on this, it would involve bringing home one of the 3-story dust collectors from work

 

Just a thought, but your vibration looks to be minor. And may even be helpful. The slight vibration may keep the cast iron dust from clogging the wire.

When I was doing a lot of drywall and living in the house I used a wet dry vac a lot. I took a piece of PVC pipe and hooked it up to the vac's input, and pointed it toward the vac buckets bottom. Stopped it ~ 3" from the bottom and put water in the bottom buit kept the level of water an inch from the tube end. So the dust hit the water and collected in the water instead of clogging the filter so much.

 

The length of your wire means it won't overheat, depending on the type of cast iron you have, it is likely soft enough and self lubricating (contains graphite). The onl reasons to use fluid is to keep the dust down. As said, the granite that s not converted to iron carbides will really make a mess of your shop and clog air handling filters.

a diy cooling fluid would be a consitrated dish soap solution with some cheap antioxidant (sodium nitrite, sodium metabisulfite). Search uspto.gov patents for some formulations. Everything you are doing is research or copy an aqueous cutting fluid or flood fluid. Anything with an application date more than 20-years old or applications that are not issued are free to use unless they are just improvements of existing issued patents. No matter which mixture you use, I'd doubt anyone will come after you. The reason I say blend your own, the purchased formulations can get spendy and most of the rods t is water.
Use some squeegees edge to edge to wipe it clean so you don't spray fluid all over your shop. Put a trough below, a small aquarium pump should be enough. The solids should sink quickly so an oil filter (can type) submerged just below the surface to draw "clean" fluid out of the thought on the suction side of your pump.

You have to think about the health effects of the dust in your shop (whether you breath it while the saw is on or when you kick up dust walking though the shop or moving a piece of stock over the next 30 years. Iron and iron oxides are pretty well drawn out of your respiratory system but the additives to some cast irons - certain oxidation states of chromium, vanadium of all types dissolve and are toxic, silica/silicates are not easily coughed up and can stay in the lungs, iron carbides have various hazards reported but more documentation is needed.

 

Just a thought, but your vibration looks to be minor. And may even be helpful. The slight vibration may keep the cast iron dust from clogging the wire.

When I was doing a lot of drywall and living in the house I used a wet dry vac a lot. I took a piece of PVC pipe and hooked it up to the vac's input, and pointed it toward the vac buckets bottom. Stopped it ~ 3" from the bottom and put water in the bottom buit kept the level of water an inch from the tube end. So the dust hit the water and collected in the water instead of clogging the filter so much.

Good idea. A near-bong. I'll try that.

 

The length of your wire means it won't overheat, depending on the type of cast iron you have, it is likely soft enough and self lubricating (contains graphite). The onl reasons to use fluid is to keep the dust down. As said, the granite that s not converted to iron carbides will really make a mess of your shop and clog air handling filters.

a diy cooling fluid would be a consitrated dish soap solution with some cheap antioxidant (sodium nitrite, sodium metabisulfite). Search uspto.gov patents for some formulations. Everything you are doing is research or copy an aqueous cutting fluid or flood fluid. Anything with an application date more than 20-years old or applications that are not issued are free to use unless they are just improvements of existing issued patents. No matter which mixture you use, I'd doubt anyone will come after you. The reason I say blend your own, the purchased formulations can get spendy and most of the rods t is water.
Use some squeegees edge to edge to wipe it clean so you don't spray fluid all over your shop. Put a trough below, a small aquarium pump should be enough. The solids should sink quickly so an oil filter (can type) submerged just below the surface to draw "clean" fluid out of the thought on the suction side of your pump.

You have to think about the health effects of the dust in your shop (whether you breath it while the saw is on or when you kick up dust walking though the shop or moving a piece of stock over the next 30 years. Iron and iron oxides are pretty well drawn out of your respiratory system but the additives to some cast irons - certain oxidation states of chromium, vanadium of all types dissolve and are toxic, silica/silicates are not easily coughed up and can stay in the lungs, iron carbides have various hazards reported but more documentation is needed.

