Also wanted toggle switches so it is user friendly for wearing welding gloves...
Unit in your link has small push buttons

 

Also wanted toggle switches so it is user friendly for wearing welding gloves...
Unit in your link has small push buttons

But you only have to set the speed one time. the rest is done with the toggle stitches, start- stop and direction. Page 9 of the driver manual shows what I mean.

 

The link to the stepper diver I gave shows the wiring. I'd personally use one of these for the step speed control -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PWM-Pulse-...519504?hash=item446e131150:g:wIsAAOSwhJJf23Ra Set the duty cycle at 50% and leave it there, because the driver is expecting a square wave type pulse, 50% on - 50% off. Then use the frequency to control the speed. The reason for using one like that is that the digital display will be the same every time, where a potentiometer is kind of a guess for each speed. You would then need two more switches for the driver both of them single pole single throw. One for clockwise and counter clockwise. The other for start stop. Use that and keep the stepper drive on all the time using another switch.

All of that said, is Drc correct? Are you welding length ways on a shaft? Or is this for a type of positioner/turn table to weld a shaft into a gear or some other thing? Doing that is pretty common but building up a shaft to allow it to be remachined is usually done free hand, or it was any where I worked over the years.



You also don't want to use the micro steps if you don't have too. And those speeds sound like they are for micro stepping. Micro stepping is more prone to losing it's place and then the motor will just rock back and forth.

Another common mistake is using the wrong voltage. Even though the motor may say, 5V at 2 amps, the important thing is the 2 amps. And you set the dip switches for that. But Voltage is or should be much higher than the motor name plate voltage, like a minimum of 3 or 4 times higher or even more. Stepper motors are current motors and setting the dip switces sets the output of the driver. More volts makes the steps more secure, less prone to losing the progression.

So looking at your link..... How do u connect it to the driver? See 2 pics

 

But you only have to set the speed one time. the rest is done with the toggle stitches, start- stop and direction. Page 9 of the driver manual shows what I mean.

I dont see the manual at all...also check other reply on asking how to connect to the driver?

 

What is the exact part number for the welder & weld head assembly?

What is the exact part number for the stepper motor? Including manufacturer?

What is the exact part number for the motor controller?

I once played a similar game of running a weld head along a rack and pinion track setup. We used stepper motors for all of the weld head travel and had several E-Stop buttons to comply with OSHA safety standards. We welded seams and also did "clad welding" on the inside diameter of cylinders, both ID and OD cladding using tungsten wire and several types of Inconel as I recall. Long time ago.

Ron

 

So looking at your link..... How do u connect it to the driver?

I dont see the manual at all...also check other reply on asking how to connect to the driver?

In the first picture the output is marked "pwm" and "gnd". The pwm is connected to the PUL+ in the second picture and the gnd goes to the PUL-. BUT you need to make sure your pulse module is also powered with 5volt, or use the resistors they tell you to in the driver manual.

The link to the driver manual is in post #10.

 

In the first picture the output is marked "pwm" and "gnd". The pwm is connected to the PUL+ in the second picture and the gnd goes to the PUL-. BUT you need to make sure your pulse module is also powered with 5volt, or use the resistors they tell you to in the driver manual.

The link to the driver manual is in post #10.

Thanks. sometimes the links dont show on my phone for some reason.
I ordered the device you showed in your post and will try that. I do need to be able to adjust speed based on shaft diameter so it is not just a set once and forget it....

on page 9 it shows 5-24 volt I have a 24v pwr supply so that is good to go, correct?

 

In the first picture the output is marked "pwm" and "gnd". The pwm is connected to the PUL+ in the second picture and the gnd goes to the PUL-. BUT you need to make sure your pulse module is also powered with 5volt, or use the resistors they tell you to in the driver manual.

The link to the driver manual is in post #10.

Thanks for the link to the manual....the actual part did not come with one!

 

I do need to be able to adjust speed based on shaft diameter so it is not just a set once and forget it....

When I said this pulse module was good because of the read out, I meant when you do say a 1 1/2" shaft, once you find the speed that works, the next time you have a shaft that size you just need to set the frequency to that number. Each diameter will be a different setting probably, but if you keep a little sheet with setting for diameter, it will make repeating easier than messing with a pot every time.

on page 9 it shows 5-24 volt I have a 24v pwr supply so that is good to go, correct?

That voltage is what goes to the stepper motor output The speed, direction, and on-off of the stepper need to be 5V and low amps. They go to opto-isolator, in the driver. And aren't connected to the motor or the driver it's self. The 5v for them and the pulse module can be a 5V wall wart, probably one from an old cell phone charger would work fine..

