Some help w/ LED lighting for this clock.

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
Evening.
We all know there's a million options when it comes to LED lighting but can I get some ideas on what LED, type, lumens etc. to light up this clock?
Its 3" thick and hollow so I was just going to go around behind the clock face.

Do I just buy a 6' roll of led's?

There's a 120v plug right at the bottom, so I assume a 120v > 5v usb adapter?

And does anyone know what exactly the plastic piece is called that goes down the wall to hide the power wire? Like to hide A/v cables, speaker cables etc.
I've been in electronics/wiring etc for four decades but I just don't know jack about LED's. :confused:
Thank you much!
edit: I just noticed I took the shot at 12 on the dot, to the second. What are the odds?! hehh
 

geekoftheweek

Joined Oct 6, 2013
434
Looks like a good candidate for a strip of WS2812 or APA102. I had six APA102 built into some exterior lighting that lit up things enough to be able to make out basic shapes on a dark / cloudy / no moon sort of night. What exactly do you want the LEDs to do?
 

Irving

Joined Jan 30, 2016
763
What is the internal circumference where you would stick the LED strip? That's going to be the critical issue as Strip LEDs come in fixed lengths, typically minimum 30 or 50cm, eg these. These are 5v versions, just need a 5v USB wallwart and dimmer. You can get RGB versions which allow you to change colour with a suitable dimmer/controller. The rope-like neon type can be a bit bulky and tend to be longer fixed lengths. If you go for plain white use 'warm white'.

The plastic covering (search for mini-trunking/ducting/cable management) can be got at any DIY store.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,271
Wiremold is indeed a very fine product line, and has been used for many years. Most of their products are suitable for permanent installations and they are UL approved. Presently there are a lot of other products also available, many for temporary installations, with many different appearances.
For the clock, it is not clear to me just what the goal of adding LEDs is intended to achieve. So a more detailed description of the desired results will help in getting useful suggestions.
 

Irving

Joined Jan 30, 2016
763
That looks horrible clunky stuff... don't you have anything more discreet in the US? Here in UK MK and others provide nice discreet self-adhesive trunking 16mm (0.65") wide with a clip-on lid to run around skirting, doorframes, etc. Ideal for LV & AV cables.

1593606811822.png
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
11,386
Is the clock dial translucent/transparent?
Do you want to light indidividual numbers, just the perimeter of the dial, or the whole dial?
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,271
That looks horrible clunky stuff... don't you have anything more discreet in the US? Here in UK MK and others provide nice discreet self-adhesive trunking 16mm (0.65") wide with a clip-on lid to run around skirting, doorframes, etc. Ideal for LV & AV cables.

View attachment 211131
The original style WIREMOLD product is suitable for all places where metal electrical conduit would meet the code requirements. Totally fire proof and mechanically able to protect mains power wiring. Certainly the requirements for speaker cables are much less. So there are totally different kinds for different applications.
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
Looks like a good candidate for a strip of WS2812 or APA102. I had six APA102 built into some exterior lighting that lit up things enough to be able to make out basic shapes on a dark / cloudy / no moon sort of night. What exactly do you want the LEDs to do?
Thinking I just want a static, warmer white, not a blazing bright white that doesn't go with the walls. Just subtle but enough you can see in the day. Thanks!!!

What is the internal circumference where you would stick the LED strip? That's going to be the critical issue as Strip LEDs come in fixed lengths, typically minimum 30 or 50cm, eg these. These are 5v versions, just need a 5v USB wallwart and dimmer. You can get RGB versions which allow you to change colour with a suitable dimmer/controller. The rope-like neon type can be a bit bulky and tend to be longer fixed lengths. If you go for plain white use 'warm white'.