I never considered rolling my own cutting fluid/coolant. I purchased a mist coolant system (incl. Fluid) for my CNC mill, but haven't used it yet. I'll add this to the list of things to try: compare commercial coolant solution to DIY, for both mist and flood, and on both wire saw and mill. Thank you for the suggestion!

 

Having machined more cast iron than I ever wanted to, cast iron is better machined dry. Dust is just a given when machining it. Back in the day when taking a bath after work, there would be a rusty brown film on the tub bottom as the water drained out.

And not meaning to shoot your idea of free cast iron stock down, don't be surprised if the towmotor weight isn't too good a material. The only good cast iron I ever salvaged was small pieces from old engine blocks. The big things like that weight aren't cast with tall risers to keep the casting from having porosity in them.

 

Thanks for your sub!

This medium is very forgiving!
I would just make another video and title it "Wire Saw Project - Episode 1" or another suggestive title, just build it as the "Front End" of your story.

Start with a nice personal explanation of the whole project and go on from there, an easy save!

Ask and you shall receive:

 

Having machined more cast iron than I ever wanted to, cast iron is better machined dry. Dust is just a given when machining it. Back in the day when taking a bath after work, there would be a rusty brown film on the tub bottom as the water drained out.

Having also machined a bit of cast iron in the past, I can say this is different than what I've seen. The cast iron "dust" im used to is like, I don't know, sand? Like getting blasted in the face with hot sand when you stand in front of the machine. I'd call it "dust" in any other conversation, but it's not really; it has some substance to it. It falls to the ground. This stuff coming out of this wire saw cut is literal dust. Gets suspended in the air and leaves a haze. Maybe I just haven't machined enough cast iron to have seen the same thing on a mill or lathe, but given what I little I have experienced, this is a different thing.

And not meaning to shoot your idea of free cast iron stock down, don't be surprised if the towmotor weight isn't too good a material. The only good cast iron I ever salvaged was small pieces from old engine blocks. The big things like that weight aren't cast with tall risers to keep the casting from having porosity in them.

Thanks for the forewarning. I am aware and prepared for the possibility of it being porous. I have tried harvesting cast iron from multiple sources and/or done research on many potential sources of cast iron, and found enough examples of unsuitable sources to be wary. What I didn't find though (oddly enough) is anyone having ever sliced up a forklift counterweight, who could attest to being a good source or not. Someone has to go first; I guess that's me.

 

This stuff coming out of this wire saw cut is literal dust. Gets suspended in the air and leaves a haze. Maybe I just haven't machined enough cast iron to have seen the same thing on a mill or lathe, but given what I little I have experienced, this is a different thing.

Because your cutting edge is not big enough to create chips or turnings. The diamond saw uses micron-scale diamonds bonded to a thin wire. You're not going to make chips or turnings bigger than the cross section area of the diamonds that are "filing" or "grinding" or "abrading" (plowing) their way through the stock. The hazy for these cuts vs no haze for other cuts means you are likely doing some chemistry and making a lower density oxide (rust). Each metal has a critical size (or surface area to volume ratio) for a the oxygen concentration and atmospheric pressure (typically 1 atm at 21% oxygen). Iron under 20 microns easily oxidizes to iron oxide if it is freshly cut surfaces and allowed to fall through the air (insulated by air) where it cannot pass its heat to another surface. Iron pops like popcorn to make a porous glob that doesn't always stay together - the 25 to 30 micron agglomeration of iron oxide can just turn to "smoke" that hangers in the air for 10s of seconds or longer. Very fine iron oxide (sub micrometer) can be clear/white (colorless) and depending on oxidation level (mix of iron 2+ and iron 3+ ions can be "magnetite" black or gray colors - particle size and oxidation state will determine color so you can't just say, it is still black/gray so it hasn't oxidized to red colors.

