He is referring to a switching voltage regulator- they utilize an inductor and switching circuitry to transform one voltage to another without large power loss.
More complex than a linear regulator by far, but more efficient. You can also find pre packaged switching regulators- look for "Integrated Switching Regulators"

 

He is referring to a switching voltage regulator- they utilize an inductor and switching circuitry to transform one voltage to another without large power loss.
More complex than a linear regulator by far, but more efficient. You can also find pre packaged switching regulators- look for "Integrated Switching Regulators"

Ok thanks Sensacell.

 

something like this


you can also use a booster they are cheap, so you only need one battery



Only problem is they cant deliver much current, probably less limitation on just 1.3v difference, but still not enough for your phone, but maybe just works.

There are other more powerful boosters too.

Actually such chargers are sold commercially, often using a single AA battery

 

Depending how complicated you wanted to get, I recently found the attached Application Report from TI on a Universal Car Charger system. You may be interested in the design on Page 10 using the TPS2540A. I know for a fact this part will be hard to incorporate without a printed circuit board

Basically what is happening is the 5VDC that is being produced/converted/generated from your method of choice is controlled by the TPS2504A to limit the current that is passed on to the device. The TPS2504A also auto detects the device connected and determines the method by which to handshake with the connected device so the device can charge at its maximum rate, whether it is applying specific voltages to D+ and D- for Apple devices or shorting D+ and D- for everything else.

 

Ok, thanks everyone.

 

You can get DC to DC converters really cheap on Ebay. Like takao said, they will better utilize the battery. A buck converter would work fine with your 7.4V battery, getting you about 50% more energy than a linear regulator.

Bob

 

How can the data pins on a "A Female USB" output two different voltages. I ordered all the stuff I need to do a test circuit for the USB Charger. I ordered my stuff from Mouser. I orderd a solderless breadboard from Amazon Prime. I ordered heat sinks designed for the TO-220 package IC's & Transsitors.

But what I don't understand..

http://www.voltaicsystems.com/blog/choosing-usb-pin-voltages-for-iphones-and-ipads/

Why does the White (D -) & Green (D +) Have two different voltages?

It says on that website that they're 2.75vdc & 2.0vdc..

I could use two more VLDO Voltage Regulators Designed to output those specific voltages, if that's the case, but I just don't understand how D(+) & D(-) can output two different voltages, if they're Positive & Negative..

k.. Just checked Mouser for a 2.0v LDO Voltage Regulator, and it seems they only have surface mount ones. They don't have TO-220 package ones.

So.. Resistor? I'd simply need a what resistance to give 2.0vdc & 2.75vdc for Data (+) & Data(-).

I want to make a good charger. If I can't make it work for a stupid iPhone, then at least it will work for my Android phone. That's really all I care about. I don't own any iPhone or Apple products, everything I own is either Microsoft or Android.

But.. I might as well try to make it work for iPhone too. But if I can't, it's fine.

 

The voltages are set by a voltage divider. To get 2V, for example, assuming you have 5V, you could use a 22K and a 33K resistor

However, if you are not intending on charging an iPhone, you should find out what your phone wants. If you have a AC based charger for your phone, just measure the voltage don the two pins and duplicate it.

Bob

 

Who said anything about making a lithium battery charger? He is talking about a USB power port powered by a lithium battery.

Bob

Charging an 8.4V lithium pack from a 5V USB supply, sort of implies that some extra circuitry might be involved.

 

You can use voltage divider(2 resistors) or you can use diodes to drop the voltage to required level.

 

I'm not charging the LiPo battery, I'm charging the Cellphone battery inside the cellphone threw a USB to micro USB.

As for the LiPo Battery, I thought about it when I went to go to bed. I'd like to use a cradle from VAPE3D to hold 2x 26650 batteries in parallel, then another VAPE3D cradle to hold another 2x 26650 batteries in parallel. Then hook the two cradles up in series, giving myself (Fullly Charged : 8.4vdc, Nominal : 7.4vdc, at 7,000mAh).


Lithium Manganese or LiMn (26650 @ 3,500mAh ea.) I use these in my Pure Copper Hades Mechanical Mod.

View attachment 74807

Is this better...?

Sorry - I read it the wrong way round.

Rechargeable battery charging efficiency is pretty low, so by the time you've got the initial charge to end up where you want it to go - there isn't much of it left.

The simplest way is an LDO linear regulator, but the power loss will be whatever current you draw multiplied by the voltage you have to drop.

I'd look for a surplus 11.1V lithium laptop pack and step it down with one of those cigar socket to USB adapters.

It might be possible to modify the internal SMPSU in one of those to work from your existing 8.4V battery, but there's no telling what chip is inside till you crack it open and look.