 

Thanks for the link to the manual....the actual part did not come with one!

That's the way the one I bought was, no paper work at all. Thank the Lord for the internet!

 

When I said this pulse module was good because of the read out, I meant when you do say a 1 1/2" shaft, once you find the speed that works, the next time you have a shaft that size you just need to set the frequency to that number. Each diameter will be a different setting probably, but if you keep a little sheet with setting for diameter, it will make repeating easier than messing with a pot every time.



That voltage is what goes to the stepper motor output The speed, direction, and on-off of the stepper need to be 5V and low amps. They go to opto-isolator, in the driver. And aren't connected to the motor or the driver it's self. The 5v for them and the pulse module can be a 5V wall wart, probably one from an old cell phone charger would work fine..

Got it... Thanks.... My current speed control has a 24v in and 5v output....
Ill have to pick something up once i get the new unit in..

 

Please reply to your thread when you get it working, to let people know it works.

Earlier I told you to stay away from the micro stepping of the driver. But don't think I really explained how to chose the pulse frequency. You know or can measure the pitch of your lead screw in the actuator. And You know the steps per revolution of you stepper motor, usually 200 steps in most motors. So if you divide the pitch distance(say for example, .100" for a ten per inch pitch) by the number of steps per revolution -
.100 / 200 = .0005" per step.

To let you know also I came from the same back round as you, just never owned a company. Was a tool and die maker for 50+ years, and still have a small hobby machine shop doing things for myself.

 

Attached is the linear acuator.... Again it did not come with any papees..... It has a 5mm pitch on the screw but i believe 200 steps based off of the 1.8 degree on the tag.

 

Attached is the linear acuator.... Again it did not come with any papees..... It has a 5mm pitch on the screw but i believe 200 steps based off of the 1.8 degree on the tag.

1.8 degrees is 200 steps per one revolution - 360 / 1.8 = 200

5mm / 25.4 = .19685" The 5mm is peak to peak on the screw, round off to .197", .197"/200 = .000985" round to .001" for each step of the motor.

 

1.8 degrees is 200 steps per one revolution - 360 / 1.8 = 200

5mm / 25.4 = .19685" The 5mm is peak to peak on the screw, round off to .197", .197"/200 = .000985" round to .001" for each step of the motor.

So i got my part in today.
So pwm=pul+
Gnd=pul-
V- =5v neg connection
V+ =5v positive.......
How do i control the direction?

 

Also how to start it.
The pwm did not have any paperwork either.
I have everything powered up but no movement

 

So i got my part in today.
So pwm=pul+
Gnd=pul-
V- =5v neg connection
V+ =5v positive.......
How do i control the direction?

I'll try to draw something up and post it here, if not today maybe tomorrow.

 

Here are the PDF manuals for both the stepper driver and the pulse generator. There are two manuals for the frequency generator one more detailed than the other so put them both here.

 

@Rlbooms Here is a very crude hand drawn circuit for you. I'll try to explain the direction and enable switches.

The direction is pretty simple with the switch ON the motor rotates one direction, and with it in the OFF position it goes the other direction.

The ENABLE switch will be the motors on - off switch. By using it you won't need to reselect all of the settings on the pulse generator , if you just want to look at how things are going while in use. If you use the main switch to the 5V power supply every thing on the pulse gen will need to be reset.

You will need to set up your pulse generator following the instructions from one of the PDF manuals I posted. Set the duty cycle at 50%, and I'd start out selecting the 1 to 999 as the frequency. All of how to do that is in the PDF's. The big thing is to watch both the polarity and voltage you use on this.



I'll try to answer any questions you have.

 

PWM is used in stepper control, but for an entirely different reason, micostepping. The coils can have say 128 different values of current, thus they can step between full steps. the current can be controlled via PWM.

So why do all the major stepper motor manufacturers technical information mention it is imperative to maintain the rated coil current throughout the rpm range.

QUOTE:
In most applications, electronic drivers control stepper motors. A pulse width modulation (PWM) technology is used to monitor the stator current and apply the proper voltage to achieve the desired current and torque.
When a motor is stationary, the driver only needs to use enough voltage to overcome the resistance of the stator coils (also known as motor phases).
This is described by Ohm’s law that calculates voltage as the current in amps multiplied by the resistance in ohms. If voltage increases, so does current, but if resistance increases, current reduces.

A PWM driver will increase the voltage applied to the stepper motor to keep the current and torque constant.
At some speed, the power supply will not have enough voltage, and the motor current will begin to fall.
The torque drops with the current. If using a higher voltage power supply, the dynamic torque remains flat to a higher speeD.
Max.