 

Because your cutting edge is not big enough to create chips or turnings. The diamond saw uses micron-scale diamonds bonded to a thin wire. You're not going to make chips or turnings bigger than the cross section area of the diamonds that are "filing" or "grinding" or "abrading" (plowing) their way through the stock.

^ You started out at 2nd grade level and I was with you. I was like "yeah man, obviously; don't you realize I'm a 6th grader?"
Then you jumped straight into university chemistry and I wasn't able to follow:

The hazy for these cuts vs no haze for other cuts means you are likely doing some chemistry and making a lower density oxide (rust). Each metal has a critical size (or surface area to volume ratio) for a the oxygen concentration and atmospheric pressure (typically 1 atm at 21% oxygen). Iron under 20 microns easily oxidizes to iron oxide if it is freshly cut surfaces and allowed to fall through the air (insulated by air) where it cannot pass its heat to another surface. Iron pops like popcorn to make a porous glob that doesn't always stay together - the 25 to 30 micron agglomeration of iron oxide can just turn to "smoke" that hangers in the air for 10s of seconds or longer. Very fine iron oxide (sub micrometer) can be clear/white (colorless) and depending on oxidation level (mix of iron 2+ and iron 3+ ions can be "magnetite" black or gray colors - particle size and oxidation state will determine color so you can't just say, it is still black/gray so it hasn't oxidized to red colors.

While I don't really know what you're talking about, I feel like this is relevant:

I've never seen anything like that. The dust was burning like a Lichtenberg figure rendered in slow burning black powder. If that's not relevant, then at least you can see the color of the dust plume wafting straight upward toward the end. It looks like smoke but it isn't. Well, I'm almost certain it isn't. If you disagree I'd be interested in hearing your argument.

 

That is exactly what I tried to say. Newly exposed metal surfaces oxidize quickly. Normally, the reaction of that surface oxidation generates some heat and that heat is dissipated by the bulk of the metal and the thickness of that oxidation is a few hundred nano-meters thick in the the first seconds after the cut.
The smaller a metal particle gets, the higher it's surface area to volume ratio is.
At some point, the surface area to volume gets so high that the heat that dissipates into the particle when the surface oxidizes can turn the particle red hot.

When the micron-scale particle is red hot (molten), the cast iron rusts (oxidizes) all the way through the particle.
since iron oxide is much less dense and has a higher melting point than iron, the particle grows in size like popcorn popping. And that popped piece of metal quickly blows apart into nano particles that are so small they can hang in air like smoke for a long time. Smoke is just a bunch of particles that are so small that air currents can keep them suspended in a way that seems to defy gravity.

I also wanted to assure you that, even though the color of the dust is not the traditional red rust of iron oxide that you'd see on an old car, it is still oxidized iron.
In the end, I was trying to say, your dust doesn't seen like any cast iron turnings because they are so fine and oxidizing as they leave the saw wire

 

That is exactly what I tried to say. Newly exposed metal surfaces oxidize quickly. Normally, the reaction of that surface oxidation generates some heat and that heat is dissipated by the bulk of the metal and the thickness of that oxidation is a few hundred nano-meters thick in the the first seconds after the cut.
The smaller a metal particle gets, the higher it's surface area to volume ratio is.
At some point, the surface area to volume gets so high that the heat that dissipates into the particle when the surface oxidizes can turn the particle red hot.

When the micron-scale particle is red hot (molten), the cast iron rusts (oxidizes) all the way through the particle.
since iron oxide is much less dense and has a higher melting point than iron, the particle grows in size like popcorn popping. And that popped piece of metal quickly blows apart into nano particles that are so small they can hang in air like smoke for a long time. Smoke is just a bunch of particles that are so small that air currents can keep them suspended in a way that seems to defy gravity.

I also wanted to assure you that, even though the color of the dust is not the traditional red rust of iron oxide that you'd see on an old car, it is still oxidized iron.
In the end, I was trying to say, your dust doesn't seen like any cast iron turnings because they are so fine and oxidizing as they leave the saw wire

Gotcha, makes sense. Thanks for dumbing it down and thanks for teaching me something new!