 

you dont need voltage regulators for the data pins you can drop the voltages with LEDs.

Simply measure with a component tester how much they drop

Sorry - I read it the wrong way round.

Rechargeable battery charging efficiency is pretty low, so by the time you've got the initial charge to end up where you want it to go - there isn't much of it left.

The simplest way is an LDO linear regulator, but the power loss will be whatever current you draw multiplied by the voltage you have to drop.

I'd look for a surplus 11.1V lithium laptop pack and step it down with one of those cigar socket to USB adapters.

It might be possible to modify the internal SMPSU in one of those to work from your existing 8.4V battery, but there's no telling what chip is inside till you crack it open and look.

The chips most likely wont care there are no special 12v car battery ICs to my knowledge.

 

you dont need voltage regulators for the data pins you can drop the voltages with LEDs.

Simply measure with a component tester how much they drop


The chips most likely wont care there are no special 12v car battery ICs to my knowledge.

Many chips have UVLO, usually mains PSU chips like the UC3842 etc, I forget the enable threshold, but they shut down if the steady Vcc drops below about 16V - I think the automotive ones from that chip family shut down around 9.5V. A large number of chips need enough voltage overhead for a 5V on chip reference generator - shouldn't be too big a problem running from 8.4V, unless the onboard regulator isn't LDO.

 

Many chips have UVLO, usually mains PSU chips like the UC3842 etc, I forget the enable threshold, but they shut down if the steady Vcc drops below about 16V - I think the automotive ones from that chip family shut down around 9.5V. A large number of chips need enough voltage overhead for a 5V on chip reference generator - shouldn't be too big a problem running from 8.4V, unless the onboard regulator isn't LDO.

the internal reference usually is fixed, 1.23v or something like that

 

Check both of this vids for more info...

 

the internal reference usually is fixed, 1.23v or something like that

Try reading some datasheets - its really not that hard.

 

Try reading some datasheets - its really not that hard.

Cant decipher the use of this post. "Some" datasheets?

 

Cant decipher the use of this post. "Some" datasheets?

That would certainly explain your confusion about SMPSU chip voltage references.

 

Ok, just about fed up with this project, even though I haven't received anything yet.. So I went and bought this on Amazon Prime. It will be here Thursday. This will allow me to use less 26650 Batteries to power my circuit, and if I read the specs properly, I'll be able to use only 1x MNKE or Efest 26650 (3,500mAh) Battery with this circuit, rated at 4.2vdc (3.7vdc Nominal). That means I can use 4 of these 26650 Batteries in Parallel and have my 7,000 or 14,000mAh Battery pack up in running, and I'll be able to put it into a Hammond Small Enlosure in a week or so.. But I haven't bought a Hammond Box Enclosure yet, so.. But here's the product. I still have my VLDO Voltage Regulators, Resistors on they're way still, and I guess my Solderless breadboard was delivered today from AMAZON PRIME. But I didn't know it, and here it is 2:09AM.. Tempted to go out and check for it, ... Yep.. Got my Solderless Breadboard today.
From Left to Right.. Got my package, took 24 hours with Amazon Prime, The Unpackaged Solderless Breadboard, The Step Up Voltage Regulator Module, The MNKE 26650 (3,500mAh ea.) Batteries.



Now I'm still waiting for my VAPE3D Battery Sleds, the VLDO Voltage Relator, Capacitors from Mouser, etc. etc. I'll upload photos when as I get the items. When I find out I can charge my Samsung Galaxy S3 with these components & modules, I'll do a really nice & clear video in 1080p @ 20Mbps on YouTube. Then I'll probably be one of the best videos on YouTube showing how to do this. I'm also going to see about charging an iPhone 5s. But if that doesn't work out with the amount of money I've invested in this project, I'm gonna just worry about my Samsung Galaxy S3. Then do an updated video when I get my Samsung Galaxy Note 4.

I see Anker sells an E5 16,000mAh charger.. Was tempted to buy it last night, but it's like $40, and they don't give you a 2A charger with it, only the 13,000mAh charger they do.. The charger is like another $12.99, so.. lol. If I can do this, I'll be able to buy some more 26650 batteries, or even upgrade to a nice hefty 7.4v or 3.7v LiPo from Hobby King.

Here's a Direct Link for the...