The plastic covering (search for mini-trunking/ducting/cable management) can be got at any DIY store.
Its 57" in circumference >( 60"), yes warm white, nothing blasting cold and bright, and no multi-color. Ahh the dimmer, forgot about that, TY! And thanks for the links. edit: that link under "eg these" look perfect!! Just would need to extend the power wire down the wall in the wire mold.;)
 
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Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
Wiremold is indeed a very fine product line, and has been used for many years. Most of their products are suitable for permanent installations and they are UL approved. Presently there are a lot of other products also available, many for temporary installations, with many different appearances.
For the clock, it is not clear to me just what the goal of adding LEDs is intended to achieve. So a more detailed description of the desired results will help in getting useful suggestions.
Wiremold, that looks perfect. Some width and low profile for a straight shot to the bottom where the plug is at.
The goal of adding the warm white's is so you can see it at night or when the room is really dim. Like a subtle white glow. Not cold, bright and not matching the walls. ;)

TY too!
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
Is the clock dial translucent/transparent?
Do you want to light indidividual numbers, just the perimeter of the dial, or the whole dial?
They aren't transparent. I'd like to light enough so numbers and hand dials can be seen when its dim. As you can see, its black.
That the black backing I painted, it was white. So might wanna repaint it off white for the led's.
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
That looks horrible clunky stuff... don't you have anything more discreet in the US? Here in UK MK and others provide nice discreet self-adhesive trunking 16mm (0.65") wide with a clip-on lid to run around skirting, doorframes, etc. Ideal for LV & AV cables.

View attachment 211131
That would work if I was running coax down the wall :p
but I only need to hide two 24 or 28ga leads. Thanks though, that square molding I can use in a new home theater room thats being built. ;)
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,271
That would work if I was running coax down the wall :p
but I only need to hide two 24 or 28ga leads. Thanks though, that square molding I can use in a new home theater room thats being built. ;)
I suggest hiding the small 5 volt supply inside the clock housing. No need for additional outside wires.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,271
Now the challenge of lighting the face of the clock remains. It may be that the face is solid and light can not pass through. In that case the lighting will need to be hidden around the perimeter of the face, and not very bright. So we need a much more complete description of the clock. If the face is translucent plastic then it will be simple, if it is paper over metal, quite a bit more effort will be needed. So we do need more information.
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
Now the challenge of lighting the face of the clock remains. It may be that the face is solid and light can not pass through. In that case the lighting will need to be hidden around the perimeter of the face, and not very bright. So we need a much more complete description of the clock. If the face is translucent plastic then it will be simple, if it is paper over metal, quite a bit more effort will be needed. So we do need more information.
I hope this clears it up ;)
The black section just shows that that surface is flush with the white.
So repaint the back plate white and a strip in circumference of LED's right behind the numbers, mounted to the black surface?
Again, from the numbers back, clock is hollow.

 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
6,271
OK, that is evidently a BIG clock, if that 3 inches for less than half of a number is correct. The first thing to try is to see if that black paint is opaque or if it will let some light through. If some light gets through then it is just a matter of installing enough LEDs to get as much light as you want. If it is opaque then you will need to replace it with something like automotive window tint spray, which looks very dark but it does let light through.

If you are able to remove the black paint then the material must be glass, so be careful.

A very big clock like that is an interesting project indeed.
 

Thread Starter

Ziggler

Joined Jun 2, 2019
18
OK, that is evidently a BIG clock, if that 3 inches for less than half of a number is correct. The first thing to try is to see if that black paint is opaque or if it will let some light through. If some light gets through then it is just a matter of installing enough LEDs to get as much light as you want. If it is opaque then you will need to replace it with something like automotive window tint spray, which looks very dark but it does let light through.

If you are able to remove the black paint then the material must be glass, so be careful.

A very big clock like that is an interesting project indeed.
Thanks for getting back on this. If I had no advice, I was just gonna ditch the idea so thank you. Yeah its 3" from the front of the glass to the (painted) back plastic. Its definitely not opaque, painted the back of the back plate flat black, so that still makes the insed shiney, like if it was gloss.

So would you go with the soft white led's where the green box is at with a black back like it is? Or do soft white led's where the red is with the back plate being white.

Or do you have another idea where to put the led's?
Thanks again!
 
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