D'oh! Yes, pin 13.
The datasheet is very unhelpful with regard to the loudness circuit. I don't know if loudness circuits are still common on audio amps, but in auld lang syne they were. Essentially they provide a bit of frequency response shaping (some bass boost, but I don't remember details) that was intended to make music played a low volume sound more "true" and typically could be turned on and off with a switch on the front panel.
I have no idea if the resistor value is critical. It may be since 3.9k is slightly oddball, even if it is a standard E12 value. I'd try the closest available value on the high side as an experiment. There is no reason not to use a through hole part for the final fix as long as fits when the board is mounted.
Surface mount resistors are pretty robust, but is is possible to crack them without it being obvious. When they are numerically marked, you read the markings just as you did. Some are marked with a three character alphanumeric code that is essentially a sequence code, requiring a table to map the code to actual value. The trend, unfortunately, is to put no marking at all on surface mount resistors. Most SM ceramic caps have been unmarked for many years. I have seen a few with markings.
Anyway, happy to help. You did an excellent job with your original post by providing good photos, datasheet links and a good description of what you had tried. Sometimes when people ask for help it takes a dozen back and forth requests and replies to pry out the info you provided right at the start. Well done!
The datasheet is very unhelpful with regard to the loudness circuit. I don't know if loudness circuits are still common on audio amps, but in auld lang syne they were. Essentially they provide a bit of frequency response shaping (some bass boost, but I don't remember details) that was intended to make music played a low volume sound more "true" and typically could be turned on and off with a switch on the front panel.
I have no idea if the resistor value is critical. It may be since 3.9k is slightly oddball, even if it is a standard E12 value. I'd try the closest available value on the high side as an experiment. There is no reason not to use a through hole part for the final fix as long as fits when the board is mounted.
Surface mount resistors are pretty robust, but is is possible to crack them without it being obvious. When they are numerically marked, you read the markings just as you did. Some are marked with a three character alphanumeric code that is essentially a sequence code, requiring a table to map the code to actual value. The trend, unfortunately, is to put no marking at all on surface mount resistors. Most SM ceramic caps have been unmarked for many years. I have seen a few with markings.
Anyway, happy to help. You did an excellent job with your original post by providing good photos, datasheet links and a good description of what you had tried. Sometimes when people ask for help it takes a dozen back and forth requests and replies to pry out the info you provided right at the start. Well done!