RioRand Mini DC Power Converter Step Up Module 3V to 5V 1A USB Charge for MP3/MP4/Phone

Specs..
Product Description
Feature:
Module Properties: non-isolated step-up module
Input voltage: DC 1-5V
It is better that the input voltage greater than 3V. if the input voltage too low, the module would generate the noises.
Output voltage: DC 5.1-5 .2 v
Output Current: Rated 1A-1.5A (single lithium input), the maximum 1.5A (single lithium input)
Efficiency: Up to 96% (the higher the input voltage, the higher the efficiency) Switching frequency: 500KHz Output ripple: 30mV (MAX) 20M bandwidth (input 4V output 5.1V 1A)
Voltage indication: LED lights with load (input voltage less than 2.7V LED
indicator off)
Operating Temperature: Industrial (-40°c to +85°c)
Full load temperature rise: 30°c
Load regulation: ± 1%
Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Short circuit protection: None (Please use the lithium battery with protection.) Input Reverse Polarity Protection: None
Connection: Welding
Input: IN + Postive, IN-Negative
Output: USB Output
Undervoltage instructions: when voltage below 2.7V, the load LED will not light up
Applications:
DIY a mobile power supply, only need one battery, you can output 5V voltage for your phone, MP3, MP4, PSP charger, very easy.
In order to power your electronic devices when your device needs 5V power supply, when you only have lithium battery, this module can be directly step-up to 5V, solve your problems.
Package Includes: 1x DC-DC Converter


Customer Review(s) : Only 1 Person Reviewed it.. But I saw this on eBay, and they said it was really good.

By M. Poole on May 5, 2014
Person Rated 5 Stars. ( * * * * * )
Verified Purchase
I had previously ordered a somewhat cheaper 5v stepup converter like this elsewhere and decided I might need a 2nd so I went ahead and ordered this one off Amazon. Glad I did! The other one I purchased wasn't able to handle the current I needed it to (4.2w-4.8w, so nearly the full 1A they were both rated for at times) and would overheat, whereas this RioRand unit is a champ. Doesn't even need a heat sink for moderately heavy usage. I'm running an Arduino Lilypad168 (older) and string of 25 ws2801 12mm LEDs (the IP67 rated ones also available here on Amazon) off of a 14500 Li-Ion (also bought those here, will post a review of those too, 2 batteries and a charger together, excellent deal) inside a 2xAA battery housing. The RioRand is just barely narrow enough to fit (at an angle of about 30 degrees) and powers the whole setup nonstop without trouble for hours - each 14500 gives me roughly 1 hour, but I've swapped them out nonstop on a rotation of "2 in the charger, 2 in my pocket carrying case" for several hours and stopped obsessively checking the power unit after the 3rd one went in fine and it still felt barely warm. Definitely the module I'll be using in future projects, as the cheaper ones end up not being cheaper in the long run with how many you have to go through to find a good one. Besides, this is still pretty inexpensive. Absolutely recommended.

 

Honestly.. I think this is cheating. I midas well just buy a car charger, take it apart, and solder wires to it to a battery pack of my choice.. I want to MAKE ONE.. Not buy someone elses work.. But.. How I figure it, even if I do, do that, I'll be able to have any number of batteries I want. THIS PROJECT WILL WORK, I have a Plan A, Plan B, & Plan C..

Plan C is buying a Car Charger, and taking it apart and hooking up my Batteries to that. then put it in a Hammond small enclosure. Plan A is VLDO Voltage Regulator, Plan B is the Above Buck Converter, or DC-DC Step up Convterter. I want to shoot for 1A output.. so.. all of these little components will get me my 1A output. 1A is nice.. Takes only 2h 6m to charger a 2.1Ah Samsung Galaxy S3 battery. Will take 3h 12m for a Galaxy Note 4 rated at 3,200mAh battery..

So.. I've never bought a Solderless breadboard before, and this is kinda my gift to myself for Christmas. I've always wanted to mess with Electronics, and make stuff.. I've learned alot so far starting with n-Channel MOSFETS, wich allows you to pass high current loads threw a momentary switch rated lower than the current you want to work with.. I learned that while learning how to make a Box Mod (VAPE).

But haven't built one. I will next year.

I've learned about what Capacitors do (Smooth Voltage Ripple). I've learned what Resistors do.. which I've kinda already knew what they did.. (Voltage Divede & Create Current). Learned about Liner Voltage Regulators, & LDO, VLDO, & ULDO Voltage Regulators. I also realized the type or name of the heat sink I needed to buy was based off it's package name (TO-220). I compleatly understand about them too.

I'm actually pretty smart now with a these components. I've actually learned to the point where I can now use a 120vac to 12vac Transformer to step down the mains power, use a Full wave bridge rectifier to turn the AC Signal into a DC signal (voltage). Use a nice large uF capacitor to smooth the ripple. etc. etc. then use a Liner voltage regulator to make the voltage whatever I want. etc.

Other than that, haven't really messed with anything else, like adjustable regulators, or adjustable resistors. etc.

I think this will be a good hobby for me, and a nice way to start the year 2015.