Hi, Ron. The digital multimeter I ordered has finally arrived. It's a DT-830B.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Hh8RFPrVL.jpg

To which point should I be setting the dial to check out GFCI assembly?

ACV Range 200 but actually were you going to measure an unknown I would suggest 750 (Highest Range) and if you have a red & black lead the Black in Common and the Red in V right above the Common. Just measure across the outlet large and small slots. The probes should be long enough to make contact and make sure your fingers are clear of the metal of the probes. You check with the GFCI connected and powered up. The outlet I saw you post was a US standard 120 VAC outlet. You should see 120 VAC with the GFCI properly reset. If not you can gently remove the outlet from in the box and measure across the Line side which should be power in.

Ron

 

measure across the outlet large and small slots

BigRobot said he's not sure if the outlet is working. Hence, the need to check at the wires, and not the slots.

I would suggest 750

I didn't look close enough at the picture before. Yes, use the 750 ACV range for your initial test.

 

BigRobot said he's not sure if the outlet is working. Hence, the need to check at the wires, and not the slots.



I didn't look close enough at the picture before. Yes, use the 750 ACV range for your initial test.

I also suggested that:
"you should see 120 VAC with the GFCI properly reset. If not you can gently remove the outlet from in the box and measure across the Line side which should be power in".

Ron

 

Ron: Remember, he said he was not in the US. Many countries operate on 240 VAC household voltages.

 

Ron: Remember, he said he was not in the US. Many countries operate on 240 VAC household voltages.

Oh man, that's right. The only GFCI image posted was by Gopher who is in the US.
Note to self: Pay attention!
OK, reading the Line or input side of the GFCI you should read your line voltage for your location. If you have reset the unit and still see nothing on the output side I would remove and replace the unit. I have seen many in the US fail multiple times. Normally they mechanically fail open.

Thanks again Tony.

Ron

 

One I did a post mortem on was an "EATON" model. I contacted them and they said "Contact the store where you bought it." I contacted the store and they said "Contact the manufacture." So I cracked it open. Don't know what blew the chip, but it was blown. VISIBLY blown. Part of the body had been blown away. No knowing what else may have suffered from cascading failure. No idea if Q2 blew and took something with it OR if something went bad and took out Q2.

 

Ron: Remember, he said he was not in the US. Many countries operate on 240 VAC household voltages.

Not in USA, but we use 110 volts

 

Ron & Tony,
These tests you're advising -- I do them on the GFCI assembly while completely removed from wall/mains, yes? Because that's what I feel comfortable with --testing non-currently-mains-powered stuff.

 

Ron & Tony,
These tests you're advising -- I do them on the GFCI assembly while completely removed from wall/mains, yes? Because that's what I feel comfortable with --testing non-currently-mains-powered stuff.

OK, here is your option. You need to see if you have power to that outlet. I don't have a GFCI here to experiment with so I am not sure if you can ring it out doing a resistance check. If you know you have power to it and no power out then pretty obvious the GFCI is faulty. When my neighbor gets home from work this evening I can see if he has one left lying around I can ring out or maybe another member knows if you can do a resistance check with it disconnected from mains power. If you are not comfortable working with an energised outlet outside the box then do not!

Ron

 

I can't help but notice there are no wires connected to the terminal screws in your one pic you posted. Back stabbed gfic? Shouldn't be, but I don't see the wires into the terminal. If so, I've seen some outlet breaking connection when removing. I don't back stab for this reason.

If this is the case, power off, remove the back stabbed wires, and screw in the terminal screws the way it should be. Also, tape up all around so no danger of shorting as you push back into the tight spot.

Edit: Don't mean the traditional back stab. I know the wire can sometimes be connected underneath the tab (not seeing it in your picture, however.) Check to make sure it's in all the way and snug the screws or remove and check for corrosion.

You still need to make sure you're getting voltage per the previous posters.

 

Leave the wires connected, just pull the GFCI out far enough where you can touch your test leads to the screws. If you have power there but you don't have power in the slots then the GFCI is bad. Replace it. If you don't have power at the screws then the problem is not the GFCI, it's something else. And I can't diagnose it from here. Someone skilled and schooled on it will have to figure it out. It COULD be as simple as a loose wire nut, but I'd only be guessing.

It's time for you to do some testing and let us know what you find. If you still have questions then maybe this isn't the job for you to tackle.

 

Hi all. I went to Home Depot, GFCI AC outlet in hand. A nice employee tested it out; his multimeter registered less than one volt when he connected it to the mains. So we confirmed that it was dead. I bought a 15A GFCI one in the store for about $17. I was tempted to get the $2 non-gfci outlet but he persuaded me not to.

 

Problem solved. They fail and I have seen many that have.

Ron

 

A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) trips when there is leakage of current.

If your GFCI won’t reset after tripping, it could be because:

• There is no power supply to the receptacle
• GFCI has gone bad
• Wrong connection
• Power turned off by the circuit breaker.

But if the GFCI trips every time you reset it, there is a ground fault along the branch circuit. This will require a qualified electrician for troubleshooting and repairs.

 

Welcome denge to AAC. This thread has been resolved. But thank you for your input.