Soldering Iron fuse blow predicament.

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
35,018
That's what's in the manual I downloaded from manualslib.com.
There are different units.
There is a WTCP 51 for European 230VAC and the schematic is shown above.
There is also P51 power unit with 110/220 selector switch for US market, no schematic to be found.
 

Thread Starter

SeanV123

Joined Nov 12, 2020
124
There are different units.
There is a WTCP 51 for European 230VAC and the schematic is shown above.
There is also P51 power unit with 110/220 selector switch for US market, no schematic to be found.
I live in Ireland. The European unit works for me.
 

Thread Starter

SeanV123

Joined Nov 12, 2020
124
There are different units.
There is a WTCP 51 for European 230VAC and the schematic is shown above.
There is also P51 power unit with 110/220 selector switch for US market, no schematic to be found.
I believe it is the correct schematic
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
35,018
Important
Do not change the 110/220 voltage switch setting until you have taken a resistance measurement at the power prongs.
 

Thread Starter

SeanV123

Joined Nov 12, 2020
124
I believe I have found the solution. Since it is an old iron, the insulation on the wires for the iron were completely worn and broken down. They were shorting the circuit.
 

MrChips

Joined Oct 2, 2009
35,018
OP has already stated that the fuse doesn't blow if the iron isn't attached.
With no load on the step down transformer the setting of the 110/220 switch doesn't matter. The fuse should not blow.
If the switch is set to 110 the fuse should blow with the heater element load on the transformer.
 

MisterBill2

Joined Jan 23, 2018
27,998
I would certainly inspect the patch on the cable because it does not bulge enough to be an adequately insulated splice. The fuses were working perfectly in protecting against damage to other parts. A dmaged cable is the most likely problem and not that hard to repair.
Good luck!
 
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